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I have a ge electric dryer that won't do anything m=gtdp180edoww the thermostat, limit, and element ohm good i have 240v at the terminal block the light comes on when the door is opened , I'm leaning towards a bad timer just hate to replace it on a guess

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  • Expert
  • 311 Answers

If you have a wiring diagram,it may help.
RISKY: bypass the timer only for diagnostic reasons.

There may be a relay that controls the power to the elements and the drum.
Be sure the door swirch is not at fault.

Posted on Nov 12, 2014

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Illeagle
  • 525 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Electric Dryer Model LER8858EQ1 TYPE NO. 180-0

Based on the information that you provided, if you open the door in mid-cycle and the motor shuts off, but the element stays on, this will stop the air flow through the dryer and the element. The element temperature will rise drastically because it is not being cooled. Subsequently, to prevent a fire, the thermal fuse will open, shutting the element, and in some cases the motor, down.
A heating element gets its power from the timer, through the cycling thermostat(s),and to 1 side of the element.
When the motor starts, power is passed through the centrifugal switch in the motor, through the hi-limit thermostat and the thermal fuse to the other side of the element.
There is no ground wiring involved in the heat side of the dryer.
1. An element can stay on because it has broken and fell against the metal tube where it picks up a ground. Solution is to replace the element.
2. The centrifugal switch mounted on or in the motor can fail to open when the motor stops and allow current to flow through it
until the points in the timer open up, breaking the circuit.
Below is a link that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx

If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)

"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

Posted on Jun 23, 2008

MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: Hi, I have a electric LG

Sure, looks like the high limit is your problem, but why did it fail? If your vent is good as you say, the dryer should cycle on the operating thermo (thermistor sensor in this case), and the high limit should never trip. I'd replace the 6323EL2001B thermistor too (back side of the blower housing), along with the 6931EL3003D and the 6931EL3001E which are mounted on the element assembly. Non heating issues can also be caused by a bad relay on the board or a bad centrifical switch in the motor.

Posted on Oct 05, 2008

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110

If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.

Posted on Feb 05, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: LER8648LW0 Dryer. Not heating, runs continuously

One side of the element powers from the timer and the other side from the motor . Remove one wire from the element , and check which wire is not getting 120 V . Trace the wire NOT getting 120V and it will lead either to the timer or the motor , providing that the small t-stat looking piece (thermal cut-off) located close to the top of the heater box , shows continuity . If it does not , then pt # 3392519 is for it and the hi-limit t-stat . If you replace it , then replace both that come in the kit .

Posted on Jul 19, 2009

  • 2287 Answers

SOURCE: electric dryer won"t heat. Kenmore Heavy Duty 70

are you getting power down to the heater?why did you change all those other parts?you need to unplug the dryer,with a meter read out all the parts you changed out again but first make sure you have 240 volts coming to the machine,you can check it at the cord in the back,touch the white to the red,you should have 110 volts or 120,then go from the white to the black and you should have the same thing,if not the problem is in the house,if it's correct make sure you have power coming down to the heater,you could have a bad timer or a burnt wire,when you check the other parts unplug the dryer and whatever part you check at least one wire has to be removed,do this and you'll find your problem,if you did this first you wouldn't of bought all those parts.let me know what you find

Posted on Nov 05, 2010

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I have a kenmore 400 dryer model# 11069422801 . It os not producing heat. Will randomly work but for the most part not heating. I have replaced the heating element the thermal cut out , high limit...


These timers are crappy but easy to take apart. The leaf switches inside there get a burr on it and no heat; basically like filing points on a car. Smooth up the contacts put her back and see is what I would do.

Sep 29, 2012 | Dryers

1 Answer

Not Drying No Heat


Test for these first:
First of all, see if you have good voltage supply on the socket on which it is powered too.

(1) All venting is clear of lint, even disconnected from back of dryer.

(2) Breaker in house is not tripped. Cycle the breakers off and back on to make sure.

(3) Test continuity on all thermostats and thermal fuses, all have to measure 0 ohms when wires are disonnected and dryer unplugged. We tested the HiLimit Thermostat, Safety Thermostat, and Thermal fuse mounted to the heating element housing, all should have continuity. Also measure the two thermostats located near the exhaust duct in the rear of the dryer, get 0 ohms as well.

(4) Disconnect wires from heating elements. Test continuity from each terminal to the metal cage to make sure none of the elements were grounded. Good if theres no continuity there.

(5) Disconnect wires from heating elements. Test resistance between double coil and inner/outer coil. Each should measure around 19 ohms.

(6) Test the dryer temperature switch by removing wire from terminal 15, then took a reading between terminal 15 and terminal 16, should get 0 ohms there.

(7)Test the dryer timer by first setting the timer to 60 minutes. then remove the wire from terminal A. We then took a reading between terminal A and terminal B, and should get 0 ohms. then keet the leads on those two terminals and rotate the timer and had continuity throughout the 70 minute cycle.

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if you had heat in the dryer before you changed anything in the electrical box then i doubt very much it has anything to do with the dryer.if you have a meter you can check at the block where the cord connects to the dryer and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer before you start messing with the dryer

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Kenmore electric dryer model number 86860100 dryer not heating.....cleaned out vents not the problem....everything else seems to work.. I had seen in the past it glow in back of the dryer so I turned out...


hello there:
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element 8-12 OHMS

Jan 09, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

The dryer is not heating


Hello there here is a list of things to check
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse


Jan 09, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer works but no heat, have a multimeter but need to know how to use and what to test


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At terminal block in rear check voltage while plugged in. set meter to volts AC. each outside terminal to center should show 120 V approx. then together 240v. if 120 only on one side or one side significantly less than 120 then check outlet. Missing one phase/leg of supply can cause motor to run but no heat.

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Kitchenaid superba dryer won't heat Where is the heater fuse located?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse  - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out  - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity -  - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse
How to take apart information for Admiral, Norge, Magic Chef and Crosley

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1 Answer

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hi thanks for your question make sure you have 240 volts at dryyer dicconnect dryer from power source check for ohms at the element take one wire off and check at element there could be another thermostat that sometimes is missed because its on the heater housing at the top of housing check that the appliance doc

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2 Answers

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If the heating element read 0 ohms with the wires removed, you have an open heating element, (should be around 10 ohms) replace heating element and you should be ready to rock.

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1 Answer

Whirlpool LER5636EZ3 dryer won't heat


hi If it reads 0 hms yes thats te problem Thanks the appliance doc

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