Question about Dryers
If you have a wiring diagram,it may help.
RISKY: bypass the timer only for diagnostic reasons.
There may be a relay that controls the power to the elements and the drum.
Be sure the door swirch is not at fault.
Posted on Nov 12, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Based on the information that you provided, if you open the door in mid-cycle and the motor shuts off, but the element stays on, this will stop the air flow through the dryer and the element. The element temperature will rise drastically because it is not being cooled. Subsequently, to prevent a fire, the thermal fuse will open, shutting the element, and in some cases the motor, down.
A heating element gets its power from the timer, through the cycling thermostat(s),and to 1 side of the element.
When the motor starts, power is passed through the centrifugal switch in the motor, through the hi-limit thermostat and the thermal fuse to the other side of the element.
There is no ground wiring involved in the heat side of the dryer.
1. An element can stay on because it has broken and fell against the metal tube where it picks up a ground. Solution is to replace the element.
2. The centrifugal switch mounted on or in the motor can fail to open when the motor stops and allow current to flow through it
until the points in the timer open up, breaking the circuit.
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Posted on Jun 23, 2008
SOURCE: Hi, I have a electric LG
Sure, looks like the high limit is your problem, but why did it fail? If your vent is good as you say, the dryer should cycle on the operating thermo (thermistor sensor in this case), and the high limit should never trip. I'd replace the 6323EL2001B thermistor too (back side of the blower housing), along with the 6931EL3003D and the 6931EL3001E which are mounted on the element assembly. Non heating issues can also be caused by a bad relay on the board or a bad centrifical switch in the motor.
Posted on Oct 05, 2008
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110
If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.
Posted on Feb 05, 2009
One side of the element powers from the timer and the other side from the motor . Remove one wire from the element , and check which wire is not getting 120 V . Trace the wire NOT getting 120V and it will lead either to the timer or the motor , providing that the small t-stat looking piece (thermal cut-off) located close to the top of the heater box , shows continuity . If it does not , then pt # 3392519 is for it and the hi-limit t-stat . If you replace it , then replace both that come in the kit .
Posted on Jul 19, 2009
are you getting power down to the heater?why did you change all those other parts?you need to unplug the dryer,with a meter read out all the parts you changed out again but first make sure you have 240 volts coming to the machine,you can check it at the cord in the back,touch the white to the red,you should have 110 volts or 120,then go from the white to the black and you should have the same thing,if not the problem is in the house,if it's correct make sure you have power coming down to the heater,you could have a bad timer or a burnt wire,when you check the other parts unplug the dryer and whatever part you check at least one wire has to be removed,do this and you'll find your problem,if you did this first you wouldn't of bought all those parts.let me know what you find
Posted on Nov 05, 2010
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