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Which way do the connectors go on the control board?

We are putting in a new control board.

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Hello Verlaine;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
Please let me help you.
You received the new control board in a silver anti-magnet bag. Hopefully, you have not removed the control board without grounding yourself first. You ground your self by rubbing your hands over something that is steel. Static electricity will kill the board.
The connectors on a control board are proof. Each connector is designed to fit a specific plugin.
After you have located the control board, refrigerator unplugged,
Usually, a 10" x 8" cover plate on the back of your refrigerator.
Ok, you have removed the control board cover plate. You will see the control board is mounted on white pins. On these pins are 2 legs protruding. With one hand squeeze the first pin, Pushing the pin legs in. With the other hand pull the control board forward toward you. Go around the board until the board is free.
Systematically, with the new board, take one connector off the old board and put it one the new board. Repeat this until all of the connector are on the new board. Push the new board on the white pins to secure.
Why do you think your problem is a control board? Send me the model number of your refrigerator and tell me what the issue is.
The manufacturer recommends a surge protector. All appliances like you computer with control boards should have a surge protector. You can get individual wall socket surge protector at Lowes or Home Depot for about $15.00.

Posted on Nov 12, 2014


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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SOURCE: ribbon connector came off at the control board

You should be able to reconnect the ribbon. There should be a plastic piece that you push back away from where it connects. Re-insert the ribbon and then push the plastic piece into the connection. This plastic piece holds the connection tight. If it will not stay in after trying this, replace the ribbon. You can get one at for $9.30 + shipping. Good luck

Posted on Dec 15, 2009

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Why has my freezer--including the automatic ice maker, on a Kenmore Elite side-by-side fridge, suddenly shut down?

Hello Sherry;
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
1.) If the refrigerator shut down for 20-30 minutes:
Your refrigerator goes into a defrost cycle every 8-10 hours. The refrigerator shuts down for 20-30 minutes. At this time, you have a heater under your freezer cooling coils (Evaporator). The heater turns on and melts the frost off your cooling coils. Then the refrigerator turns back on. This is where you get the term; "Frost Free".
2.) If your refrigerator has shut down and is still shut down:
a.) If it shut down going into defrost - Some refrigerators have mechanical/electrical defrost timers that are easy to access and manually bring it out of defrost. Unfortunately, your refrigerator defrost cycle is built into your main control board.
b.) You main control board is bad. This is a primary electrical part. It is not a uncommon failure. The control board is about $85.00 and easily replaced.
I have faith in you Sherry, lets replace it:
1.) The new control board will come in a silver bag. This is a anti-static bag. Static electricity will not the board out. Ground your self by rubbing your hands on a steel object.
Move the refrigerator out to where you can freely stand behind it. Unplug the refrigerator. There is a metal cover plate about 10" x 12" on the back. Remove the screws and lift up. There are tabs on the bottom of this cover. Now, the control board in front of you is held in place by small white retaining pins. On each side of the pin is a small leg. With one hand squeeze these legs and the other hand pull the control board toward you to free the board from the leg. There are several pins around the board. Now that the board is free, take the new board, systematically going around the board one connector at a time. Remove one connector from the old board and connect it to the new board. Repeat this one connector at a time. Each connector at the top has a clip that you must squeeze to disconnect. Make sure on the new board you hear the connector click. Do not pull on the wires. The connectors are fool proof. The connectors are designed to only fit one connection size. Remount the board on the pins. put back cover on and plug in.

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1 Answer

How to install

Disconnect power.
Remove the access panel on the back of your refrigerator.
Remove all the connectors going to the board. They usually have a tab on one side that you need to squeeze/push in with your thumb and finger. Don't worry, all the connectors are keyed, so you won't be able to mix them up when you put them back on (unless you are a gorilla, or something).
Remove the main circuit board by finding the locking tabs holding it in place and using a screw driver to gently unlock them. You didn't mention which model you have, so if the board is held on by little white push-thru plastic pins, use needle nose pliers to "squish" the locking tab so you can pull the board off the plastic pins one at a time.
Make sure you take note of the orientation of the old board.
Then, just put your new board in and start hooking up the connectors. Don't worry if you see an empty connector, or two when you are done. The control boards are generic and made for many different models of refrigerators by the manufacturer.
After you have all the connectors in place, clean up your wire bundles so they won't get pinched, and then, put the back access panel back on.
Plug your refrigerator in, and your compressor should start running within a few minutes. If you haven't heard your compressor kick on in about a half an hour, re-check everything.
Good luck!

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God bless you2fcbbfc5-2ee4-4978-880f-2e14537a283b.gif

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Also check the Power Supply Unit (PU1)

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1. Remove the Upper Rear Cover.

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3. Remove five screws [1] and the

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