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Looks like a nice bike to ride everywhere and as an urban commuter I would love to ride it in traffic instead of using a road bike or commuter type. If you need more speed in town or want to compete, a road bike might be better. A mountain bike will probably last longer than a road bike under all driving conditions.
Generally you don't adjust suspension on motorcycles for the height of the rider. You make suspension adjustments for the weight of a rider by making it softer or firmer.
You can lower the front by moving forks up through the triple trees and the rear by using shorter shocks. But by doing this you are changing the steering geometry and suspension travel that has been designed for your bike.
If you already know how to ride a motorcycle you are better of working out a way to mount the bike with out lowering it. If you are learning how to ride, buy or borrow another bike until you have learnt the basics.
I have seen children racing motorcycles that use blocks or have people hold them up for the start.
Your problem sounds like the brake assembly inside the hub is bad. If you bought the bike recently, take it back to the retailer. For proper repairs for this problem, I suggest taking your bike to the local bike shop.
Either or a combination of both. Suspension set up, tyre pressure, wrong tyre size or type, style of riding???
Check your manual for suspension set up details and tyre pressures. Check out your steering head is tightened correctly. There are no leaks from your fork seals and if all is in order try ridind it differently (and safely) on bends.
If you have just got this bike recently, it could just be that this particular bike doesn't suit your style of riding. I have ridden bikes that don't "feel right" to me but other people have no problem with. Maybe let a friend test ride and see what they say.
A "hardtail" is a mountain bike that has a front suspension fork (like the one on the right) and no shock absorber in the back. Good hardtails are light, fast and responsive, and because of this they are good for climbing. Even the cheapest mountain bikes these days tend to have suspension forks. That's not necessarily a good thing, since most of the forks on cheap bikes are of poor quality and will probably need replacing before too long. The cheapest forks also tend to be sold only on new bikes, and not separately. Find out the make and model of the fork, and search around on the web for it. The price will give you an indication of the fork quality. Most decent bikes are sold with Rock Shox, Manitou, or Marzocchi. Marzocchi has been making forks longer than anyone and has probably the best reputation, but they tend to be expensive so you won't find them on anything but expensive bikes. Rock Shox and Manitou make lower-end (but reasonably good) forks. Other reputable brands such as Fox and Suntour make forks that may very well provide a good service life, but are not as well known for mountain bike forks. Replacement forks can be found at very low prices during sales and clearance events, so they can be upgraded later (sometimes at a bargain price). A "full suspension" bike has the front suspension fork and a rear suspension (like the bike on the right). These are highly recommended if you ride in a lot of rocks, as the rear suspension allows you to glide over rough terrain. They're also good for big jumps. The rear shock adds some complexity to the bike, and a good bit more weight at any give price point, plus there'll be a bit more maintenance. Plus, you'll pay a few hundred dollars more than a hardtail for a bike of otherwise equal components. Depending on your terrain, it might be worth it; riding a hardtail in big rocks can be brutal.
I hate to tell you this, but the forks on the bike you have do not have any adjustment available. Forks with Adjustments and the ability to disassemble to be able to "tune" the ride start in around $250- for the fork. As you ride, the mechanism inside your fork should break-in and give you more shock absorbtion and become easier to engage.
Other than replacement, there is no direct solution for your fork.
Yes, something isn't turning freely. It's either the front wheel, the back wheel, or the pedals and chain. Lift the bike off the ground and turn the front wheel by hand. If it doesn't turn very freely, it could be the hand-brake is dragging or the hub bearing is too tight. Try the back wheel in both directions. It should move freely in the forward direction. When rolling it backwards it is normal for the pedals to move too if this bike has a coaster brake (that is the kind of brake that is applied by pushing the pedals backwards.) It the back wheel moves forward freely, but backwards is a problem, then try the pedals by hand with the rear wheel off the ground. If this doesn't turn freely, the pedal crank bearing (a.k.a. bottom bracket) is too tight. Once you have identified the problem take it back to where you got it. It should be easy to fix, or they should replace it.
I cant help with tax disc, but I can help with the setting of the suspension. The ideal setting for the suspension is to set it so the front and back drop together. If the back is too stiff and the suspension compresses in a corner the front is more prone to breaking loose causing the worst kind of slide . If the front is too hard and the suspension drops in a corner the rear end is more prone to breaking loose. This is not as bad losing grip on the front end, but if word gets out nobody will ride with you as a passenger ever again. Set both front and rear shocks near maximum pressure. Now sitting on the bike with it loaded the way you intend to ride bounce on the seat causing the suspension to drop. Now bleed air out of the front or rear shocks until both the front end and back end of the bike drop together. This is your stiffest safe ride setting. If you start with no pressure in the system and add air until the bike drops with front and back in unison, this will be your softest safe riding setting. Riding single or double requires two different settings. This is how racers set up sport bikes for extreme riding.On a Goldwing you will only need the correct settings for extreme emergency conditions , but of course that is when it has to be predictable and it has to be right. Setting it up correctly will also make cornering through the hills much more enjoyable.