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The drum has a grinding noise when it turns. The inner drum does not move up or down in relation to the outer drum, could this be the bearings?

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  • Washing Mach... Master
  • 744 Answers

Hello Paul;


My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

I would like to help you, but I do not know your model number.
Open the machine door. There should be a label with the model number on it.

Resubmit your question with the model number and I will tell you how to fix your unit.

Posted on Nov 11, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: rear bearing noise when drum rotates

If the rear bearing is bad it will require the replacement of the entire rear tub shell. This is because the bearing is molded into the plastic and cannot be replaced separately (I know, its a stupid design). Sometimes additional damage can occur and the inner spin basket and front shell may also need replaced. In addition, what may seem like a bad rear bearing, might be a broken tub support on the spin basket. In a nutshell, you may have to replace both tub shells and spin basket at a minimum. With parts and labor the repairs could cost $600-$800. If you have no extended warranty or service plan coverage, it may not be worth the effort to repair due to the excessive cost. Sorry...I wish I had better news for you. I hopes this provides you with some answers.

Posted on Oct 06, 2007

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: Hotpoint bearing replacement

remove rear pulley and pull like crazy ..usually have to change rear shell bearing and seal are pressed in be sure to ck spindle on basket for scoring before reassembly if scored replace basket

Posted on Sep 27, 2008

SOURCE: suspect drum bearings

LG Direct Drive bearing replacement The following guide is written to help you assess if replacing the bearings is a job you can undertake and complete. This is not written to be specific to any particular direct drive model but it will help in all cases.
Must do's Before commencing work on an electrical appliance:
1) Unplug the appliance from the wall socket, ensure the appliance on/off switch is in the off position.
2) Turn off the inlet water at the isolation valves and disconnect the inlet hoses from the appliance.
3) Clear a space and plan where you are going to put items you remove from the appliance.
4) Have pen and paper handy for making notes, a digital camera is ideal for taking a picture of wiring connections for future reference (**PHOTO**)
Strip down 1) Remove the worktop by undoing 2 screws at the rear, slide backwards and lift off.
2) FROM THE BACK.....Remove the back panel (4 screws) giving access to the rear of the tub unit. Disconnect the wiring to the motor, thermostat and heater, disconnect earth wires, (**PHOTO**). The drum pulley, which is the ROTOR of the direct drive system has a single bolt to undo. Slacken this bolt a turn or two, DO not remove completely. Gently tap the bolt with a soft faced hammer or drift, this will assist in the removal of the Rotor. Remove the bolt and remove the rotor, careful as it has a series of magnets around its inner circumference. The stator of the direct drive system is now in front of you, there are 6 bolts holding it in place. Remove these and very carefully remove the stator without damaging it, its very expensive, look after it. Depending on your model there could be a spacer between the stator and the tub unit, if so remove this also.
3) FROM THE FRONT.....Open the filter door (left side of kick plate) if there is a small drain hose, remove stopper and drain off any water in there. There is 1 screw to remove which is at the side of the filter, then slide the kick plate sideways should release the plinth from the cabinet. Open the door, the seal clamp band that secures the door gasket to the cabinet should be removed. If the door seal has a further hose attached, remove it.
4) Read all of this paragraph, there are 2 versions.....Remove 3 screws holding the lower edge of the front panel to the cabinet. Remove the soap drawer, remove 2 screws in the control panel that secure the soap box, depending on model there could be a third in the lower right hand corner, if there is, remove it. If there isn't read on further.. Carefully slide the front panel downwards about 20mm and it will disengage from the cabinet, carefully look behind it and disconnect the door lock wiring to allow complete removal. If there was not a third screw (lower right hand corner of the control panel) then the control panel will have to be removed. From the top remove the clip retaining the hose that goes into the top of the tub unit, remove the clip holding the large hose on the left, slide the soap box backwards slightly and hang over the back of the cabinet, all the hoses still connected. To remove the control panel look under the top frame and release the two lugs whilst easing the panel away from the cabinet. disconnect the wiring and remove away completely.
5) From the bottom remove the sump hose from the tub, the screw that secures the pressure bottle to the tub. Remove the suspension pins from the top position of the legs and push the legs clear of the tub unit. The tub unit will now be hanging from the top springs. Using strong wire or rope, loop the hook of the spring, lift clear of the cabinet and lower the tub unit to the floor. Repeat this on the other spring which then allows the tub unit to be lifted through the front of the cabinet.
6) Place the tub unit door seal up, remove the screws that secure tub front 1/2 to the rear 1/2. This allows the inner drum to be removed, if its tight use soft faced hammer, DO NOT damage the drum shaft.
Inspect the drum shaft collar, the collar is located at the base of the shaft and is the surface that the oil seal mates to. Look for indents or circular ruts where the previous seal has worn the collar away
6a70_2.jpg if damaged you will need a new spider unit. Do not clean up using abrasive cloth, try the green pan scrubber from the kitchen instead. If damaged and you don't replace it the bearing replacement will fail prematurely as the oil seal fails to keep the wash water away.
There are several different kits, comprising of 2 bearings and 1 oil seal. To obtain the correct kit you will need the model number of your appliance, eg WM1480FHD or WM1485FHD or WM16225FD
all use bearing kit 1 available here other kits are available for other models including belt drives and washer dryers
The bearings can now be removed, the seats cleaned and made ready for the new bearings and water seal. A light cover of grease can be smeared on the inner edge of the seal.
7) There is a tub seal which fits in the recess between the front and rear 1/2's of the tub unit, it is adviseable to renew that seal before rebuild is commenced.
8) Rebuild is a reversal of the above, at every step double check electrical and hose connections and before you refit the cabinet front.
Hope you find this guide useful, some paragraphs can be applied to the belt drives also.

Posted on Oct 04, 2008

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Duet GHW9150P inner SS drum is actually loose but

go buy new washer the drum bearings have gone and it really is not worth repairing . it can be repaired but always found that it never lasts long once done.

Posted on Jul 07, 2009

beltronic205
  • 1456 Answers

SOURCE: loud noise during spin

Sounds like drum bearings gone..Quite expesive repair

Posted on Oct 03, 2009

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1 Answer

I have a kenmore frontloading washer, during the spin cycle a noise like grinding can be heard, grinding can also be heard when turning drum by hand...help


its the drum bearings that support the inner drum,you need to replace these bearings,the problem with this is it was manufactured by frigidaire for kenmore and you cant just buy the inner bearing and lip seal as it comes with the outer rear half of the outer.tub where as with maytag neptune or whirlpool duet you can drive these bearin gs out and re-use the tub half,but you can't buy just the bearings and seal for a frigidaire front loader

Aug 31, 2012 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

CLUNKING NOISE AS DRUM GOES ROUND


I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. The problem you describe is almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.


If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:


A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)


You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.


The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.


This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Aug 23, 2011 | Hotpoint Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washing machine is banging when washing....sounds like the bearings,can i fix it?


I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. If problem you describe is the main bearing on the drum being worn out, (allowing the inner drum to "flop about").

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.


If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:


A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)


You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.


The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.


This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Aug 03, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

The tub is loose


I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. The problem you describe is almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.


If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:


A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)


You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.


The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.


This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Jul 29, 2011 | Frigidaire GLTF1240A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My duet whirpool washe makes loud noise when washing i checked the inner drum and it seams to be out of balance


I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. The problem you describe is almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.


If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:


A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)


You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.


The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.


This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Jul 22, 2011 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Admiral aav7000aww, 5 years old. For last week, makes grinding noise during spin. Full or empty, same noise, but louder with load. Not a balancing issue. When it stops spinning, it stops too quickly.


I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. The problem you describe is almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.


If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:


A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)


You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.


The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.


This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Jul 08, 2011 | Maytag Washing Machines

1 Answer

Drum floppingfrankhenderson90@gmail.com


I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. Taking the two words you have given as a problem statement, the problem is almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.


If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:


A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)


You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.


The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.


This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about ?£20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Jul 07, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

When it spins, the washer makes a loud noise. it rattles. Also when it is doing the rinse cycle I can hear a vibration/rattling noise.


I'm sorry to say that tis is potentially very bad news. the problem you describe is almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".
To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.
The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. If the bearings are bad enough then symptoms will typically include:
A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and or hitting the outer drum)
You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins
The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open
A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is the result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear

Jul 07, 2011 | Maytag Washing Machines

1 Answer

The drum is getting very tight as if it is stuck especially when one uses the spinning


This is potentially very bad news I'm afraid. Beyond failed bearings, there are very few reasons for the drum to become tight.


To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.
The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. Other symptoms of bearing failure will typically include:
A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings)
You will have become aware of the spine cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins
The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open
A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is the result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear

Jul 05, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

I HAVE JUST FITTED MY NEW DRIVE BELT ON MY HOOVER WASHING MACHINE HSE130M AND IT KEEPS ON SLIPPING OFF?


This is potentially very bad news I'm afraid. There are very few reasons for a belt to come off. Presuming that you are convinced it is the right size (and it probably is) Then there is a fair chance that the belt is coming off because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum (and therefore the large drive wheel on the back) to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drup up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. If the bearings are bad enough to allow the belt to dislodge then symptoms will typically include:

A clonking noise as you lift and releas the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings
You will have become aware of the spine cycle becoming far noisier recently and pissibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins
The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open
A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is the result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal ar the rear

Jul 04, 2011 | Hoover HF130E Front Load Washer

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