Can you confirm that C6065F1324:2 AIR PRESSURE SWITCH is recognised alternative to C6052A1007

Sure it's a boiler not a furnace
if so air pressure may mean draft indusor is not leting out the flue gases may be blocked
if not blocked may have something in the tube or switch is bad would need more info to give correct answer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/vincent_f7b7c5f4dedd2565

Check the induced draft pressure switch's tubing that connects it to the induced drat assembly, the barbed port that the tubing connects to gets clogged requiring reaming annually or this will happen, if this does not work replace the switch, make sure to clear the port.

Check the induced draft pressure switch's tubing that connects it to the induced drat assembly, the barbed port that the tubing connects to gets clogged requiring reaming annually or this will happen, if this does not work replace the switch, make sure to clear the port.

It sounds like your thermostat could be the problem. Have you noticed the boiler cutting off at all, or does it run continuously until it goes out on low water?

You stated, "when boiler is on", so I am wondering how you get the boiler on. If your boiler is controlled by a thermostat, you need to check it for a cold draft possibly from behind the thermostat in the wall where the wires come through. The thermostat should never be on an outside wall. The thermostat could be defective.

An aquastat can also control your boiler. If you have an aquastat, check the setting, typically 175 - 180 degrees. You should also have a "high limit" which should be set at 210 - 220. Some people run that high side limit higher; not a good idea - defeats the purpose. If the aquastat is set too high, the boiler will operate too hot and the problem you have will occur.

"pressure rises and pressure relief valve opens" This could mean that your pressure switch is prematurely venting. Check boiler temperature to see exactly at what temperature the T&P valve purges. If it blows off below the high side setting, either adjust or replace. The T&P valves are usually not adjustable. That blow off temperature is stamped on the head of the valve. So, if it discharges too soon, replace it.

Have you actually seen evidence thgat the T&P valve is opening? You may have a bad bladder in your expansion tank and your system may have air in it. Your boiler should have 12 psi when cold and 20 - 22 psi when operating. Check your boiler pressure guage.

"this eventually drops below the minimum operating pressure" Technically, there is set point for a NO MINIMUM OPERATING PRESSURE. That is a function of the amount of water in the boiler. If the T&P is blowing off, it will vent water from the boiler and the boiler pressure will go down. There is a minimum operating TEMPERATURE.

Your boiler could be low on water. You will have to manually fill the boiler. Be careful of thermal shock to the boiler. Feel the piping, and fill only when the circulator is running. Make sure the water is not going directly into the boiler. The supply water should go into the circulating supply side which feeds the radiators, radiant floor, or base board circuits.

All this will adversely affect your hot water. The heat exchanger for the potable hot water may have scale build up in it. Using the hot water keeps the boiler running, and a scaled heat exchanger will give you cooler hot water and the boiler keeps running. If this is a problem, you will need to replace the heat exchanger. A better idea is to not use the boiler for your domestic hot water. Why run the boiler in the summer?

Pull the hose off to the pressure switch, and measure the pressure while in a call for heat with a manometer... check the pressure switch rating & compare. Make sure you don't have any down drafts...a high wind cap might be needed. Also make sure the chimney termination is 2 foot above any pitch that is within 10 feet.

its the air pressure switch. needs replacing. they are quite cheap but it could be something a little more expensive but you wont know until you replace it. easy half hour fix

Hi the temperature control on the boiler should start the boiler as soon as you restore power to it. I don't know if you have a automatic ignition module or a standing pilot. If it is a standing pilot, make sure it is lite.You should have a temperature gauge telling you the water temp., and if it was off all day I am sure it is very cool. Do you have a drain valve on the front bottom of this boiler? If so, and you have a floor drain, turn it on as you may have gotten air in the system causing it not to fire up. If not, open all outside hose bibs/faucets and indoor faucets and let them run for awhile. If the water was drained out from the boiler to repair this tap, its off on its low pressure shut off switch. This is a safety. After bleeding any dirt or air from the system, make sure that you hear the boiler filling up with water. Once it reaches its low pressure cut off, it will fire up and start to heat the water. I don't know how large it is, but it may take some time to reach its cut out switch before it will fire again. Please keep me posted in the comment box. Please rate me on my help to you, and I thank you for this.
Sincerely, Shastalaker7
A/C, & Heating Contractor

its the air pressure switch

you need a primary pressure switch

Hi I am thinking what your tryig to say is the air pressure switch?
you can check this switch to see if the boiler works by removing one of the sensing tubes from it & by sucking on or blowing as this willactivate the switch you dont have to do it very hard, just gently as you will hear the switch clicking, if the boiler does fire when you click, in order for it to continue to ignite you may have to fold over the tube, when you release it the boiler should stop.if it does work then you will have to change the air pressure switch, but remember this can only be done by a Corgi Engineer

Kindly

Richie