Blown capacitor but....

unplugged with nO power cord connected,,after checking for any internal blown fuses, inspect circuit board for burnt resistors or blown caps, the resistors will appear to be laying on there sides and have multi colored bands around them look for burnt or discolored ones, blown capacitors will look like tiny barrels with lids a flat top indicates a good capacitor as any humped or bulged or rounded top would indicate blown cap , if not more than a couple you may be able to replace these with success, be careful always Unplug from power before servicing electronic componants.

hi caps don't have to be swollen to be fault that blinking light means you have no 5 volt standby, you need to check diodes capacitors transistors resistors may be best to look for a tech in your area, hope you get it working

regards
shaun

Given how long ago you asked this question, my answer is probably no longer relevant. I just recently had the same problem on a Polar Mohr 92-ECM; out of spec cap and burned open resistor. Though I don't think there's much of a chance of finding the original Bosch part, the fix was easy. Allied Electronics has a suitable replacement by Illinois Capacitor: http://www.alliedelec.com/illinois-capacitor-inc-224ppa202k/70112118/
Note that this is a 0.22uf, 2,000 VDC (630VAC) cap. It will work fine.
For the resistor: http://www.alliedelec.com/te-connectivity-rox2sj47r/70063648/
This is a metal oxide film resistor, rated 2-watt and will not cause as much board damage if it fails - which is unlikely.

If you really want to match the original value of 0.25uf, you may add three or four 0.01uf caps in parallel, making an "array". The 0.01uf caps have a 3,000VDC rating, which is perfectly fine. They are available at Newark Electronics: http://www.newark.com/illinois-capacitor/103ppa302k/capacitor-polypropylene-pp-film/dp/30K6560

The capacitors are polypropylene film rather than electrolytic, but they are snubber caps, rated for the purpose and will work just fine (and will probably last longer as well).

I hope this helps.

Replace the blown capacitors with new caps with the same value and voltage rating. These caps will be polarize caps and need to be inserted on the motherboard in the correct orientation.

replacing the 10V caps with 25V caps is perfectly fine. In fact, if it was manufactured like that, those caps may not have blown.
Replacing a 680uF with a 1000uF could be problematic depending on it's function.
680uF is pretty specific when 500uF and 1000uF are much more common and therefore cheaper - one would think that the engineers would have tried using those in the design rather than a 680uF - makes me think the value of the cap is important to the frequency of the circuit it's in.
Other concerns might be whether he got any of them in backwards or not.
That's a rookie mistake, but still an easy enough one to make (for a rookie).
Also, with that many swollen caps, I wonder if there were any that leaked out the bottom before swelling at the top (IE - if some caps were missed in the replacement procedure)
Also, with that large a number of caps gone, other components may have been compromised or blown.
I'd be testing the transistors around those caps (most likely punched through rather than open), looking for fusible links (surface mount fuses, 0 OHM resistors) that may have opened up etc.
The initial attack on the problem was basically correct, and in many cases probably would have fixed it (if say the 680uF cap was functioning as a ripple filter).
But when that didn't fix it, a deeper analysis should have been done to complete the repair (including locating a 680uF cap).

I am seeing many of these 9417-Hx7 IBM with the 3 820uF caps bulging. Almost always the inverter driver FETs are shorted, and cause burn marks on the plastic cover. Sometimes the zener protection diode is also shorted. Ohm meter will show how many are shorted and need replaced.
Monitor Mike

The caps will bleed off within a few minutes of being unplugged. I don't know which caps and resistors he was telling you about but here goes.
Typically along with the convergence IC's the output resistors under the heat sink are at least checked with a multimeter. They are large resistors and should match their color code markings. The caps are probably the caps in the hyper module (hyper board)
Here is a very good tutorial to do this repair or get it done: http://www.dshosu.com/how-to-fix-toshiba-rear-projection-hdtv-wavy-lines/

hi isolate ur power unit out replece ur resisitor & every other burnt items then check the schottky diodes in the secondary side &the electrolytic capacitors if bulgge or leak. if all this are ok , power then use voltmeter to test ur output voltages if ok , unplug your inverter  & power

I followed instructions posted at
http://vassfamily.net/projects/DMRE85H/dmre85h.html
and I opened the unit.
I unscrewed 3 black screw on back, removed two side covers, then I unscrewed 4 silver screws (2 & 2) on both sides and removed the top cover. Then I unscrewed 4 screws (those four screws that hold the silver hlder on the board - they are down, so you need to use long screwdriver.
Carefully moving & holding HDD in the silver holder (moving it only little bit up from the board to see underneath on the board), and I was able to see 2 blown capacitors (with brown stain on top). They are C1261 & C1260 caps - ELNA 680uF RJF 10V.
I did not attempt to remove silver holder with HDD totally now.
In reverse order, I screwed everything back.
I ordered parts at www.panasonic.com support page for model SC-HT1500, then choosing SA-HT1500 - Main Unit. I found those 2 same capacitors; they cost $1.89 each. Shipping & tax came higher than price of parts. I
I already have soldering iron, and I will try to replace blown capacitors by myself after receiving ordered parts.
I will post my next message after receiving parts - approx. in a week or so.

One of the previous posts is correct. There was a problem with Electolytic capacitors about 4-5 years ago, which is suppose to be fix now. Many companies tried to get in the business, but did not have the proper formula for them. This left the caps unstable. The caps could last for a week or for years before failing. This affected a lot of electronics from the high priced models to the cheaper. My computer at work (a Dell) and at home had the same problem. There is not a way to tell if a cap is from a bad lot, although there probably a list somewhere. When I'm fixing one I replace all the caps that are from the same manufacturer and same value as the blown one.

One day at work I saw a CyberHome 300 in the recycle bin (someone probably brought it in to fix it and failed). I pulled it out and of course it would not power up. Knowing about the cap problem, I opened it up and sure enough 2 caps were "pillowed" on the top. When a electrolytic blows it may vent out the top creating a noticeable bulge on the top. Replacing the two caps, the unit works great. If you'd like to know more email me at [email protected]