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Bake and broil isn't working. Traced power to the elements and they are getting power. Could it be something that is stopping the elements from working other than bad elements.

The switch closes and the door locks in self clean mode but the elements are not heating up.

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It would be very rare for both elements to be bad at the same time. Many times there is a thermal fuse in the circuit that will shut off one side of the power to the elements. This would prevent the elements from energizing in regular bake and broil as well as self clean. If it is only in self clean then there is a swicth possibly in the latch that is preventing the self clean from working.

Posted on Nov 15, 2014

Testimonial: "both sides of the elements are getting 120v. Are they supposed to have 240v going to each side or 120v per side totaling 240v. could it still be the thermal fuse?"

  • 3 more comments 
  • lori guerrero
    lori guerrero Nov 15, 2014

    both sides of the elements are getting 120v. Are they supposed to have 240v going to each side or 120v per side totaling 240v. could it still be the thermal fuse?"

  • Ty Roshdy Nov 15, 2014

    There is a good chance that there is a thermal fuse if a Whirlpool or Kitchenaid product this would be located on the back of the oven. If a GE product then there is a relay on the control board that could be bad. This would require a new control board. Other brands could have a thermal fuse possibly under the top panel.

  • lori guerrero
    lori guerrero Nov 15, 2014

    how about a kenmore

  • lori guerrero
    lori guerrero Nov 15, 2014

    i didn't see a fuse on the wiring diagram

  • Ty Roshdy Nov 15, 2014

    It could be a common relay on the control board. This is fairly common that the control board has a common relay that closes when either the bake or broil is energized. Look on the control board and if there are three or more relays then this is likely what you have.

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SOURCE: Amana Convection Wall Oven Model AOCS3040 Does Not Heat in any Mode

sure its possible, sounds like you've blown an over limit thermostat behind stove, gets too hot and for safety reasons cuts off unit untill replaced

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SOURCE: dacor oven ECPS127S will not heat after self clean

the problem was fixed by opening the panel between the oven cavity and the touch panel just behinf the door. you can look through the grill but to trip the reset you must unscrew the panel. you will find the reset back behind the wires Looks a red button nestled on top not very open but it should be there> i do have to say i found a step by step description on this site. but right now i can't tell you who exactly he was.

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SOURCE: Heating element on upper oven of a wall Thermador Oven

The control switch may be bad on it. If there are 2 elements on the top, they both are not bad at the same time.Check to see if the wires have not burned off the control switch first. Check to see if your breakers are O.K. Turn them both(maybe 3) off and then reset.

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

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SOURCE: My Dacor wont heat, broil or convection after self cleaning

like another person stated-from the front behind the door, take off the 6 screws and the cover by the latch. there is an "oven hi temp limit switch" It is crome with 2 heavy black wires connected to it. On the back side of this is a small red button which will reset the limit switch. I had the same issue (everything worked except the any of the heating elements) and quickly resolved.

Posted on Jan 10, 2011

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SOURCE: Thermador double oven / Bake wont work /FC code flashed once

I found I have this exact problem. Same bake preheat issue: I can bake if I set broil first. However, the oven doesn't work if I press bake first. The control board has already been replaced a couple times over the years. Is this another replacement??

Posted on Feb 03, 2011

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3.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

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If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


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Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

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