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I have a mcbr1020w 10.0 frig. will not come on. just replaced the start device.

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What does it mean "does not come on"?
Is it not cooling despite the compressor is running (in this case cooling liquid is lost), or is the compressor not running (nothing to hear, in this case the thermostat is defective) or may be when you open the door, there is no light inside (then the refrigurator has no power).
So check light (no, power is missing)
Check compressor(nothing to hear, thermostat is defective)
Compressor is running (to hear, cooling liquid lost)
The replaced start device you can check by using a bridge (cable with two clamps) between the contacts, but please do that only when you are familiar with electricity, it's not without danger. At best ask an electrician for help.

Posted on Nov 09, 2014


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Replaced the run capacitor and overload relay. Worked for one day and stopped cooling. Frig still runs and clicks off and on. Both freezer and frig cool.

If the compressor is humming and clicking on and off on its overload relay, it would normally be a faulty relay and or the overtemp device. As you have already replaced these, it could be that the compressor has failed. It can happen if the compressor has continually been trying to start. Its probably got very hot and cooked the windings. On most fridges these days, its often not much more expensive to buy a new fridge.

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Part 2 when it tries to start i hear a click coming from the overload-start capacitor side of compressor. fan is working.

check the capacitor overload protector and starting relay if they are all good, if one of them is found not functioning replace it. with new accessory installed , plug in the unit. if still you hear a click and compressor don't start , replace it . before you start anything on the unit be sure you know what you're doing. if in doubt call the experts.thanks,

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I have a GSL25JFPA BS that the frig side will not cool properly. Repalced the mother board. t stat in freezer and thermistor in frig. Freezer works fine. Damper will open when first plugged in but closes...

Unplug the refrigerator and then plug back in. Using multimeter check between J3-1 and J3-4.
Must be done within 10 seconds of starting. You should have 6 VDC. If you do replace damper, if not replace motherboard.

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Compressor does not want to start.

If the compressor will not kick on what you have is either a bad compressor or a bad starting device. Generally the unit will try and start and after 8 seconds or so you will hear a loud tick. That indicates the relay is bad. If the compressor is bad it will usually make a loud humming noise.

The start device is plugged into the side of the compressor. Unplug the frig. You can simply take off the wires to the start device (remember where they go!!!!!) and pull it off. You have two piece, the overload and the relay. The relay is the piece that is most likely the problem. Some machines will have these put together in a white plastic block. You can shake this entire piece and if you hear loud rattling it is broken. Sometimes the relay is visibly burned and blacked where it plugs into the compressor. Anyway, if you do not have this white plastic relay/overload combo, the relay is a brown square shaped plastic piece. Shake it and see if you hear rattling. If not, chances are very good the relay is ok, and the compressor is locked up.

Compressor changes are expensive and unless the frig is extremely nice and cost a pretty penny, they aren't worth fixing. Relays and overloads should not break $100 for the parts, and any tech should be able to change one in under 10 minutes. So if it's a relay fix that puppy! good luck :D

P.S. In a RARE occasion the frig may use a capacitor, and the capacitor may be bad. The only way to check is with a multimeter or replace the capacitor and see if it fixed it. This is highly unlikely and therefore not checking from the beginning.

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My MCBR1020W 10 cu ft top mount freezer/refrigerator is not cooling correctly. It is -20 degrees in the top and 60 degrees in the bottom. This is a new item.

It is a cheap piece of junk. I bought one just this week and the defrost timer gets stuck so it's going back...........

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MCBR1020W, 10cf., new fall 2009, defrost stops working

Good day,
You have an unlimited warranty for the first 12 months, and are entitled to a proper repair.
Could be a factory defect.
My advice is get hard nosed with them. The people you are dealing with did not design the machine but are responsible to correct or research or worst case scenario replace the machine.
The factory will eventually compensate them.

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1 Answer

Kenmore refrigerator w/warm frig and ok freezer

if there is a warranty it will only be for the seal system. The nois could have been from the ice maker with the plastic raped around it, but I think it could be the start device on the compressor.
Im the owner of a appliance service company and we charge $60.00 to come out and i have heard that others charge more. as far as the freezer being ok, I would put a thermomiter in their and check the temp and make sure its about 0 to 10 Deg F.

the small air flow into the freshfood area is normal.

My bet is still the start device on the compressor.

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