Question about Kenmore Elite Side By Side Refrigerator - White
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
1.) If the refrigerator shut down for 20-30 minutes:
Your refrigerator goes into a defrost cycle every 8-10 hours. The refrigerator shuts down for 20-30 minutes. At this time, you have a heater under your freezer cooling coils (Evaporator). The heater turns on and melts the frost off your cooling coils. Then the refrigerator turns back on. This is where you get the term; "Frost Free".
2.) If your refrigerator has shut down and is still shut down:
a.) If it shut down going into defrost - Some refrigerators have mechanical/electrical defrost timers that are easy to access and manually bring it out of defrost. Unfortunately, your refrigerator defrost cycle is built into your main control board.
b.) You main control board is bad. This is a primary electrical part. It is not a uncommon failure. The control board is about $85.00 and easily replaced.
I have faith in you Sherry, lets replace it:
1.) The new control board will come in a silver bag. This is a anti-static bag. Static electricity will not the board out. Ground your self by rubbing your hands on a steel object.
Move the refrigerator out to where you can freely stand behind it. Unplug the refrigerator. There is a metal cover plate about 10" x 12" on the back. Remove the screws and lift up. There are tabs on the bottom of this cover. Now, the control board in front of you is held in place by small white retaining pins. On each side of the pin is a small leg. With one hand squeeze these legs and the other hand pull the control board toward you to free the board from the leg. There are several pins around the board. Now that the board is free, take the new board, systematically going around the board one connector at a time. Remove one connector from the old board and connect it to the new board. Repeat this one connector at a time. Each connector at the top has a clip that you must squeeze to disconnect. Make sure on the new board you hear the connector click. Do not pull on the wires. The connectors are fool proof. The connectors are designed to only fit one connection size. Remount the board on the pins. put back cover on and plug in.
Posted on Nov 09, 2014
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It'll cost around $65.00 to take care of this problem. The problem is the water inlet valve. The part number is 4389177 and can be picked up at your local appliance parts retailer or you can get one online maybe for a better price (just plug the part number into your favorite search engine).
Here's what's happening... The valve I mentioned is actually a "dual coil" unit. One coil supplies the cold water, the other feeds the ice maker. These "coils" are independant of each other, so one coil can fail and the other can keep on truckin', no problem. But what you have is an Ice Maker coil/valve that is weak and it's allowing water to bypass.
Basically the IM valve isn't closing shut completely. Imagine a dripping faucet... that's what it's like except you can't hear the drops, you can only see the results. Imagine drop by drop rising up that tube behind the fridge and into the IM. One drop at a time. These drops of water go into the freezer compartment through the IM fill tube. Now when these little ***** drops slide down the fill tube inside the freezer compartment they flash freeze before they reach the IM. One drop after another... drip drop drip drop. All these little droplets of water eventually form a glacier inside the fill tube.
OK, now we're at the point of glatiation. The fill tube (just behind the ice maker) has completely frozen solid. Now... when the IM "calls" for water to refill itself, the (failed) valve opens up and lets full pressure through. But where is this water/pressure going to go? The pressure builds inside the 1/4" water line until it can't handle it any more, the pressure looks for the path of least resistance. That path is the connection that you found loose. It blew out because the fill tube (into the freezer) is blocked with ice and the reason it's blocked is because the valve isn't shutting off completely.
That's alot of words to say this... it's an easy fix. Get the valve (above). Pull the fridge out. Unplug it. Turn the water off at the wall. Remove the water line going into the valve and set aside. Remove the cardboard panel. Remove the 2 screws holding the valve to the fridge. Pull the valve out. Note the electrical and tubing connections carefully. Get your new valve out and install the electrical and tubing just like the old one. Then rebuild, turn on the water and look for any leaks (use a flashlight and take a minute or two here... finding a leak now will save you alot of misery later). Replace the cardboard and plug it back in.
There ya go! Your first major appliance repair job done successfully? Priceless.
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
All you'll need is a 6' long piece of tubing. One that's got a 1/4" compression fitting on both ends. You can get one at a Home Depot or Lowe's (and you can see what I'm talking about here).
Install is a breeze. Just roll your fridge out enough so you can get behind it. Hook up one end of the tubing to the valve on the wall and the other end to the connector on the fridge (that should be near the bottom on the right side... but it could be on the left), tighten both connections really snug and turn the water on at the valve on the wall. <--- remember "righty tighty, lefty loosey". Then use a flashlight and look for any leaks (this is crucial, so take your time here). Look carefully at both connections and make sure they don't drip... watch them a minute or so each. After that, all you have to do is roll your fridge back and you're done!
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
Hi and I hope this will help. You can manually turn the timer and see if any water is dispensed into the ice cube tray . If no water is dispensed check if the valve is any good . A solenoid in the valve opens to allow water in to the ice maker. Sometimes timers stick too.
Posted on Jul 05, 2009
SOURCE: Kenmore ice maker problem
the problem is an unlevel icemaker to prove this do you see little droplets of water freezing from the icemaker or a remote possibilty is do you have to an R/O system and have you change the filter if unit has one.
Posted on Aug 19, 2009
SOURCE: ice maker icing up
Sounds like you may have a couple of problems here. The frost build up could be from a bad door seal. Moist air can be drawn in and collect on the inside. As for the water temp, it sounds like the water line connected to the refrigerator could be tapped off a hot water line. It needs to be connected to a potible cold water line.
Posted on Aug 27, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Oct 02, 2014 | Kenmore Elite Side By Side Refrigerator -...
Apr 01, 2013 | Kenmore 26.5 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...
Jan 14, 2013 | Kenmore Elite Side By Side Refrigerator -...
Dec 08, 2012 | Kenmore Elite Side By Side Refrigerator -...
Jul 01, 2012 | Kenmore Elite Side By Side Refrigerator -...
May 02, 2010 | Kenmore Freezers
Apr 25, 2010 | Kenmore 16.7 cu. ft. / 473 liter Upright...
Jan 22, 2010 | Freezers
Dec 31, 2009 | Freezers
Mar 25, 2009 | Kenmore Freezer 20.3 cu. ft. Frost Free...
76 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: