Question about Kenmore Kitchen Ranges
I would look more toward replacing the igniter. You have not really given enough information to be sure what the problem is (Does it heat at all? Does it take forever to get to 200 degrees (or something like that)? and without the model number; or even if the range is gas or electric there is no way of giving you specific instructions on how to change it or what it looks like because there are so many different ones on the market. But the igniter is pretty easy to replace; 2 screws (usually) with connected wire(s) If you have a gas range, you may need 1 igniter for the oven and one for the broiler. (Both of mine were out at the same time and that seemed so impossible before I replaced them. But it is fact) .
The thermostat is not testable and the only way of knowing is to replace it because it is also not servicable. You can look to see if the igniter is glowing once your have turned the oven/broiler on. But, even though the oven igniter may be glowing, it may be too weak to allow the gas valve to open. If the oven broiler igniter glows for more than 90 seconds without igniting the gas flame, the oven broil igniter should be replaced. This is the most common part that fails when there is an oven broiler problem. If you still have the manual that came with your range, there is probably a parts list. If not, google "oven igniter" + (your specific model number) and also "broiler igniter" + (your specific model number). Then you will know if you need 1 unit or 2. OEM parts (Kenmore, Maytag, GE, etc) are usually over-priced and a universal part works just fine for way less money. If you need your oven pronto you will probably need to purchase from a local store (call and get the price). If you have more time, order it on line. (I paid 1/3 the price for mine by buying it online). You might also want to google your Kenmore model + "disassembly" or "diagram" in order to get a picture of the range's components so you will be able to identify and replace your igniter(s).
Posted on Nov 09, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Typically what happens on on these models, when the bake element breaks, it sends a surge back to the oven control (or clock) and causes it to fail also. Sounds like this is what has happened here. If the overlay (touchpad) is a separate piece, you will need to buy it also. Let me know if you have any questions.
Posted on Feb 25, 2008
CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE TERMINALS OF THE BAKE ELEMENT. GAIN ACCESS BY REMOVING THE BACK PANEL OF THE RANGE. SOMETIMES THE TERMINAL WILL BURN OFF OF THE WIRE GOING TO THE ELEMENT. THE WIRE WILL JUST BE HANGING THERE. BE SURE TO UNPLUG THE OVEN BEFORE REMOVING BACK PANEL. IF THE WIRE IS BURNT, REPLACE THE TERMINAL AND REATTACH TO THE ELEMENTS TERMINAL. IF THE TERMINAL IS DAMAGED, REPLACE BAKE ELEMENT.
IF THERE IS NO VOLTAGE TO THE ELEMENT, REPLACE CONTROL.
Posted on Apr 04, 2008
SOURCE: Oven or broil does not work
hi thanks for the question . the control board seems to be defective the clicking noise is the relay .but not letting power to the elements thanks the appliance doc
Posted on Sep 28, 2008
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