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Leisure Bay -My spa will not heat - no FLC/FLO code/Voltage is correct/4KW Dry Element Heater test 15.9 Ohm across leads and OL on each to housing

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It appears per your test that the heater May not be the problem as it shows that it may be good.

Your error message is a Flow condition / Restriction

Try cleaning the filter

Posted on Nov 14, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: No Heat from Spa

Tcarrigan,

Heater contactors "buzzing": Do you mean normal buzzing or extra loud buzzing? Loud buzzing or chattering can be caused by low voltage to a contactor. If normal sounds, then probably the relays on the contactors is working, but the contacts may be stuck, or burned enough so as not to make contact. First, get a voltmeter and check for 240 volts AC at the heater contactor terminals. If the voltage is low, most likely you need to check the contactors further. Check for dirty contacts, clean if needed. If the contacts are not moving when energized, then you will probably need to replace one or both of the contactors.

Posted on Jan 18, 2009

  • 990 Answers

SOURCE: Spa Heater

You need to check your temp sensor and your high limit. Both are tubes that slide into the plumbing on or near your heater. If this is a tube heater then they are probally at on each end of the heater and will have small wires coming from them that go back to the control board. Farely common problem and easy enough to fix with replaceing them both. A number of models wire them together so they come as one part. Good luck.

Posted on Jan 20, 2010

  • 8404 Answers

SOURCE: Need manual for Leisure Bay spa

Go here http://www.spasbyleisurebay.com/ and click on Spa Manuals.

Posted on May 16, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a leisure bay spa with a s pack 3000

i have a s-pack 3000 that has no display ? so do i need a top side or a new pack??

Posted on Jul 16, 2011

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We can't get our hot tub to heat. The heater light comes on but the heater still won't heat.


heating elements are resistors that get hot
one end will have 115 volts but the other end should be considerable less because the resistance of the heating element drops the voltage
if you used a ohm meter you should be reading a resistance of 500-1000 ohms for a good heater element but with your readings , there will be no resistance so the element is faulty

Apr 06, 2017 | Element Water Heaters

1 Answer

Leisure Bay spa will not heat past 86 degrees. Element and sensors are new. Spa has excellent flow and correct voltage at terminals.


if the spa does not heat up to 104 degrees then the temp sensor is what you are going to need.
Are there error codes showing on the screen of the topside?
You will need to know the model number of the control box or the model number of the heater tube in order to get the proper sensor.


Rod
US Parts Center
888-521-6183

Feb 09, 2013 | Pool & Spa

1 Answer

Hot water element


Make sure wires are removed from element when ohm-testing.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
Watt and voltage rating of element appears on end of each element.
Volts squared divided by watts = correct ohm testing.
Two-element water heaters are rated for 240Volts, but can be wired for 120Volts.
Check that water heater is receiving power from circuit breaker box.
So if breaker is 2-pole 240Volt, then check that heater is receiving 240 V across top two screws on upper element.
Replace upper element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html
Other resources.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Test-electricity-to-water-heater.html

Oct 02, 2012 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Model # SWR12R5GDCOH 40amp - 240V - 3+g wiring - phase 1 - 6.0kw heater I was given this spa Friday (working). At my home and wired on Sunday and everything works except I'm getting no heat. The red...


Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.


Use a digital or analog multimeter to test the heater. Start with voltage to the element probes inside the control box. They will protrude from the S.S. pipe into the control area. Confirm you have 230VAC line to line and then confirm 115VAC from each post to ground. Any variation of more than 10% from those numbers would suggest you have electrical issues.

If you have acceptable voltage to the element and it still will not heat turn all the power off and disconnect one of the line leads from the element post. Use the lowest ohm scale on the meter to measure resistance across the element. A typical reading is somewhere around 10 - 15 ohms...a very low resistance reading. Anything above 20 indicates problems with the element. What you will likely find is an element with infinite or some other reading WAY higher than even 20 ohms. Replacing an electric heater element in a spa heater is a fairly typical repair.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!


John

Nov 09, 2010 | Teledyne Laars Pool & Spa

1 Answer

Filled artic spa 36 hours ago. not heating properly. what should I check?


If you don't have any error codes, FLO, FLC, then there is a chance your heater has burnt out. You would need an Ohm meter to measure if you have continuity thru the heater element. You should read 11 to 12 ohms. If you have either FLO or FLC on the display this indicates a problem with the pressure switch. The pressure switch is threaded into the side of the heater, the stainless steel tube attached to the #1 or main pump. Its a round module with two wires attached to it. There is an adjusting post in the center of the module. For an FLO code turn the post half a turn CCW. For an FLC code turn it half a turn CW. If this does not solve the problem replace the pressure switch.

Oct 16, 2010 | Arctic Pool & Spa

2 Answers

When turned on everything seems to be operating except the heat. I have an older model matag MDG9520BWW. Does it sound like the heating element?


well there are several things in line with the heater that it could be as well check the thermostats and the thermal fuses they are on the heater housing and the blower housing they all should test closed or with "0" resistance with an "ohm" meter as well as the element should read closed or "0" ohms if it is good

Apr 05, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dishwasher does not dry dishes. dishes are not hot at end of cycle. seems like heating element is not heating


Connect a volt meter one lead at each terminal of the heater. Read the voltage when it is in the drying cycle. If you get about line voltage the heating element is bad. If you get no or very little voltage it is the timing unit. If you are uncomfortable measuring voltage remove one of the wires from the heating element, after unplugging it, then connect a ohm meter across the heater. If it reads above about 50 ohms it is bad, if not probably the timer. Of course you could always connect a light bulb across the two heater terminals and if it lights during the drying cycle the heater is bad.
Good Luck,
Gil

Mar 01, 2010 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

The dryer is not heating


Hello there here is a list of things to check
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse


Jan 09, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Heating element not getting hot


If the model number you have this listed under is correct, the heating element on this model is easy to get to. Follow these steps:

First, make sure you have the correct voltage at the wall receptacle and at the terminal block in the back of the dryer of 220-240VAC. If the voltage requirements are not correct, this can cause the heating circuits not to function, but the drum will still rotate. To access the dryer heating circuits, follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer before servicing. Dangerous voltages are still present inside the dryer with the unit turned off.
2. Remove the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer.
3. Remove the back panel by loosening all screws holding the panel in place.
4. The heater box will be located on the right-hand side (as viewed from the rear). The heating element is housed inside the heater box with the Hi-Limit Thermostat located the closest to the heatet terminal and the Therm Cut-Out (TCO) located at the top end of the heater box.
5. Measure the TCO, first. This is the first likely cause of a no heat problem. A good TCO should read a short (0 ohms). 6. A measurement across the heating element should read about 15 ohms or less if good.
NOTE: Remove the wire leads from any components under test to ensure a proper reading. If any readings are abnormal, replace the component.

Illustrations of your dryer are available at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look for item number 6, 15 and 17 under the "Bulkhead" heading. Repairclinic.com and appliancepartspros.com are also excellent sources for finding parts.

If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Jan 14, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Replaced heating element in dryer. will not run.


You have a bad (thermal limiter). It's like a fuse one time shot, it stops all of the control power to the dryer. Try testing it with the dryer unplug use a ohm meter across the leads. It should read some type of a reading, if it reads OL it's burn out.

Jan 13, 2009 | Frigidaire GLER341A Electric Dryer

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