Question about Car Audio & Video
Iv hooked my kicker 250.1 amp to my stereo and it what put out sound. what do I do to fix it
Be sure it is wired correctly and that it has about 13 volts if egine is running.
Posted on Nov 27, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: no sound
did you set your gains and base boost also when you put sterio back in dash did you put rca's on proper outputs or the rca's could have pulled out when putting back in
you have high output and low output
are your subs getting sound to them at all any current going threw speaker wires to subs
radio settings might not be set to back end for subs this is a feature on most receivers to shut off back end subs
Posted on May 09, 2008
Good day ma'am, hi, hooking up an extra amp. on your radio is done by audio professionals, but if you can remove the radio out from your ford, you can install that extra amp. Just follow the diagram below. You need to find line out of your radio to line in of your kicker amp. connect them using audio shielded cables. connect your speakers to the amp. I guess you this already.
Posted on Nov 23, 2009
disconnect the amp and then put the fuse in.if it blows,there is a pinched wire causing a short.
Also,big amplifiers like that have to be wired battery direct.
the surge current at boot up can pull 100 amps for 10 millisec.
Posted on Jan 13, 2010
Hi as an ex Kicker repair engineer for the UK's main Kicker distributor I am completely familiar with this amplifier! The advice I am going to give you must be carried out by a competent engineer. Chances are that the power supply mosfets are all shorted & this is where the smoke will have emanated from, this will be obvious by the appearance of the mosfets being "charred" & possibly black "Witness" marks on the pcb. There are 6 of them, 3 either side carrying the prefixes: Q43, 44 45 & Q 47, 48 & 49. If when checked with an ohm meter they are found to be short, all will need to be replaced. The following components can be used: RFG70N06 or HUF7343G. However before this is done a couple of other checks must be carried out first. Remove all 6 offending mosfets, power the amp. up on the bench & use an oscilloscope to check the pulse width modulator waveforms coming from pins 11 & 14 of U7 (PWM i.c, SGS3525) both waveforms should be identical. If there is no output then this component will need to be replaced. Now check the following resistors with an ohm meter: R92, 93 & 94 + R99, 100 & 101, they should each read 47 ohms, any that are open circuit must be replaced. These resistors are critical as they feed the mosfets with the waveform generated by the PWM i.c to produce a working power supply, necessary to generate the correct voltage rails needed to make the amp. work. When you are satisfied all is ok then you can replace all of the mosfets as detailed earlier, before powering up again though 1 further check will be required. Using the ohm meter again check all of the output transistors for short circuits, there are 16 of them & are identified by the following prefixes: Q13 - Q16 (TIP35C), Q17 - Q20 (TIP36C) & Q33 - Q36 (TIP35C) + Q37 - Q40 (TIP36C) if any are found short circuit between any of their pins they will need replacing. This amp must be protected by 3 x 30 Amp fuses (90 Amps) & the in line fuse feeding the Amp. power cable should include the same rated fuse. If you manage to repair this ok make sure the installed cable is has a large enough cross section to supply this current, if it does not chances are this was the cause of the mosfets blowing in the first place. All the best! acbva.
Posted on Mar 04, 2010
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