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Model awo/r4205 can drum bearings be replaced

I have the drum unit out but it has no bolts or removable clips so how is the plastic part split

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  • Bill Taylor
    Bill Taylor Nov 08, 2014

    whirlpool awo/r4205 has a heat welded plastic cover so you can not separate it and rejoin it. so you can not replace the bearings

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 188 Answers

SOURCE: bearing on front load washing machine needs replacing (Frigidaire

You will need to replace the tub rear shell/bearing assembly (part # 131525500).
To do this, practically the whole machine will need to come apart.
To remove the drive pulley, remove rear cabinet panel. Remove the pulley screw and pull back on the pulley (you may need to giggle it as you pull to remove it).
For the shock pins, grab the open end with a pair of vise-grips. On the "pointy" side of the pin press the tab in with your finger (if you can't push the tab in slide a 9/16" socket onto it) and pull the pin out with the vise-grips (twist back and forth slightly as you pull).

A qualified tech could replace the rear shell/bearing in about 1.5 - 2 hrs. I can certainly give you more help if you need it, let me know.
Good luck!

Posted on Mar 14, 2009

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beltronic205
  • 1461 Answers

SOURCE: How many bearings has the drum have and how do

Most have two sets front and back...make would be helpful

Posted on Feb 09, 2010

apart4u
  • 213 Answers

SOURCE: Hotpoint WMA54 - in middle of attempting to

Here are a series of free videos to help you with your bearing problems and how to fix them
For all your free videos on appliance repairs remember to mark us down and leave feed back please
For all your parts visit our site http://www.apart4u.co.uk

This first video shows you how to diagnose the problem


The next Hotpoint video is on how to take the drum out


This Hotpoint video will show you how to change the bearings in the drum tub


the last one will show you how to change the spider or drum support as they are known

Posted on May 27, 2010

onthejob5130
  • 640 Answers

SOURCE: I am replacing the bearings

ok..i will give you a couple of solutions go slow ,,becaues i understand your trying to save your spin tube,,did you try and soak it with wd 40....now what i do is set the plastic outter tub on a solid edge
and let the inner metal basket dangle..and whit a nice 2 pound hammer and i use a nut drive pund down evenly ..its hard no quetion in some case because the metal shaft swell up,,,most inner spin tubes are stainless steel so they have a lifetime warranty...if you can get a helper you can try unscrewing the parts the helper turns one way and you another...good luck

Posted on Sep 07, 2011

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: how to replace belt on Whirlpool AWO/R4205

Whirlpool AWO/R4205 service light comes on when started

Posted on Jun 01, 2013

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Drum needs to be replaced message,Remove waste toner,Waste toner full


Save money by removing your drum units waste toner yourself.By removing waste toner the drum life will be increased.Remove the waste toner every 3 to 5 thousand prints.

The main cause of drum failure in this model is caused by waste toner build up at the back of the drum,this cause the drum cleaning blade to put more pressure on the drum and.

Slide the platte-ned cover Assembly to the left open the left cover,remove the drum and developing Assembly like you do when you have to remove a paper jam.The drum and developer assy is attached by 2 blue clips,unlock the clips and separate the def and drum.On top of the drum unit the is a plastic plug that you can remove and trough out the toner in a dustbin with plastic bag coverd.Do not use this toner again in the machine.
Reinstall the plug and connect the drum and developer unit with the two clips.Reinstall the unit.

By removing the waste toner regally you will save on service cost as well.

on Dec 05, 2009 | Canon ImageRUNNER 1670F Copier

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Does the outer drum on a hotpoint WT540


All outer tubs on most Washing Machines these days are sealed.
Therefore you cannot split the tub to get inside and change the bearings. instead you have to change the whole tub assembly as a complete unit. Not an easy job.

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Kenmore elite washer troubleshooting


Sounds like your bearings are worn and need replacing... a horrible job. The frayed plastic may mean a new drum. To replace the bearings you must remove and separate the drum which requires removing the top, front, and back panels. Lots of clips, screws, hoses, wires.... I'd take it on if this were my unit; but for a client, I'd say get a new one. This is not uncommon for these units. Sorry.

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How to replace belt on Whirlpool AWO/R4205


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hello, unfortunately the wf321 drum does not split the bearings and drum come as one complete unit and so you need to order a drum unit complete with new bearings and replace the lot

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1 Answer

I'm trying to separate the drum on a Hotpoint wf740, is this a sealed drum unit?


Hi,

Drum being seized in my opinion the bearings have seized to replace them you will need to remove the front of the machine disconnect all the wires from the drum not the machine there are two plastic pegs holding the suspension legs to the drum which you will need to remove. push the pins in at the backof the pegs and pull out the pegs,sorry you will need too remove the two concrete blocks top/bottom first, then remove the pegs lift out the drum remove the fixings around the drum with a t-30/t-40 bit,then split the drum now comes the tricky bit - AT THE BACK OF THE DRUM IS A 13MM BOLT UNDO THIS ONE TAKE OFF THE FLY WHEEL AND THEN REPLACE THE BOLT HIT THIS BOLT AS HARD AND AS CLEANLY AS YOU CAN WITH A LARGE HAMMER SO THE STAINLESS STEEL DRUM COMES OUT THEN YOU NEED TO GET THE OLD BEARINGS OUT THESE CAN BE A PIG SOMETIMES SO DONT GIVE UP THEN REPLACE WITH NEW ONE'S PUT BACK TOGETHER IN REVERSE ORDER.hope this helps if you can think you can do it it's not as bad as it looks ,good luck

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May 13, 2009 | Washing Machines

9 Answers

Suspect drum bearings


LG Direct Drive bearing replacement The following guide is written to help you assess if replacing the bearings is a job you can undertake and complete. This is not written to be specific to any particular direct drive model but it will help in all cases.
Must do's Before commencing work on an electrical appliance:
1) Unplug the appliance from the wall socket, ensure the appliance on/off switch is in the off position.
2) Turn off the inlet water at the isolation valves and disconnect the inlet hoses from the appliance.
3) Clear a space and plan where you are going to put items you remove from the appliance.
4) Have pen and paper handy for making notes, a digital camera is ideal for taking a picture of wiring connections for future reference (**PHOTO**)
Strip down 1) Remove the worktop by undoing 2 screws at the rear, slide backwards and lift off.
2) FROM THE BACK.....Remove the back panel (4 screws) giving access to the rear of the tub unit. Disconnect the wiring to the motor, thermostat and heater, disconnect earth wires, (**PHOTO**). The drum pulley, which is the ROTOR of the direct drive system has a single bolt to undo. Slacken this bolt a turn or two, DO not remove completely. Gently tap the bolt with a soft faced hammer or drift, this will assist in the removal of the Rotor. Remove the bolt and remove the rotor, careful as it has a series of magnets around its inner circumference. The stator of the direct drive system is now in front of you, there are 6 bolts holding it in place. Remove these and very carefully remove the stator without damaging it, its very expensive, look after it. Depending on your model there could be a spacer between the stator and the tub unit, if so remove this also.
3) FROM THE FRONT.....Open the filter door (left side of kick plate) if there is a small drain hose, remove stopper and drain off any water in there. There is 1 screw to remove which is at the side of the filter, then slide the kick plate sideways should release the plinth from the cabinet. Open the door, the seal clamp band that secures the door gasket to the cabinet should be removed. If the door seal has a further hose attached, remove it.
4) Read all of this paragraph, there are 2 versions.....Remove 3 screws holding the lower edge of the front panel to the cabinet. Remove the soap drawer, remove 2 screws in the control panel that secure the soap box, depending on model there could be a third in the lower right hand corner, if there is, remove it. If there isn't read on further.. Carefully slide the front panel downwards about 20mm and it will disengage from the cabinet, carefully look behind it and disconnect the door lock wiring to allow complete removal. If there was not a third screw (lower right hand corner of the control panel) then the control panel will have to be removed. From the top remove the clip retaining the hose that goes into the top of the tub unit, remove the clip holding the large hose on the left, slide the soap box backwards slightly and hang over the back of the cabinet, all the hoses still connected. To remove the control panel look under the top frame and release the two lugs whilst easing the panel away from the cabinet. disconnect the wiring and remove away completely.
5) From the bottom remove the sump hose from the tub, the screw that secures the pressure bottle to the tub. Remove the suspension pins from the top position of the legs and push the legs clear of the tub unit. The tub unit will now be hanging from the top springs. Using strong wire or rope, loop the hook of the spring, lift clear of the cabinet and lower the tub unit to the floor. Repeat this on the other spring which then allows the tub unit to be lifted through the front of the cabinet.
6) Place the tub unit door seal up, remove the screws that secure tub front 1/2 to the rear 1/2. This allows the inner drum to be removed, if its tight use soft faced hammer, DO NOT damage the drum shaft.
Inspect the drum shaft collar, the collar is located at the base of the shaft and is the surface that the oil seal mates to. Look for indents or circular ruts where the previous seal has worn the collar away
6a70_2.jpg if damaged you will need a new spider unit. Do not clean up using abrasive cloth, try the green pan scrubber from the kitchen instead. If damaged and you don't replace it the bearing replacement will fail prematurely as the oil seal fails to keep the wash water away.
There are several different kits, comprising of 2 bearings and 1 oil seal. To obtain the correct kit you will need the model number of your appliance, eg WM1480FHD or WM1485FHD or WM16225FD
all use bearing kit 1 available here other kits are available for other models including belt drives and washer dryers
The bearings can now be removed, the seats cleaned and made ready for the new bearings and water seal. A light cover of grease can be smeared on the inner edge of the seal.
7) There is a tub seal which fits in the recess between the front and rear 1/2's of the tub unit, it is adviseable to renew that seal before rebuild is commenced.
8) Rebuild is a reversal of the above, at every step double check electrical and hose connections and before you refit the cabinet front.
Hope you find this guide useful, some paragraphs can be applied to the belt drives also.

Nov 18, 2007 | LG WM-1485FHD Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Replacing bearings


Hi I found these, I have the same problem but I am taking the easy way out, BIN IT!!!
answer 1:
With your zanussis once you have removed the back half of the pannel and the top pannel. you will have to then detach the motor wire plug. then the heater wires and also the there is a sensoer on the side of the drum that also has a wiring connection. Also detactch the earth wires Then here come the tricky part. if you look on the top of the drum you have a rubber pipe connected to it comming from the washer draw detach that its easy. Then you have to dicconect the door seal from the front of the machine by the door (do not dissconect from the seal from the drum as you dont have to . Then disconnect the the drain hose. once this is all done you have to disconnect the legs, from the drum side. these are easily done as the pegs come out easily if you push in the pips from one side you can either knock them out with a hammer but it is best to pull em out with either some long bent nose pliers or gripping em in such a way with a monkey ranch
Best way og getting the drum out is once you have done all that is to turn the machine onto its back and lifting the casing off leaving the drum
2:
To replace the bearings you need to split the plastic drum that you are talking about. It is held together by lots of 8mm headed screws. Some are hard to get access to but you can get them out. You will need to take the springs off take care to support the weight of the drum and lower it on to the dampers. Now carefully lie the machine on it's front mark and unplug all the wires cut the tie that holds the wires to the outer drum unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the motor to the back of the drum unclip all the hoses that attach to the rear of the plastic drum. The damper pins need to be removed form the drum using one hand feel for a push-in clip at the back of the pin push it in and pull the hexed end of the pin out with both pins out the drum will lift out turn it upside down to expose the inner drum get help, have them hold the outer drum while you pull thr inner drum out you should now see the inner bearing get a bucket sit the outer drum on it and drift out the bearings
3:
Yes, the drum shaft needs to be pushed through the bearings. assuming you have already removed the drum pulley, pick the whole assembly up and 'drop' it, pulley shaft down, onto a protective piece of wood. A few drops from various heights usually is enough to push the drum and shaft through. If you do need to resort to wacking it with a hammer, ensure a piece of wood is protecting the shaft and that the pulley bolt is fitted to protect the thread. Unless of course you are changing the drum shaft/spider anyway in which case damage is not so much of a problem.

4??
     I've just tried to replace the front bearing on a Zanussi (admittedly a different model FLA1001w but a similar construction) My advice is don't bother. The notion of removing the rear half of the drum is pure fiction. All the screw bolts securing the two halves together have their heads on the front half of the drum and virtually all are impossible to get to with normal hands and tools. They are also very tight (rightly so). I elected to remove the whole drum. This sounds daunting but it does allow clear access for the rest of the job. All pipes and wires etc have to be disconnected. Remove the concrete counter balance, pulley wheel etc. Undo the plastic ring clip retaining the rubber door seal, and remove the seal from around the rim. Next I lowered the whole m/c onto its front but making sure that the door could not shut and trap the seal. In this position it is probably easier to remove the springs and the shock mounts. The plastic pins holding the shocks to the rear of the drum have a hidden locking mechanism which you only find out about after breaking one! Again the locking portion is on the front side of the drum assembly and is not clearly visible or accessible. You have to depress the locking tab to allow the pin to be extracted. The springs also have to be released; this is also not as easy as it would appear. Line up a few band-aids before attempting. Then when everything is disconnected it should be possible to lift the whole drum out. It would be easier with two people. If no-one else is around make sure you have a couple more band-aids and a can of lager waiting. Once the drum is out you can then begin to remove the countless bolts holding the two halves together. I then discovered that you really need to remove the motor as well to get the two halves apart. Having got the two halves apart it should then be a simple matter of removing the inner drum complete with spider. NOt so. It really is a tight fit in the rear bearing. Despite much effort, hammering, coaxing etc the shaft would not come out and in the end I gave up and bought a new machine. Maybe you will be luckier than me. I wish you every success and hope you can gain from my abortive attempts.

5:
     I have just done a bearing change on my FJ1093.It requires you
to take the rear of the machine off and work towards splitting the tub in half.Take the drive belt off and the drive wheel. Unplug and remove wires (Element plugs,sensor plug and earth wires.)Remove weight from top of rear tub.Undo rubber fitting at top right hand side of rear tub. Now you have to remove all the bolts around the joint in the centre of the tubs.This is a bit awkward to get into so use a ratchet spanner and a socket set where you can. There are two bolts on the rear tub securing the motor as well.There is two shock absorber units at base that need the plastic pins removing. Once all the bolts are undone the tubs should split, but be aware of two springs at the top that need lifting up out of there locations.Also be careful of the heating element at the bottom of the tub when splitting.In hindsight though you could remove the heating element before you try to split as this saves any risk of damage.The rear tub should come off together with the drum. Once this is removed support the motor and the front tub as you don`t want all the weight to go on the front rubber seal.
Now you have you access to the inner bearing and drum bearing seal once push off the drum and spider support.You can then replace these and also the outer bearing and rebuild is reverse of dismantling.
I hope this helps you and there may be an easier method , but this is the way I did it. Hope these instructions help.

Oct 21, 2007 | Zanussi FLA1001W Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Replace drum bearing


To complete this repair correctly and to prevent problem re occuring within months you must change the inner drum spider at the same time as the bearing kit, otherwise you are wasting your time, to complete the repair if you have not done one before will take you aprox 1 to 3 hours depending on space available and practicle ability, here goes, remove lid and outer case from machine to do this remove bolts on lower back and two side bolts (under small white covers) remove bolts along top edges both sides on top of macnine, remove cabinet, remove motor, remove hoses, remove heater and thermostat wires, noting location for refitting, remove suspension leg pins and lift outer drum assembly complete fron lower frame, split two halves of outer drum by removing bolts around centre seem, split drum in two, remove drum pully, refit pully bolt and drift inner drum out having put nut back on drum spider thread to avoid flaring shaft, using hammer knock shaft through bearings, then using a chisel or similer object knock out bearings and seal, reverse process refitting new bearins and spider, make sure to replace centre outer drum seal, as these are prone tro leaking I suggest you also seal with a layer of clear silicon, and problems contact me again, not really a job for a novice. Good Luck you will need it. Regards Advisor

Aug 29, 2007 | Zanussi FJS1225W Front Load Washer

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