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Hot water heaters are a collector of sediment. The proper care includes flushing out the collected debris through the low side drain faucet. The problem is the faucet is not designed correctly to carry out the needed task. If you are handy... turn off the water and gas or electricity to your water heater. Relieve the water pressure through the temperature/pressure relief valve on the side of the water heater tank. Once pressure is relieved close the valve. Determine if you have a 1/2 inch or a 3/4 inch diameter drain valve hole in the side of the tank where the drain valve is located. The drain valve can be removed with channel lock pliers, an 8 or 10 inch adjustable wrench, or a small 8 to 10 inch pipe wrench. Water will leak out the threaded hole while the valve is out. If everything is closed maybe 2 cups of water will leak out of the hot water tank as you check drain valve thread size. DO NOT take your time checking thread size. After you know the pipe thread size go to the hardware store ( Home Depot, Lowe's etc) purchase a short nipple (1 1/2 to 3 inch depending on available space) and a ball valve (brass) due to the water temperature. You will also need a brass adapter for pipe thread to garden hose thread (male both ends). This adapter goes into the ball valve to allow for the connection of a garden hose. Connect the pipe and valve together using the correct pipe thread sealant and install in place of the original plastic drain valve. Install pipe to hose adapter using thread sealant. With the ball valve in place turn the water back on. Gas or electricity back on. Connect a garden hose to the ball valve. Place the other end of the garden hose in a safe area as hot water and debris will be expelled through the hose. With water on, Gas or Electricity on and the relief valve closed actuate the ball valve to the full open position for approximately 3 seconds then close the valve. Repeat the open and close of the ball valve three times. Observe the debris that emptied out of the garden hose. You may be surprised at what you see. If the water runs clear, disconnect the garden hose the task is completed. You can wait until the following year to repeat the process. Your pipe and valve are now a part of the water heater, they may remain in place. Put the hose away.
Youtube offers many videos of the water heater installation. Drain first with a garden hose. after turning off water and unplugging electric or shut off gas.
If changing to a tankless, remember they often require a larger vent pipe to the roof. 4" usually, not the 3" for tank water heaters. Local building codes may require a permit and a larger Gas feed pipe.
Also if you're going to use the old Pressure Relief Valve DO NOT test the valve by activating the little lever. Once used over time their internal seals weld onto the closed seat and tend to rip and leak if you test the valves function. Replace with new ( $15) if it's been operated. Most plumbers now use Braded Feed Lines from/to the Water sources, making future replacements easier. You might find the replacement Tank is not the same geometry as the old one, having longer braided feed lines helps when they are on opposite ends of the tank top and the original feed lines are copper and wont reach the new tank pipes or the tank gas starter door is on the back side requiring you to rotate the tank 180. If you're changing size, measure the width and height. It might not fit the old installation.
Hi Installed incorectly...You have gravity by-passing (flow) into the cold water pipe.Maybe have a check valve installed to stop flow during stand-by time. thanks
Slamming of the pipes happens because of the water pressure and and the sudden opening of the water solenoid. The solenoid has to open suddenly as it is activated by a magnetic coil that pulls a plunger valve open. There is a spring (return spring) on the back of the plunger that compresses and gives the plunger a return power push to seat the plunger when the power is turned off. In the past few years, plumbers have been loosely connecting pipes in hangers so that they move with the change in water pressure so as not to bang and cause a noise that upsets the home owner. Also many homes are plumbed with plastic pipe that stops a lot of the pipe noise. Most washing machines and refrigerator ice makers that have water solenoids make some noise, but engineering has mitigated a lot of this with the return springs that have the strength to slow the action of the plunger in the solenoid, but yet open wide enough to allow full water inlet.
I suspect that your water pipes are not slung properly to mitigate the bang caused by sudden pressure drop, thus you most likely would get a pipe bang from any washers.You could try changing the solenoid in your washer on the premise that the return spring is weak, but this probably will not solve all of the problem. The banging is just upsetting and does no harm as it is a natural action.
You could test this out by hooking a garden hose to the water outlet at the washing machine and using a trigger release sprayer on the garden hose. When you trigger the garden hose, I suspect that you may hear a pipe bang.
Sounds like you have sediment built up in the pipes, and maybe the furthest faucet is the gathering place. Take off each shut-off valve at furthest faucet and connect a water hose that flows into nearby toilet bowl. You can buy garden-hose-to-1/2-pipe adapter at hardware. Open water so it flushes the line into toilet bowl. Then clean out valves and reassemble shut-offs and grundfos connection. Remove faucet aerator and flush line up to faucet. Install new aerator.
Could be a clog in the system. First, obviously you want to make sure your coolant level is where it should be. If it is, look for a spot on the fire wall where 2 rubber hoses are clamped to pipes going into the passenger compartment. They'd be close to the passenger side of the car about half way down. the pipes those hoses are attached to lead to the heater core under the dash of the car. NOTE WHICH HOSE GOES TO WHICH PIPE. Remove the hoses and clamp them shut. Run water through a garden hose into one of the pipes to try and unblock it. run it till the water comes out clear at the same rate its coming out of the hose.After that, switch the garden hose to the OTHER pipe and run the water trough it in reverse to try and jostle anything blockages loose. Re attach the hoses in their CORRECT positions, and get the car up to normal driving temperature. re check your coolant level. Dont worry about any leftover water in the heater core. It won't affect your coolant. If it bugs you though, you can blow into one of the pipes and spray out about 80 percent of the water inside. Just watch out you don't spray yourself in the face with water from the other pipe!! I've done it to myself without thinking before. Hope this helps! Good luck!
Your shaft coupler / motor coupler has likely broke. Not too hard to fix yourself, but you will have to remove the water from the washer first.
Remove the clothes, place them in the bathtub. Roll a garden hose from the washer to outside where drain water won't matter. Tape the garden hose to the drain hose, and lower the drain hose to the floor. Water will flow through the garden hose outside. Turn the washer over, follow directions supplied with new part, and replace the motor coupling. When finished, reorient the washer, remove the garden hose, place drain hose in the drain stand pipe. Run the washer through a couple of full cycles, then rewash the clothing.
1. You may have high water pressure, causing the internals of the fill valve to vibrate and that vibration wave being transferred to your water pipes causing a reverberation noise called hammering.
An easy fix for this would be to reduce the flow to the fill assy. by turning down the units supply valve from wide open to about half way open. A few more permanent solutions may include, The installation of a Water hammer damper device - installation of a PRV pressure reducing valve - Although not intended for this issue is an air charged bladder style expansion tank installed, this device has been proven to reduce water hammering.
2. Water pipes that are not properly secured, loose and allowed to shake when there is a sudden surge of flow pressure. Much like a garden hose flexes when the nozzle is quickly turned on. This issue is most common with CPVC (plastic) water lines due to their flexibility and will require many more secure points.
A fix for this is a bit more labor intensive, due to having to access the un-exposed water lines in walls and ceilings so as to inspect and/or re-secure them to their surrounding structures.
A tip for securing the pipes where they penetrate through wall studs is to inject an expanding foam product in to the studs penetration, hence when the foam expands and cures it will form a very snug fit.
Note: if ether of these are the case, the problem should not be allowed to continue, because water pipe leaks could occur at the solder or welded connections and/or at locations where the pipes are rubbing against an abrasive surfaces causing a rupture.
This is how I flush the heater core...go to the garden department at Wal-Mart and get a 5/8 - 3/4" female garden hose connector similar to my picture...remove the upper heater core hose and connect your garden hose to the connector then to the heater hose and secure with a hose clamp. Remove the lower heaer core hose and point it to the gound, then turn on your faucet and run clean water thru it...
First shut off the main water supply. This is likely located close to your water meter where the main water supply enters your house. After shutting the water off, open a faucet on the lower level and let the water lines drain. Disconnect the water supply line running to the base of the fixture you will be working on. On some, this will just be a screw on connection, and on others it may be a soldered pipe. If it's soldered, use a hacksaw (or better yet, a pipe cutter) to cut the pipe in two places, about 2" down from the base of the fixture and also 6" to 10" further down the pipe. Use the reamer on the pipe cutter to remove any burrs on the copper pipes, and then clean them (with a piece of sandpaper or emery cloth) until they shine. Slide the compression nut from the shut off valve onto the pipe with the threads facing the open end. Then slide on the compression ring. Wrap the pipe with Teflon tape or spread plumbing joint compound on the end of the pipe, and then push the shutoff onto the end of the pipe. Slide the compression nut and ring up to the shut off valve and hand tighten the nut. Attach the compression fitting of the flexible supply tube to the other side of the shut off valve and hand tighten it as well. Attach the compression fitting on the supply tube to the base of the faucet and hand tighten it. Once all your compression fittings are attached and hand tightened, use an adjustable wrench to tighten them all firmly. Be careful you don't over tighten as this can bend the soft copper pipe out of round or damage a compression fitting. Turn the water back on and check for leaks. (Don't forget to open the shut off valve when you turn on the faucet.)
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