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I Made diagram of wiring between the motor and capacitor before removing both devices. Installed new devices started hooking them up, when i noticed the new motor had a extra wire. The current wiring is red and black wires to power, yellow and orange wires not used, brown and brown/white to capacitor and white from power box to top of capacitor. The new white wire from the motor i don't know if it goes to the top of the capacitor or direct connect to white from power box. Can you help me whit this problem. Thank You
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Why are you replaceing capacitors? If they are "shot" put new back just the way the old were. Mark wires before you remove old. If capacitors are missing I understand the problem. Since you didn't indicate a model, you may find a service manual with wiring diagram here:
http://www.manualslib.com/
An open limit switch may make the fan run all the time. Try disconnecting the Green wire @ the furnace...if that does the trick, then either the thermostat fan relay is stuck, or there is a short between the Red & Green wires somewhere in the thermostat wire.
"the guy" added another start capacitor because the motor installed is actually better than spec. Your unit calls for 1/5 HP, 1050 RPM motor. The installed device is 25 rpm faster, and 1/4 HP.
The Rheem/Weather King/Corsaire/RUUD part number is 51-23055-11 (replaces many other Rheem/Corsaire/Weather King/RUUD Part #s including 51-21855-01)! It takes a 3 uf Capacitor rated at 370 volts. This Motor mouts with screws in the SIDE, instead of mounting studs coming out the back!!
Normal price for a generic motor w/ cap will be $125 or so, OEM part will be closer to 200. This is without the fan blade. Make sure you get the correct side mount studs.
This vintage unit is rated at only 10 SEER and is less energy efficient than a modern window air conditioner. Its days are numbered, and you are paying at least double every time it runs. Before you sink much money into this unit, please consider replacing it before it has a heart attack. Replacing it during the off season is cheaper anyway.
I suspect a bad run capacitor or fan motor. This is a split run capacitor unit. There is a terminal on your run capacitor for the compressor and also one for the fan (the metal canister with wires on it).I'm assuming that the compressor works, but the fan doesn't. Speaking to a novice without a multi-meter, so you won't be able to take continuity readings on the motor windings. I would say to you "just buy a new capacitor" If that doesn't solve your problem, call a tech. Before replacing it, be sure to disconnect the power first, and then use an insulated screwdriver or some other insulated tool (pliers, etc) and short together the capacitor terminals, because they do store a charge. Do this before attempting to remove the wires from the terminals. Whether or not the motor is good, you didn't waste your money. A new fan motor should have a new capacitor anyway.It could also be as simple as a broken conductor. Give it a good visual first, before attempting any repairs.
Welcome to the world of Ruud! Ok James heres the deal. It sounds like the condenser fan motor has failed. Its not a repairable item but the motor is not too expensive. Disconnect the main power at the fuse block on the side of your house next to your a/c. Remove the screws that hold the top fan section and carefully turn the fan/panel assembly over taking care not to stress the wires. Determine how the fan is mounted (probably 4 screws) and go find your new motor. Both Rheem and Ruud use the same motor mounting. Most a/c supply houses have a motor that will fit or go to graingers. Make sure you get a matching run capacitor for that motor. It will have separate wires and not share any wiring with the old capacitor. The old capacitor will have to stay in place since it is also connected to the compressor. The old motor will have 3 wires and the new one 4 (2 brown for the capacitor and 2 others to put on the contactor that the compressor wires go to). If its a heat pump it could be a board and youll need help. good luck
on the motor should be a diagram detailing the wires. brown white goes to either side of the capacitor and brown wire to other side of capacitor. hi speed goes to normally open contact on the indoor fan relay and the wire designated common on the motor goes to the other side of power from the relay contacts.
There should be 3 terminals on the capacitor marked "C" "F" and "H". A wire from the high voltage contactor goes to the "C". Another wire from "C" goes to the compressor. These wires are usually red. The "F" terminal has a wire going to the fan,usually a brown wire. The "H" has a wire going to the compressor,usually yellow. There should be a wiring diagram on the control box cover identifying the terminals,colors and number of wires.
Actually you can change it without the diagram. Simply cut the wires on the motor and leave the terminal ends attached to both the contactor terminals, and possibly the cpacitor if present. Then install your new fan motor replacing the leads from the old one with the leads from the new one.
But if the new motor has different colored leads, usually the brown leads are attached to the capacitor (it doesn't matter which terminal the leads go to, as long as there are only two leads and it is just the fan's capacitor). And then attach the other two leads to where the other two old leads are. (Naturally removing or swapping new wires to where old ones were.)
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