Question about Sewing Machines
I have changed the needle, set and reset tensions and will oil my machine as soon as I make a trip to the fabric store. Any input will be greatly appreciated. Thank you. This is a refurbished machine but has been great up until my last sewing project which the problem is getting worse. When using reverse it used to just gather a little bit. Now it gathers a lot.
Since you seem to have done everything possible to make it "happy", it is not likely that tension is the issue. With the problem becoming more aggravated, sounds like the feeding mechanism is not responding correctly in the reverse mode. Even refurbished machines come with a warrantty, so try that route before submitting it for an inspection by your local qualified technician.
Posted on Nov 07, 2014
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.
Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......
This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....
It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.
QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.
TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !
TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.
It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.
If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.
Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.
In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.
I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)
...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....
just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.
Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.
If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....
...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.
Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.
Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.
You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !
Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.
Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)
FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !
Posted on Jul 24, 2008
This is a very common problem with really lightweight fabric and can often be cured (if doing straight stitching) by using a straight stitch needle plate and foot. The wider needle plate and foot openings on newer machines give the machine/thread a wider area to pull the fabric into the machine. By using a straight stitch plate/foot you remove the wide opening, eliminating the majority of the problem.
Also - try using a specially coated needle (Teflon or other non-stick finish). The thread feeds more smoothly through the needle and the needle more smoothly through the fabric, causing less drag into the needle plate opening.
Hope this helps. Don't hesitate to respond to this if you have further specific questions. We're always happy to help
Kim & Linnette
Posted on Dec 03, 2008
The tread only breaks in the needle. what can i do . i don't get to sew anything . I tread the needle and get everything ready and start the machine and as quickly as that the tread is broken and the machine has not sewn at all.
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
Sounds like the hook/needle timing. To check do the following:
With the power off!!
remove bobbin and bobbin case.
push needle all the way to the left.
Turn handwheel toward you watching the needle and bobbin housing hook. The point of the hook should line up right above the eye of the needle.
If not timing, clean bobbin area removing lint and thread.
Check bobbin tension, should get slight resistance when pulling thread.
Make sure using only Husqvarna Viking bobbins -- most are green but they have new colors now. All will have the Husqvarna logo on them (an H). Make sure the bobbin is unwinding in the right direction.
Remove fabric. Pull extra long bobbin thread (about 3 inches). Hold upper thread tail in left hand, turn handwheel toward you for 1 revolution. Is the bobbin thread caught by the top thread and pulled through the opening of the needle plate?
If you are still unable to get a good stitch, take to an authorized Husqvarna Viking dealer for service or have them send to Husqvarna Viking (SVP) Technical Service Dept for repair. A list of dealers close to you can be found at the Husqvarna Viking website - http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/us
Posted on Sep 26, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 16, 2015 | Generic Brother 130-Stitch Sewing and...
Apr 26, 2015 | Singer 4423 Sewing Machine
Feb 12, 2014 | Euro-Pro Shark Mini Mechanical Sewing...
Feb 10, 2010 | PfaFF Sewing Machines
Jan 31, 2010 | Elna Sewing Machines
Oct 16, 2009 | Brother LS-2125 Mechanical Sewing Machine
Feb 16, 2009 | Singer Featherweight II 117
Nov 22, 2007 | Euro-Pro Shark 80 - 7133
32 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: