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I have SubZero Model 245 undercounter mini fridge with ice maker. Incredible product with no issues since install in 1994. Until now and way too expensive to replace. Water is leaking from water con

I have SubZero Model 245 undercounter mini fridge with ice maker. Incredible product with no issues since install in 1994. Until now and way too expensive to replace. Water is leaking from water conduit to right of ice maker which is whiteish. Upon further inspection it can totally be moved around and can also be removed from the metal sleeve it fits into which in turn is suppose to lay on top of where the water goes into the trays. It just can't be that flimsy and something must have broken. Its rigged now but not sturdy and can't find a detailed drawing of this section.

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 33,292 Answers

In service since 1994? Time to replace it.

Posted on Apr 17, 2017

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: My subZero Model 245 Icemaker stopped making ice

Ice maker, I don't know where you can find the manual but I'll give you a few ideas of what to look for. First make sure that the inlet tube is not frozen over. Next, look at the center gear on the module and see if the clips in the center are not broken. If so you will have to replace the module. The ejector blades should be at the 2:00 position when home. If you get a jumper wire and jump T to H, this will by pass the bi-metal and run a cycle. The ice maker should fill at around the 12:00 position. Test points L & N will verify if you have 120v to the ice-maker. Test points L & H will test the resistance of the heater, 72 ohms. plus or minus 10%. Hope this gets you going, Catriver...post back.

Posted on Aug 21, 2006

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: water leaking

Tarena, it's been my experience with Amana that tells me you have a failed water inlet valve.

Here's how it works; Water comes from the wall into the fridge to the valve I'm talking about. Now this valve works like this... When you put a cup in the dispenser area to get cold water a switch sends 120 volts to the valve and it opens up allowing water to flow through it. When you remove the cup, power is shut off at the valve... the valve is supposed to close all the way, if it didn't there would be water dripping from the dispenser area, right? (Like a leaky faucet) If the valve is bad, it won't open at all. (Like a blown out light bulb)

The ice maker is similar. When it "harvests" ice and it drops into the ice bin, the IM will send 120 volts to the valve (for 5 seconds or so) to re-fill the ice mold so it can make another batch. Now when the power is removed from the valve, it's supposed to shut off all the way. If it didn't, there would be water dripping into the ice maker fill tube (in the freezer behind the ice maker). drip, drip drip... one after the other.

Let's assume that the ice maker valve didn't close all the way. What would happen then? As these drops of water enter the freezer compartment and are heading down the ice maker fill tube toward the ice maker, they don't make it all the way 'cause they FREEZE in the tube! One drop at a time, week after week. ('course you never notice it, 'cause it's in the freezer) Now... the ice maker is still trying to make ice, so every 45 minutes or so it sends 120 volts to the valve to get more water. But the water fill tube has ice in it because of the water drops that have accumulated there. This goes on over time and eventually the water fill tube becomes completely BLOCKED with ice due to those water drops.

Now what happens? The ice maker is still trying to make ice, but the fill tube is blocked... it can't get water through it. But when the water valve opens up to allow water to the ice maker, where does it go? Since the fill tube is blocked, all that water pressure builds up in the water line (tube) that feeds the ice maker and eventually it blows out! (you can verify this... pull the refrigerator out from the wall, look at the water line going to the ice maker. There's a connector back there for the tube to fit into. This is what's blown out.) Now the tube is just dangling there and not hooked up to the ice maker any longer. Since the ice maker is still running, every time it asks for water it sprays out and onto the wall and floor back there through this dangling tube.

The repair? Replace the valve. It's easy. The part number is 67005154 and it lists for about $21.00. You can find one at any appliance parts retailer. (you'll see where the valve is located... it's where the water line hooks up behind the fridge.) UNPLUG YOUR FRIDGE WHILE YOU WORK ON IT!!!

Just replacing the valve is only half the job. You'll still need to remove the ice build up in the ice maker fill tube. Do this by pulling it straight out the back of the refrigerator and putting it under warm running water. Then re-install it and hook the water tube back up to it.

On some models, you can not remove the fill tube. If you can't get it out the back, you'll have to do it from the freezer compartment behind the ice maker (a little more work, but still do-able). It's easiest by removing the ice maker.... pull the ice bin out and set it aside. Then remove the 3 screws holding the ice maker. You don't have to disconnect the wires, just try to get it out of your way the best you can. Now take a hair dryer and thaw out the fill tube until the ice slides out of there. Then rebuild it.

There ya go! Job time? about an hour. Part cost? about $21.00. Knowing that you fixed it yourself? Priceless.

Posted on Oct 15, 2007

  • 833 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Icemaker not making ice.

That on/off arm...you should be able to move it and it will likely make a small click when the switch goes on or off. That arm controls the ice making. There is also a float, is it working freely? It has a switch too. Ultimately, the water is controlled by a solenoid valve. It may be defective. Many of these units are removable to test the switches with a multimeter. Turn off the water and remove to test. Some parts are available...some parts are by the unit only.

Posted on Dec 24, 2007

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: Ice maker not making ice

this is from another post i did but will cover you too your ice it is on a separate valve as the water in the door so the water flow don't mean a lot in this case remove the front plastic cover on the icemaker and you will see a bunch of little holes make a jumper wire out #10 or 12 house wire strip about 1/4 inch off the ends an insert in the holes marked t&h this will start a test cycle make sure yuo hold the plastic insulation so you don't get bit if the ice maker starts cycleing remove the wire and watch for it to stop listen for the icemaker valve to open if the ice maker finishes and the valve didnt fill replace the water valves if the icemaker doesnt cycle and yuo may have to kinda twistm the jumper back and forth to get it to make contact depending on the gauge you used then replace the ice maker motor module if you hear the valve open and the ice maker doesnt fill check for a frozen ice fill tube that should do it

Posted on Jan 19, 2008

  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: subzero 500 series ice maker

It sound's like you have a faulty icemaker. The icemaker has an internal timer that commands the inlet valve on at the correct time. If it does not stop the command, it will continue to fill. When you shut off the system, it kills power to the icemaker and that is why the solenoid goes off.

Posted on Oct 18, 2008

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My subZero Model 245 Icemaker stopped making ice


Ice maker, I don't know where you can find the manual but I'll give you a few ideas of what to look for. First make sure that the inlet tube is not frozen over. Next, look at the center gear on the module and see if the clips in the center are not broken. If so you will have to replace the module. The ejector blades should be at the 2:00 position when home. If you get a jumper wire and jump T to H, this will by pass the bi-metal and run a cycle. The ice maker should fill at around the 12:00 position. Test points L & N will verify if you have 120v to the ice-maker. Test points L & H will test the resistance of the heater, 72 ohms. plus or minus 10%. Hope this gets you going, Catriver...post back.

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