Question about GE JKP28 Electric Double Oven

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Double oven beeper won't stop

GE double oven,model J KP 38 GOJ6BG, the timer beeps or buzzes continuously unless the power to the oven is turned off. Otherwise, the ovens work and I can do without the clock/timer but can't make it shut up. It has not been working well for sometime, i.e. the push button to stop it would stick and it would take several pushes to make it pop in or out.

Husband pulled the oven out from the wall a bit but could not determine which wires went to the clock/timer. Thank you. B HOyt

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  • 2 more comments 
  • Blopiii Dec 30, 2007

    Timer beeper goes off approximately every minute unless power is shut off to oven.  Beeper can be temporarily shut off with stop button.  Digital display shows "F7."

  • brredd Dec 30, 2007

    Yes indeed, it appears that my oven has come down with this same disease. I have a GE electric double oven (installed new in May 2007). The clock starts to beep, asking to be set. After clock is set, or stop/cancel button pushed, it stops beeping for a minute, then starts again. I really love the rest of the oven and would like the beeping to stop. Suggestions from GE please?

  • Anonymous Jun 11, 2008

    I have an old kenmore double oven model P7 that the timer goes off for no apparent reason and will not shut off easily. Any ideas?

  • graytay57 Nov 12, 2008

    f7 flashing

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Powerman
  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: Ge Electric Double oVen

This may be related to a problem I have helped others solve. The solution is available free at my website. I have at last count helped over 1000 oven owners with a similar problem. http://fp1.centurytel.net/Powerman/Dreaded%20F7%20Problem.pdf Hope it works for you too.

Posted on Aug 09, 2007

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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: ge double oven

I believe this is because it takes a while for your oven to cool down (the cleaning cycle uses a very high temperature to burn up the grease and food). The timer is how long it takes before it will be cool, at which time the oven will unlock.

Posted on Aug 31, 2008

  • 492 Answers

SOURCE: My GE Oven heating element and timer clock went

Try unplugging the oven and let sit for 10 min. This will reset the curcuit board and reboot the electronics. You may have to pull out the stove o get to the cord.

Posted on Apr 30, 2009

tbirdfan1
  • 3051 Answers

SOURCE: f1 beeping

hello there:
Please read this carefully and follow the tips and this will help you find out what is exactly the problem ok
How to test many brands of Ranges that are flashing a F1 fault code: You have either a bad ERC (clock) or a bad touch pad.

  1. Disconnect power to stove
  2. Gain access to the back of the clock (electronic range control or ERC).
  3. Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This will be a flat wire approx. 1 1/2" to 2" wide.
  4. Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on.
  5. Turn power back on to stove.
  6. Watch for the F1 and listen for the beep.
  7. If you get the F1 and beep, replace the ERC.
  8. If after approx. 30 minutes you do NOT get the F1 and hear the beep, replace the touch pad.
    NOTE: Some models incorporate the touch pad and the clock as one part. * We have seen a few of the newer Maytag ranges with a F1 fault code and the problem was the oven temp sensor, check carefully the wires to and from the oven temp sensor!!

Posted on Jan 12, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: GE Profile Double Oven F1 Error

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
&*&^%rt

Posted on Oct 01, 2010

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