Question about Whirlpool Kitchen Ranges
Model GLP85800 The oven stopped heating and we replaced the bake element (which was very obviously blown). Now the oven will heat to 350, but takes a very, very long time. The broil element appears to work fine and gets evenly red if we set the oven to broil. The bake element is hidden so I am unable to see if it is turning on. We have double checked the installation and it looks fine. When the bake element blew, could it have knocked out something else? My next though was to replace the oven sensor but I am worried about spending $100s on parts only to have to call in a repairman anyway.
Yes, it is very possible that when the bake element burned out, it may have shorted out to the case of the oven, and burned up the relay on the control board. If you have a voltmeter (and feel comfortable in doing this), remove the back of the oven, and measure the voltage across the bake elements when you set the oven to some bake temperature. Be careful, you are dealing with 240 volts AC here! IF you don't have any voltage anywhere near 240 V while on bake, then you probably have a bad electronic oven control. If you have just 120 volts, then check your voltage at your power cord or (better) at the junction box at the back of the range. You should have 120 volts from the center (white or green) wire to either the red or black wire; and 240 volts from the red to the black wire. Now IF you have 240 volts across the terminals of the bake element, then you may have gotten the wrong bake element (wrong wattage - lower watts than the original). Maybe you ordered the wrong one, or maybe they put the wrong one in the box.
Posted on Nov 27, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I would be looking at the bake relay on teh coven control board. Using a voltage meter test the output voltage when energizing the bake feature. Be sure to remove the bake element wire coming from the bake element to the control. Test this terminal without the bake element wire attached. From the terminal with one meter probe to the neutral on the terminal block (where your cord attaches to), you should read 110 volts when energized and 0 voltge when shut off. What are you reading? If I can help further, I am here.....
Waiting to hear from you,
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
If the surface elements work your ERC is bad.(clock).
If the surface elements do not work check the circuit for 220 volts.
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
It appears your ERC/CLOCK has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...
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PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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