After removing aair filter. on lt side is a tiny plastic tube about one inch long with a tiny spring inside. the tubing is partially split. what is this parts function ?? saw starts & runs good though
I think you are looking at the fuel tank breather pipe. The AV just means; anti vibration. My Stihl parts list shows it as 1117 350 5800 Tank vent.(Plastic Tube) And 1120 358 8105 Vent Insert. Its basically a small plastic tube with a restrictor in it that vents the tank. Only repair it if there is gas leaking. A local shop would help or go online.
SOURCE: Stihl Super Wood Boss 028AV sputters but won't run
sounds like the fuel pump is bad in carb get a carb kit and rebuild it and check the fuel line from carb to to the filter in tank and if that is a two stoke eng with oil in gas do not run on ether will most likely burn up eng
SOURCE: Echo pole saw boggs aand wont reach high rpm. I
If you must choke it for it to run it is lean. Have you attempted a carburetor adjustment? Start with "H" and "L" at 1.5 CCW from lightly seated. Then try this:
Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com
http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm
CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly.
Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run.
There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full – not highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too.
An air leak where the carburetor bolts to the engine or the intake manifold can also cause this. If an adjustment does not or has not fixed this I suggest you try your friendly neighborhood Stihl shop. Explain everything you have done to a mechanic there. Good saw shops pressure test the crankcase, fuel lines, and intakes. They have test equipment homeowners do not. Explain what you have already done and ask for a repair estimate. I think you will be pleasantly surprised. Not all small engine mechanics are created equal... why I recommend Stihl. The odds of finding a good mechanic at a certified Stihl shop are in your favor. If not already using 50:1 fuel mix, please ask the Stihl shop what they recommend. Echo on their site has a statement equivalent to "regardless of what your manual says use 50:1". HTH
Lou
Testimonial: "Thanks for the advice. I dont see any adjustment screws for high or low on this carb. Its on a ppf 210- Echo power pruner"
SOURCE: ryobi chainsaw pcn4040 - oil not being pumped onto
C. Both A and B. Is it the original bar? Has it ever worked with this bar? Yes continue, no reply below (first). Is there an oiler adjustment?
I know you did this, I have OCD. Good on you for checking.
Oil System Plugged:
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL).
I did not see a match to your model. If you can find it the exploded parts list with disassembly/reassembly. Also provide part numbers, where components are located, very helpful.
Homelite/Ryobi.com (authorized parts supplier)
https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here.
The numbers Homelite & Ryobi use do not match the numbers everyone posts. A careful inspection of your saw should find something that matches.
The 3 models I found all had inboard clutches and the oil pump behind them. Start with this:
R² Drive Link Inboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUbSIHMSSP8
The C-clips tend to fly when being removed. Please wear eye protection and exercise care.
Continue like this with the remaining pieces.
R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Lou
SOURCE: How to remove plastic limiter cap on (H) carburetor adjustment
If plastic cap is present, it should just pop off with a thin sharp hook. Look carefully at the screw heads--they may be 'D' heads which require a special screwdriver and are supposed to keep owners from moving the screws (thank the EPA for these). Only authorized saw servicing dealers have access to these tools and therefore are the only folks allowed to adjust these saws. Being nonconformist, I made my own by drilling the center of a 1/4" rod, sawed off one side somewhat and welded a flat across the cut. Hope this helps!
SOURCE: I need a diagram to see how to replace the fuel
The large hole in the tank brings a line from the filter to the upper carburetor fitting. The lower carburetor fitting goes to the primer inlet (which is found by plug and try). The short line from the tank goes to the outlet of the primer. With fuel mix in the tank, try one of the ports in the primer with the line from the carburetor. If correct, the primer bulb will fill with fuel--otherwise, try the other primer port and see if fuel will come into the bulb. This may take over 6 pumps if the carburetor is empty of fuel. Did you check the fuel filter for plugging? If it was ok, and with new lines, fuel should pump into the primer provided the carburetor is not plugged itself. If the problem seems to center on the carburetor, be sure to check the diaphragm in the lower chamber for flexibility--no holes or cracks. Also, there is a very small filter screen in the mid-body section that may be plugged. Use spray carburetor cleaner to clean the carburetor inside and out. When you get fuel to come into the bulb, the short line from the tank goes to the empty port. Hope some of this helps!
184 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×