When I hook up the adaptor to the tap to fill the washer it doesn't seal properly. I have tried everything...switching things around, new washers etc...nothing works. What do I do or where can I buy a new complete adaptor..?
I found the problem to be the tap nozzle that was supplied when I bought the washer, it didn't work at all. I ended up going to Home Depot and picking up another one, it has been working well since then.
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Another problem could be the inlet solenoid is failing to close properly, this could be caused by either an obstruction in the sealing part of the solenoid valve, a damaged or worn out seal or if the water pressure is too low. (some solenoids require water pressure to close off properly). To test this idea turn off the taps when not in use. If the water is still filling the tub, the back flow / syphoning idea may be valid. Also just to rule the idea out, turn off the tap to the machine and remove the inlet hose, if the tap "drips" this "trickle" of water maybe the culprit. If turning off the inlet tap fixes the problem you may need to replace the inlet solenoid.
g'day, sounds like the leak is coming from the hose - this is because the leak is occurring when its off. Check seals on hose at the back of machine. You can always find old sets of hoses as well (or buy them), so you can try swapping them over.
Keep in mind, with washing machine hoses (like gardening hoses), the seal is at the rubber washers not the thread on the tap... so plumbers tap will not stop a leak, it will hinder the seal.
An alternative solution is simply turn tap's off between washes...
Turn off the water supply to the machine and remove the water supply hose(s) from both the machine and the supply taps (US=faucets).
Check that there is a rubber sealing washer in the each end of all hoses and that each washer is undamaged. If the washer is missing then chack on both the supply tap and on the machine inlet connection as it could have got stuck on those items when you disconnected. If any washers cannot be found or are damaged, then replace them. They only cost pennies from any DIY/hardware/plumbing store.
Reconnect the hose(s) and tighten by hand. If you use a wrench it can overtighten and distort or split the sealing washer. Turn on the water supply and check for leaks, if there are any then tighten any leaking connections a bit more by hand.
Other things to check are for split or damaged hoses (unlikely), split or damaged tightening collars on the hoses, or cross-threaded collars. If there is any doubt about the hoses themselves or the connector collars, then replace them. Also check that the leak isn't from the supply taps themselves. If so, then they either need to be replaced, serviced or removed and refitted to the supply pipes. If you find it is a supply tap problem and you need assistance with that issue then please report back for more guidance if you need it.
Note that there is absolutely no need nor benefit in applying PTFE plumbers tape to the hose connection threads. The washer is what does the sealing, and as the hose collars are plastic they're not going to corrode onto any metal supply taps.
Or you could have only the cold water hose hooked up and selecting hot wash only. Or you have the hot hose hooked up only and selecting cold wash only. Try selecting a warm wash and see if you get cold or hot water only. If you do, you'll know which is missing.
Check first if leaking from hoses or under the machine. Undo your taps, check that the hoses rubber seals haven't worn out. Replace rubber seals, most hardware plumbing sections have them. Also if the actual tap is leaking at the wall, you will have to change the tappets. You will need to close your main water at the timer, then undo the actual knobs, depending on the tap. Once opened take out tappets and replace with copper ones rather than plastic. Then put all back together and switch water on and check if leaking. In case it is the washing machine, try to replace hose or the connector on the back of machine. Make sure also all rubber seals are replaced with new ones. If under machine you will need a plumber. See how you go!
E10 is a timeout code. I found the answer on google by refining my search criteria. The tap was not turned on enough for the washer to fill up in time before the timeout was reached. After restarting the washer and turning the tap on further, the washer cycle completed without error.