Heyy I have a problem with my kawasaki kx 85. I replaced the front+ rear sprockets and drive chain but didn't leave enough slack so when I started the bike It drove fine in 1st then I put it in 2nd and the bike lost all power and hasn't started since. Please help

Any time a chain comes off it means there's slack in it or something's not tight enough. Not looking at your bike, I would have to guess that you need to loosen the bolts on the back wheels and then pull the wheel assemblies back until the chain is tight. This is probably a two person job, one to unbolt and bolt and one to apply tension. That being said, many years ago I remember bikes my friends used had a problem where if they were riding at a good speed and then stopped peddling to coast, then slightly reversed peddling, then started fast peddling again, that they would throw a chain. I think what was happening was they were creating slack in the chain by coasting, slightly reversing their peddling, then starting again. The chains were also slightly gummed up, allowing slack at this time.

It sound like its just the seal in the casing through which the drive shaft emerges.Straight forward job to replace. (Workshop manual for your bike can show you step by step)

Provided you have not been in an accident that has bent your frame,upper and lower triple tree, or forks, the only alignment you can make is to adjust your chain. If the the front wheel is not tracking with the back wheel you just have an improperly adjusted chain. On each side of the swing arm by the rear axle are two chain adjuster cam/wheels. The have numbered bump/stops. Both chain adjusters should be set in the same numbered bump/stop to align the front and rear chain sprockets and the front and rear wheel tracking. the adjusters are on the machine for the purpose of setting the amount of chain slack. Your chain should not be too tight or too loose. If you grab your chain in the middle and push it up and down, you should have a slack measurement of 1 1/4 inches from the bottom edge of the chain to the top edge of the chain. If the setting is off the best way to make the adjustment is to raise the rear wheel off of the ground. A race bike stand is very helpful for this and oiling and caring for your chain. Harbor freight tools sells a cheap rear stand for about $35 (buy the cheaper one piece non-collapseable stand). Pull out the cotter pin, loosen the axle bolt, turn both adjusters till you have the correct amount of slack and they are both set to the same number. Tighten the axle and recheck the slack. If you notice when spinning the rear wheel that the chain goes tight then slack, you have a stretched section of chain. If this is the case you should replace the chain and any worn sprockets at this time.

It sounds like the bike needs a new chain and probably new front and rear sprockets as well. The sprocket teeth should have a rounded blunt end. Do the replacement of chain and sprockets and then see if the tambourine has gone away. If not, I would dissasemble the rear wheel and brake for inspection. Loose or broken parts, wheel bearings gone bad or brake assembly problems may be present. Please rate my answer.

Typical chain slack should be about two inches from bottom edge of the chain to the top. Grabbing the chain in the middle (halfway from sprocket to sprocket) and moving it up and down. After adjusting , you should raise the rear wheel off the ground and spin the back wheel checking every 6 inches or so that the slack does not get tighter or looser. If the chain gets tighter as it goes around the sprocket it is an indication that the chain is stretched at that point and needs to be replaced.

Get the rear wheel off the ground and adjust the chain tension. When checking the tension spin the rear wheel and check that the tension does not go slack or get tighter. If the chain is riding up and down the sprocket teeth then the chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. This is the grinding/clunking noise you are hearing. If the sprockets are worn consider a chain and sprocket set, it can be a less expensive option than buying the parts separately.

Usually you want about 1 -1.6 inches (35-40 mm) from the bottom of the chain to the bottom of the chain when you grab the bottom chain about halfway between the rear sprocket and the front sprocket and move up and down.You should also left the rear wheel off the ground and rotate the chain around both sprockets checking the slack at all points of the chain. If while rotating wheel the chain gets tighter or looser this is a sign that your chain has stretched in one short section and should be replaced. If left on the bike it will either wear out the sprockets a lot faster than normal rate or the chain could break possibly damaging the engine case (very expensive).

I am assuming when you say changing from high gear to low gear you are talking about changing the chain drive gears if so yes it can be difficult because the rear wheel must be removed and also the front sprocket must be held stationary in order to unscrew the hold down nut, this is usually the hardest part of the job but not impossible. Don't forget that most people that change the sprockets to increase off the line torque usually change the sprocket in sets unless you want to shorten or lengthen the chain, sometimes this si neccessary other times the chain slack adjustment range will allow you to get away with not needing to lengthen the chain, this only applies to people who decide not to chain the sprockets as a set.

usually kawazaki zxr 400 has these problem the main reason is due to the overspeed.only authorised kawazaki dealer can solve it.....

Wind the chain through the rear sprockets, grab a hold of the rear sprocket and rotate the smaller sprocket towards the pedal, that should give you enough slack to put the chain on the front sprockets