Seal on top will not let cap close

buy a new radiator cap and check if it leaks. or pressurized your radiator for leaks and tight your top hose clamp. Do hose camp first then buy radiator cap and last pressurized.

Before you remove the fork loosen the top triple clamp on the fork you want to remove. Now loosen the top cap of the fork. Loosen the bottom triple clamp and slide the fork out of the bike. Remove the top cap of the fork.There is spring pressure pushing against the cap, but if the fork is not being compressed it not difficult to take off or to put back on. When it is removed pour the oil in to a container and reinstall the cap. In stall the cap all the way but you don't have to tighten it.
Slide the dust cap up and off of the fork without scratching any of the chrome. Now remove the "C" clip or spring that was under the dust seal and place with the dust seal.Flip the fork upside down to access the allen head bolt in the bottom of the fork. Using an impact driver break this loose. Once loose remove the top cap and spring from inside. Now remove the the bottom bolt. Holding both tubes of the fork compress and snap apart quickly. This might take a few times but the should come apart rather easily.

If the coolant was hot when you noticed water coming out the radiator, that is normal from the heat expansion of the coolant. That is why there are coolant overflow tanks-also called coolant expansion tanks.
When refilling coolant, always top up the radiator, and fill the overflow tank to at least the cold mark level (about half-way up on the tank). With cap off, run engine till the thermostat opens- upper radiator hose will become hot-then shut off engine, add coolant to radiator as needed, replace cap. This method of filling will help to expel any trapped air in the system. Oh, and remember to set your heater controls on high when filling coolant, so the heater core and lines also circulate and expel air.
Check the seal on the radiator cap that it is still good. The cap seal is important to seal the coolant system, as it is a closed system under about 15 psi of pressure. The reason to pressurize the system is that the pressure will raise the boiling point of the coolant by about 10 degrees- important when you consider how hot the coolant has to be when running. OK, enough tutorial-I don't think you have a problem with the water pump! G'd luck, reeve.

Seems peculiar to me there's so much pressure on a drain hose. Are you pumping to a drain much higher than the top of the washer?

Just pumping water out of a drain hose shouldn't create much pressure unless the hose is kinked or restricted. Look for that problem first. You could get a hose clamp from an auto parts store that's much more reliable than the spring clamps you're describing. I would try that on the inside and outside connection and see if it solves the problem.

there should be no pressure inside of this line at any time, it should be open to the ice maker (unless its frozen closed) it usually has a small hose clamp at the top end if its missing you could get another one, that hose should just be able to be pulled out of the fitting (at the top end) you could try a bit of silicone sealent on the hose and thenpush it in to the fitting. but really there should be no leaking at the top anyway if the line is not frozen closed?

You need prop the bike up on front and rear stands. The fron stand needs to be the type that holds the bike up by the headtube. Remove brake calipers, front wheel, fender. Then loosen the upper and lower triple clamps. Loosen the clip ons. But before loosening the lower triple, loosen the fork tube top caps.

Drop out the legs. take off the top caps, pour out the oild, and compress the spring. I'd use a fork compressor, race tech makes a nice one. Loosen the top cap from the damping rod. Remove the top cap then pump out the rest of the oil from the damper.

Next, remove the outer dust seal. Remove circlip. Then you need to just extend the fork several times quickly to "bang" out the oil seal and bushings.

The outer bushings, if they look good, need to be gently pryed off using a thin flat head screw driver in the **** of the bushing. Same with the inner bushing. Now the oil seal, metal washer and circlip all come out together. Remember the order.

Lube up the new seals with fresh oil. put back on the fork lowers in the same order they were taken off. Replace bushings at the same time if there's any brass showing. I usually do it any way since the seals seem to go at the same rate as the bushings for me.

Once back together, seat the seals. There's a tool for this, but I usually **** the old oil seal so I can get it on the lower fork tube between the new oil seal and new dust seal. and I quickly compress (bang) the fork a few times until the groove on the upper leg is showing so the circlip will lock back on. Probably not recommended but I haven't ruined a dust seal in about 20 years now.

Fill fork with proper oil viscosity and volume (don't remember how much or weight for zx7s). cycle the damper about 20 times to make sure they're full of oil too. insert spring, re-compress, lock on top cap to damping rod. screw on top cap. reassemble fork on bike. Remember to torque the top cap with the top triple clamp loose otherwise the caps can bind.

EVAP Emission Control System - Small Leak Detected (1.0 mm). This code can be set when 1. fuel filler cap is not completely tight, 2. when various hoses get punctured or the canister close valve does not seal completely, 3. there is an actual leak in the charcoal canister, fuel tank, or other EVAP system component, 4. if any one of these components are malfunction (a), fuel tank pressure sensor, (b) purge control solenoid valve, (c) canister close valve, or (d) fuel cap. An engine vacuum leak would not set this code, Usaly there is a sensor on fuel tank called Evap controll switch that has failed

Here is a diagram of your forks:
http://216.37.204.203/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaMC.asp?Type=13&A=140&B=28
Assuming you have already removed your fork cap, you will need to remove the clip # 5 and the bolt # 18 then in a slide hammer type action, pull the upper tube out of the lower tube. There is a washer underneath the fork seal that will pull the fork seal out with the upper tube, so you have to compress the fork tube, then give it a good yank to pull the seal and separate the tubes.

A couple of tips here. First, to loosen the fork cap, loosen the top triple tree pinch bolt at each fork leg before removing the forks from the bike, then loosen the fork cap. You don't have to take the cap off at this time, but break it loose. It is very difficult to hold the fork tube and prevent it from turning once the fork is off the bike and out of the clamp. It is much easier to break it loose and leave it finger tight before dropping the forks out of the triple clamps. The key thing to remember is loosen the pinch bolt before attempting to loosen the cap. The pinch bolt applies extra pressure to the cap and can complicate the process of loosening the cap if left tight.
The other tip would be to use a 3/8" air impact wrench to loosen the allen bolt in the bottom of the fork leg. The internals will want to spin if you try to do it by hand.

General intructions for most bikes:

Remove front wheel. Loosen fork tube clamps at top and bottom of triple clamps. Slide fork tubes out and remove. Access to seals is from top of tube. Remove cover and unscrew cap. Shop manual for specific bike is $24-$30. Will show detailed instructions.

Good luck;
Techjoel

Check the following while running the engine, with coolant topped up:
The plastic reservoir bottle could be cracked check for leaks.
One or more of the hose-clamps aren't sealing well enough.Re-tighten or replace.
The radiator cap seal is torn or broken this would be obvious by steam and/or sputtering water at cap level.Replace cap.
The radiator might have sprung a leak or rusted through.Repair or replace radiator.
The cooling hoses may have perished.Replace.
Check around the water pump as one of it's seals or bearings me be worn out.Repair or replace.
Hope that helps! Good luck!