Each floodlight is on its own separate 120 volt circuit
1) Install 14 z-wave switches or micro-switches ( one inside each light switch box) and control all 14 switches using vera lite
Set scene for times you want
Install repeater modules to by-pass distance and concrete-wall problems
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWBNAU/?tag=waterheaterti-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/?tag=waterheaterti-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007005364/?tag=waterheaterti-20
Note: Z-wave gets expensive and is complicated.
Rule of thumb... if you like messing with all the buttons on your TV remote control, you will love z-wave.
Resource explaining roughly what z-wave is about
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Intermatic-CA3750.html
2) Cheaper solution... but no remote control... is to install a programmable timer in place of each light switch.
Additional problem is ON at dusk and OFF at 9 pm.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Programmable.html#st01
Gene
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7
SOURCE: I have a T103 Intermatic timer controlling the
Let's review your wiring. There's probably something miswired when you get symptoms like that. Let's work one circuit at a time.
For circuit #1, the incoming (LINE) black (hot) wire is connected to the #3 terminal. The white (neutral) is connected to the "A" terminal. The bare equipment grounding wire is connected to the "GR" terminal (the green screw on the case).
The outgoing (LOAD) black wire to the first set of lights is connected to terminal #4 and the outgoing white (neutral) wire connects to the "A" terminal. The outgoing bare wire to the lights goes to the "GR" terminal. It's best to twist the wires together with a pigtail, wirenut them and connect the pigtail to the "GR" terminal.
Now for separate circuit #2. The incoming (LINE) black (hot) connects to terminal #1. The incoming white (neutral) connects to terminal "A". The incoming bare wire connects to the "GR" terminal.
The outgoing (LOAD) black wire to the 2nd set of lights connects to the #2 terminal. The outgoing white (neutral) goes to the "A" terminal. It's OK to twist all the white neutral wires (incoming _and_ outgoing for _both_ circuits) together with a pigtail that goes to the "A" terminal. Use a red wirenut.
As long as you don't load the 15 amp breaker over 12 amps (this is considered a continuous circuit and it cannot be loaded over 80% per NEC), you don't have to have two circuits if you don't want too. Figure about 1 amp per light as long as the lights aren't over 100 watt. (100 watt lamp/120 volts = 0.83 amps (round to one amp)
SOURCE: I installed the 120 vac
If you have voltage drop it would not effect the clock motor it would effect the light farthest from the house.Every 75 from the power source the wire needs to be the next larger size up. Example #12 to #10 to#8 to#6etc
SOURCE: I installed a GE 15071
If more than 1 timer is doing same thing, then suspect could be circuit or interference from Load.
Try timer on different circuit, on different circuit breaker.
Use cheap circuit analyzer from home center to test nearby outlet.
Otherwise, if you are buying timer from Home Depot, then maybe that specific batch of timers is bad.
I have tested 15071, and it is solid 7-day single-pole programmable timer without astro dawn-to-dusk feature.
Open following link to download on-line manual.
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15071
You can also buy same-feature Utilitec 0141224 7-day Timer at Lowes.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Program-wire-Utilitec-0141224.html
Add a comment with your experience so others with similar problem can benefit.
Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.
SOURCE: malibu 8100-0300-01
Promoters should include useful information. Not just air-head fluff.
Copy following link for actual useful do-it-yourself information such as warranty, troubleshoot, operation tips, manuals.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Malibu-power-pack-stopped-working.html
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7
1) Install arc fault breaker to the circuit and remove grfci
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#arc-fault
2) Test outlet with circuit analyzer for correct polarity and grounding,
Make sure there is not dual gfci protection on same outlet.
Move wire to different same-size circuit breaker.
Run another line to the same location.
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7
Fig. Fig. 5: Location of the aiming screws on most vehicles with sealed beam headlights
Fig. Fig. 6: Dual headlight adjustment screw locations-one side shown here (other side should be mirror image)
Fig. Fig. 7: Example of headlight adjustment screw location for composite headlamps
Fig. Fig. 8: Low-beam headlight pattern alignment
Fig. Fig. 9: High-beam headlight pattern alignment
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