Sensowash lid is OK but not seat

TAKE IT UP WITH THE MANUFACTURER

If it has gas charged shocks to support the trunk lid they may need to be replaced.

I had the same seat recliner/raiser problem and worked around it. There is a gear shaft that runs across the back of the drivers seat just behind the split between the seat and seat back. It is broken.

The motor that runs the gear shaft is located on the side of the seat closest to the drivers' door. It works fine but only moves the gears on the drivers door side of the seat. On the console side
of the seat the gear doesn't turn at all because the shaft is broken where it meets the gear on that side. You can see the end of the gear shaft on the outside of the seat hinge on the console side and if the shaft is broker it will not move when the lever is pushed to raise the seat back.

I removed the seat (basically pull off the plastic button covers, remove four seat bolts, and disconnecting two wiring harness clips) and I was able to raise the seat "manually" as follows:

On the very end of the gear shaft itself you'll see a small alignment groove in it that would normally align with another groove on the seat hinge frame. (I suppose when they are aligned, that is the factory setting for the upright seat back position)

I put a straight slot screwdriver in the groove on the gear shaft and used a hammer to drive the gear clockwise (to raise the seat back; you'd go counter-clockwise to lower it).
With each hammer strike the gear moved a little bit until the grooves were aligned. The angle of the seat back raised a bit with each clockwise movement of the gear shaft. (I actually went a little further than the alignment of the markers to assure the seat was raised far enough). When I was satisfied with the seat back position, I reconnected and rebolted the seat.

Anyway, the seat back is now raised to about where I wanted it. The shaft is still broken, of course, and the vertical motor is now bound up and doesn't work... so this is now my permanent driving position... but it's much better than driving with the seat reclined!
And for a 1998 Avalon XLS with over 300,000 miles, I can certainly live with that.

Hope this helps someone else. I'll be pleased to answer any questions you may have.

something is blocking the track... make sure seat belts are not getting caught in the track...

Chances are excellent you have a very minor problem. On most machines the agitation or spinning will stop when you raise the lid. So that is normal.

What we need to know is are the clothes getting spun out? If the machine is spinning the clothes and they are coming out plastered to the sides of the tub, we are in good hands. If at this point the clothes really aren't getting washed well, you probably just need a part called dog agits. These are very cheap and well worth the repair.

If the clothes are not getting spun out at all and you are having problems with agitation it is still ok. At this point you probably just have a part broken that is called a coupler. A coupler goes in between the motor and transmission and transfers power. These machines use these couplers instead of a belt.

So, from your description of "Agitator does not spin. Stops when lid is raised. Water does drain.", we can say with certainty that it is ok that the machine stops when the lid is raised. Also, your pump is working since your water is getting drained. The agitation is what we need to work on.

Your machine has a lid switch that can be pushed with your finger or an object like a pencil or screwdriver. On the bottom of the lid there is a plastic "strike". It is just a piece of plastic that sticks out. And when the lid is closed, it pushes down on the lid switch. What you need to do is push down on the lid switch in the same fashion. This way you can watch the machine as it agitates and figure out what it is doing :) Please post a comment if you have any further questions and I'd be glad to help !

The control switch has developed a problem (intermittent contact or just broke inside) Replace the switch. That should fix it.

Yes I fixed my washer problem.
The washer was stopping before it would drain and spin. I would raise the lid and then close it back and it would start back up. So we figured the lid switch was broke.

Before you do anything you "unplug" the washer!
You have to pop the ends off the back panel with the buttons on it. Then you unscrew the 2 screws at the bottom of the panel and raise it up. Then you remove the brass clips that are holding the lid on. Then you move the whole washing machine cabinet out. My husband replaced the lid switch. Then we had to figure out how to get the cabinet back on right. That took some time but we did it. Then you repeat everything you did to take it off to put it back together.

The washer is working fine now.

In the middle of the seat itself, there will be a loop you can pull and the actuall seat part will flip up

2007 Pontiac G6 retractable top engine swithed off while raising, top continued to close in compartment right side upper forward pad looking thing popped and the compartment would not close, however the top will raise and go back in place, cannot leave top in compartment since the trunk lid will not close over the stored top..........

ck lid screws especially on newer models on these the lid switch is located left rear corner just behind lid hinge if switch is on right side close lid slowly and listen for click if none heard try pressing down on lid at switch location if washer starts replace switch if switch lever broke change switch..on other type switch lower lid slowly and listen for click if none heard and hinge screws ok raise lid and push lid hinge toward back slightly and try again still no click raise console switch is on left and just snaps in place