Motor is running but would not feed wood into machine

Two things I can think of. One, you don't have enough voltage to the motor, and two, you're overloading the motor by feeding material too fast. If you run too long an extension cord to the saw, it can drop the voltage significantly (you don't mention if this is in a shop or on the job) and cause the motor to kick out. Use a larger diameter wire 10 or 12 gauge to help this. If it kicks out when you're cutting, simply slow down the rate at which you feed your wood and allow the motor to keep up.

If this occurs simply when you turn the saw on, you may have a defective motor.

It may be that the motor is under powered for the load, but more likely it sounds like the motor is defective. Perhaps some of the windings have shorted. That might allow the blade to spin, but stop under any load. What brand and model is this saw?

My bet is that the motor is designed for 220/240 (single or three phase), but you're running in on 110 single phase. If the belt were slipping it would sound like the belt on a car (you know when someone starts their car and belt is loose and goes "Sccrreeeeeee" until the rev the engine and make the belt catch up to the pully).

The power in wood working motors is such that it should be very difficult to slow down the motor if you're feeding at a slow rate. But, if the motor needs 220 and you're powering with 110, then the motor will have no power (the magnets in the motor are matched with the voltage - and if you have the wrong voltage you won't get any power and the speed will be very slow).

Typically the "home" or "residential" tools only run on 110, but if you have a larger unit they can be wired for 220 or 110. If you bought the planer used, they may have been running with 220 and now you're powering with 110 (or vice versa). I'd do a quick google search for your unit to see what it's capable of. Or, just take the model number of the motor (not the planer) and search for that.

Typically, motors can be run at 110 or 220 for larger wood working tools. Inside the metal housing where the wire feeds into are a number of wires to connect to. These wires have numbers on them (either a tag or printed on the wire insulation) and you attach them a certain way for 110 and a different way for 220. Sometimes you can even change the direction of the motor - SO BE CAREFULL IF YOU REWIRE IT! don't power it up all the way on the first try. Just start it and then stop it while the motor is still coming up to speed. While the planer is still spinning (even though the motor is off) feed your board in slowly and you'll be able to tell which way the motor is spinning. If you get the wrong direction on your motor you can shoot boards across the shop (or out into the street if you're in the garage - like I did).

There is probably a reset button on the motor. Usually a small red button near the end of the motor. Push that then re try starting.

You said, "wood chips won't advance." That may be the problem, the Bradley Smoker doesn't use wood chips. It uses a manufactured wood chip biscuit, that looks like a small hockey puck. These will feed automatically when the smoker calls for them. Loose wood chips won't.

Hi. It means two things to me.
1. You may be trying to get it to cut too much in one pass. Cut less, and cut twice, or even three times. You'll get a smoother finish with less deformities in the wood.
2. When you say ridges, it can be several things, depending on how they appear. If the ridges are running across the board and parallel to the cutter head, this would make me believe in the "you're feeding the machine too much too fast" theory. If the ridges are running long ways down the board, this usually indicated a nick in the blades.
Regards, W/D

This could have many causes...depending on the model of saw, the wood being cut, the blade you're using, etc. etc.
Check that the blade is correctly installed, up to tension, and sharp. Make sure the wheels run smoothly on their on, and under power. Check the horsepower of the motor, and make sure to keep the feed rate down within the motor's capacity. Finally, don't twist the work being cut to a smaller radius than the size blade will handle, or you will bind the blade in the cut.
If you are cutting wood with pitch or grain that is likely to be under tension, perhaps you need to insert a wedge into the cut to prevent the work from pinching the blade as it continues the cut.
I hope that leads to a solution. Sometimes all you can do is feed slowly and be patient...

Does the motor continue to run, but the arm stops? It sounds like the set screw on the motor shaft is loose. See the exploded view at this link. It's called out as # 97 http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/Products/DocumentView.aspx?productid=5682&typeId=3475&documentId=333

Check you have the correct WFR installed and the right contact tip. re set the tensioner, do this by releasing all the tention from the wire untill the drive moves but does not until the wire starts feeding, on a piece of wood, run the wire and this should be a nice feed without faultering, apply a little more tention if required, by stopping the wire by hand, the rollers should move without the wire tangleing up.

Make sure you're using a sharp blade, and try not to feed to fast for the motor to keep up. Make sure the belts are adjusted properly, ie not slipping.
Try not to use too long or light guage an extension cord to plug into, and make sure the power source where you are plugged in has enough amperage to run your motor without starving it for power.
Otherwise, it could just be a limitation of the motor and the hp of that saw. You'll have to be patient and feed slowly, or upgrade to a heavier duty saw.
What you're describing is undoubtedly the bane of many a weekend woodworker, but the alternative doesn't always come cheap.
Best of luck!

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!