Husqvarna chainsaw replacing crank shaft bearings.

You will fully disassemble the engine as you must the cylinder from the crankcase. Husqvarna only sells the seals with the bearings they must be pressed on to the bearings. Since the 136 uses the same bearing set as the 141 you can order a set seals for the 141. In this the old seals must be pressed off first.
Here is a link to a site that sales the 141 seals.
Husqvarna oil seals set fits 36 136 141 142

you need a bearing puller

I guess we are talking the bearing in the clutch drum, to replace this you need to remove the side cover nuts and remove the side cover/chainbrake, make sure the brake is de activated by pulling the hand guard fully back to the top handle before removing it, the clutch has a 15mm centre nut, jar the clutch off against the compression of the saw with a suitable socket and speed brace, if you have an impact wrench this will remove the clutch in seconds, the clutch is just spun onto the crank with a left hand thread, turn clockwise to remove, once off the drum and bearing will just come off the crank for replacment.

Let me give you some info. I guess you are talking about the bearing next to the fly wheel. The crankshaft has to come completely out. the crank can not be removed until you have removed the rods from the crank shaft pin. Most of the time if a bearing goes bad you need to replace the rods and crank shaft pin. I 've never done it but if you can get the rods out of the way the crank will come out. My recommendation would be, remove the fly wheel, remove the inner cooler, remove any small tubing lines, Remove the front frame cover, Remove the 2 bolts holding the crank pin bushing (don't forget to lock wire these bolts back together during assembly), Remove the cylinder, head, piston and rod together as a unit. Don't let the piston come out of the cylinder or move around to much unless replacing the rods. Once you get both LP and HP cylinders, heads etc off you can remove the front bearing cap exposing the bearing and a snap ring. Take a piece of wood or brass and from the crank shaft counter weight side (rod side)knock the crank shaft toward the fly wheel side until the snap ring can be removed. Once the snap ring is removed knock the crankshaft back toward the rod side and continue until out of the bearing races. Then remove the crank. The outer bearing can then be pressed off with the retainer at one time. Remove the sleeve. To remove the large bearing(back bearing) you need to be very careful and cut it off. Don't mess up the crank shaft. I've tried several ways to remove the back bearing but the easiest is cutting it off. To answer your question yes you have to disassemble to change bearings.

It may well be the drum bearing, if this is dry it will sqeek, you can grease this bearing through the end of the crank without removing the clutch, this bearing rotates on the crank if the saw is idling, it is not good to leave the machine idling for any lenght of time,it is always better to switch the machine off whilst moving logs ready for cutting, there is no sealing on the bearing so the grease is quickly lost, when the saw is cuttin the bearing is not in use as the drum rotates with the crank.

There should be bolts to remove on each outer end of the auger shaft, and the blower shaft must be removed from the rear bearing/pulley at the rear of the blower housing. Look for bolts to release the entire blower housing from the engine/drive section. On out Sears unit, there is a nut on the end of the engine crankshaft that allows the two drive belts to be removed. If you don't have the service manual, be sure to make notes of each part as it comes off of the machine (there will be many). Check the condition of each belt and also the rear bearing that the blower shaft came out of. The gear box at the front end of the blower shaft must come apart to release the auger shaft. This is not a job for the faint of heart! Good luck!

HI BUDDY YOU NEED TO STRIP THE ENGINE COMPLETELY REMOVING GEARS CLUTCH BASKET COGS ETC ONCE YOU HAVE GOTTEN TO THE CRANK SHAFT GET BACK TO ME WITH THE NUMBERS ON THE BEARING AND I WILL GET A SET ORDERED FOR YOU GET BACK TO ME IF YOU NEED MORE INFO

there is a special tool to seperate the carnk case halfs.looks like a "c" clamp.they are very expensive to buy.there is no other way to seperate the case halfs with out distroying them......

there is a special tool that pushes the crank shaft out of the bearings as it holds the bearings in the crank case.it looks like a big "c" clamp.they are about $150.00 or more to buy.mine cost me $125.00 ten years ago.

Use a piston stop to hold crank then use a spanner wrench to turn clutch counter clockwise to remove.