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Tara Hutter Posted on Oct 10, 2014

Which is the ground wire on a lightolier slider dimmer? White, black, or red?

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  • Posted on Oct 11, 2014
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  • Posted on Oct 10, 2014
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Neither, it will be a bare copper wire if there's a ground. White is neutral, black is power and red is 3 way to another switch.

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 2049 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 13, 2009

SOURCE: Have a Leviton dimmer with red, black and green

You are correct in assuming green is the ground and connects to bare copper wire. Black is always the HOT wire and should be attached to the black wire. Red wire connects to white wire.

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Anonymous

  • 332 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 07, 2010

SOURCE: i have a black wire a white wire and a ground

The red wire is your chase wire and needs to go all the way to the other switch

Anonymous

  • 107 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 10, 2010

SOURCE: Ok I am installing a dimmer to replace a switch I

I suggest contacting Lutron's tech support center at 1-800-523-9466. They're available 24/7 and can help you out.

Having said that, can I assume that the red, white and black are all coming from the same romex? If so, the trick to doing this properly is to understand how the 3-way switch at the other location is wired up. In other words, of the red, white, and black wires... only TWO of those wires are connected to the other 3-way switch (I'm assuming this is a 3-way circuit given that you bought a 3-way product). Once you've identified the color of those two wires, on the dimmer, attach each of those two wires to one of the red wires coming out of the dimmer. The remaining wire coming out of the wall (red, white, or black) should then connect to the black wire coming out of the dimmer.

Anonymous

  • 107 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 25, 2011

SOURCE: I am replacing a two

The best thing you can do in that situation is match the wire colors of the dimmer to the colors of the screw terminals on the switch you removed. Unfortunately, its too late for that - so here's my best guess: One of the black wires in the box will be coming from the same romex cable as the red wire. Take THAT black box wire and connect it to one of the red wires on the dimmer. Take the red box wire and connect it to the remaining red wire on the dimmer. Connect the black dimmer wire to the remaining black wire in the box. The two white connectors in the box get tied together - they don't get tied to the dimmer. And the ground (green) wire on the dimmer just connects to the bare ground connection in the box itself - or to the metal backbox - or cut it off and don't use it.

Steve

  • 3290 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 20, 2012

SOURCE: Installing a Lightolier 600VA general inductive dimmer switch.

Hi James, I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem.

From what you describe, the wiring in the switch box is for a standard, single pole switch or dimmer, and is not compatible with this replacement switch. Here's why: you stated that there are (2) wires in the box, a black and white insulated wire, that once fed a dimmer switch. Common wiring practices would suggest to most electricians that the white wire is the 120 volt "hot" supply and the black is the switched leg - or output of the switch to the fixture.

The replacement inductive dimmer switch is not a standard switch. It is designed to control inductive loads - or motors such as a fan. It does not simply control the flow of current - but actually uses a small amount of electricity to do this. This means it needs a complete 120 volt circuit consisting of a neutral and hot wire; and wire for the output of the switch to the motor. A total of insulated 3 wires. You have only two.

If you have a neutral in the box, you can use the switch if wire like this:

120 volt "hot" to the switch Black
120 volt "neutral" to the switch White
120 volt load wire (to motor) to the switch Red
The switch Yellow should be taped or capped off and is used only in a three way application.

The "arm switch" cuts power and the wheel is used to set low speed setting. You can see the info sheet here.

As mentioned above, this switch is used to control a motor - not a light. The same way a dimmer is used to control a light - not a motor. If you do not have access to a neutral in the box, you should either install one or, use a different switch. There are motor speed control switches that do not require a neutral wire and cost under $25.

If you need to control both light and fan there are products that are installed in the canopy of a paddle fan that will do this for under $50 and are operated via a wireless remote that can be secured to the wall such as those below:



4_20_2012_5_29_30_pm.jpg


4_20_2012_5_30_53_pm.jpg
These can be found at Home Depot, Lowes, and electrical supply stores.

I hope this was helpful & good luck!

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1helpful
1answer

Lightolier 3 way remote wiring

If you have determined the wiring to be correct, then yes, the remote is probably defective..

According to Lightolier literature, your Lightolier OS600 is called a "strap dimmer". Having 540W on a 600w rated switch is pretty close to the limit (90%) of the switch, and will cause the switch to fail sooner than say a 300w load. The 600w rating of the switch applies only if all the heating sink fins are in place. Often times, when installing in a box with another switch or dimmer, fins must be removed to allow the switch to physically fit. If any fins are removed, the rating of the switch is reduced. Page 30 of the manual shows that a 600w strap dimmer that has a single fine removed is reduced to a 500w capacity dimmer, and if both fins are removed, it is reduced to a 400w dimmer. You may find that you will need a 1000w dimmer to reliably gain control of your 540w load, as it will control 600w even with both fins removed. This derating is required due to the heat created by the dimmer. Heat is a killer for electronics, and solid state dimmers are no exception.

Check out page 32 of that manual. On it, are wiring diagrams for dimmers and switches. I believe your is figure "G" that shows the 120v "hot" (black) connected to the black wire of ALL switches, the yellow wires of ALL the switches are connected together, but are not connected to anything else, the 120v neutral (white) connects to the MASTER white wire AND light fixture white wire and finally, the MASTER red wire connects to the light fixture black wire.

It is also important to note that these switches are for standard tungsten incandescent and quartz halogen lamps ONLY. They are NOT suitable for CFL, Fluorescent or other types frequently found in commercial / industrial buildings such as neon or other gas lamps such as Metal Halide, Mercury Vapor, High Pressure Sodium, etc.

I hope this helps & good luck!
1helpful
1answer

Installing a Lightolier 600VA general inductive dimmer switch.

Hi James, I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem.

From what you describe, the wiring in the switch box is for a standard, single pole switch or dimmer, and is not compatible with this replacement switch. Here's why: you stated that there are (2) wires in the box, a black and white insulated wire, that once fed a dimmer switch. Common wiring practices would suggest to most electricians that the white wire is the 120 volt "hot" supply and the black is the switched leg - or output of the switch to the fixture.

The replacement inductive dimmer switch is not a standard switch. It is designed to control inductive loads - or motors such as a fan. It does not simply control the flow of current - but actually uses a small amount of electricity to do this. This means it needs a complete 120 volt circuit consisting of a neutral and hot wire; and wire for the output of the switch to the motor. A total of insulated 3 wires. You have only two.

If you have a neutral in the box, you can use the switch if wire like this:

120 volt "hot" to the switch Black
120 volt "neutral" to the switch White
120 volt load wire (to motor) to the switch Red
The switch Yellow should be taped or capped off and is used only in a three way application.

The "arm switch" cuts power and the wheel is used to set low speed setting. You can see the info sheet here.

As mentioned above, this switch is used to control a motor - not a light. The same way a dimmer is used to control a light - not a motor. If you do not have access to a neutral in the box, you should either install one or, use a different switch. There are motor speed control switches that do not require a neutral wire and cost under $25.

If you need to control both light and fan there are products that are installed in the canopy of a paddle fan that will do this for under $50 and are operated via a wireless remote that can be secured to the wall such as those below:



4_20_2012_5_29_30_pm.jpg


4_20_2012_5_30_53_pm.jpg
These can be found at Home Depot, Lowes, and electrical supply stores.

I hope this was helpful & good luck!
1helpful
1answer

I can't get the yellow wire of the dimmer slider to work properly using a conventional 3way switch on the other side. I do have the slider on the load box. Could it be that i need a Lightolier ZPR-3 on the...

Most of this style lightolier product requires the proper remote such as the zpr3. Leviton illumitech is a similar design, but uses regular 3 way wiring.
There are others out there as well, that do not require the remote.
1helpful
1answer

I would like to replace my lightolier zp600 dimmer to a zpr-3 that has the same wire wiring diagram as a zp600

The zp600 is the master, and the zpr-3 is the remote. With only one location you need to use the zp600. For multiple locations, you use the zp600 at the load side and zpr3's at other locations with all the yellows hooked together, and all the blacks hooked together except the black going right to the light. This hooks to the red at the zp600
0helpful
1answer

So, with that being said, if we assume the white wire in the box is actually acting as a second black wire, when I went to hook up the first dimmer switch, I connected the black wire in the box to one of...

The most likely candidate is the white wire. In a standard residential installation, the white wire is often the neutral connection - and wiring the dimmer hot to neutral will cause exactly what you described.

However, often times the white wire is instead a traveller wire being run to the switch from the fixture (which, it sounds like that's what you were assuming) - in which case, the other likely candidate would be having a loose power connection coming in contact with ground. Sometimes this can be a loose screw or, as you describe, a loose wire.

Your best choice would be to install a standard 50-cent light switch first. If you connect it together and it works - then you know a connection came loose and made a bad contact - so then you can try using another dimmer. If you connect it and the breaker trips - then you know you're using the wrong wires/connections.
0helpful
1answer

In my electrical box, I have one black, one white and one ground wire coming in. There is a single pole switch in the box now. Black goes to one terminal, white to the other terminal, and the ground to the...

With just two wires other than the ground in the box, both of which were connected to a single pole switch, one must be the incomming power and the other is connected to the load. You can find out which is which either by opening up the fixture box where you will probably find that it is conneted with two white wires or by very carefully positioning the wires so they each are far from touching anything, turning the power on, and testing to see which is hot.
If the dimmer you have does not require you to know the difference between the hot and load wire, then just connect the white and black wires to the dimmer. As the previous poster said, the white wire should have black tape on it.
0helpful
1answer

I have a black wire a white wire and a ground

The red wire is your chase wire and needs to go all the way to the other switch
0helpful
1answer

Have a Leviton dimmer with red, black and green wire. House wiring is black and white wire and copper wire. I assume that copper wire is ground and connects to green wire but I am not sure where the white...

You are correct in assuming green is the ground and connects to bare copper wire. Black is always the HOT wire and should be attached to the black wire. Red wire connects to white wire.
1helpful
1answer

End of Run Dimmer Switch Installation

The store doesn't know what they are talking about. And I can't believe they told you to just keep switching wires. Hitting the wrong wires is an easy way to short the dimmer switch out. Take it back and go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy the same type switch you took out.
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