Electrical Supplies Logo

Related Topics:

Anonymous Posted on Oct 09, 2014

My switched outlets dont work with the switch after i replaced them with 15 amp outlets, would this make a difference

2 Answers

Joseph Marquardt

Level 1:

An expert who has achieved level 1.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

New Friend:

An expert that has 1 follower.

Hot-Shot:

An expert who has answered 20 questions.

  • Contributor 25 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 31, 2014
Joseph Marquardt
Contributor
Level 1:

An expert who has achieved level 1.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

New Friend:

An expert that has 1 follower.

Hot-Shot:

An expert who has answered 20 questions.

Joined: Dec 31, 2014
Answers
25
Questions
0
Helped
4394
Points
57

If both outlets of the duplex recept are hot all the time you need to break off the jumper tab on the hot side of the recept. This way the switched wire coming from the switch will control one of the recept. of the duplex recept and the other one will be hot at all times.

Gene Haynes

Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

Superstar:

An expert that got 20 achievements.

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Master 5,391 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 10, 2014
Gene Haynes
Master
Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

Superstar:

An expert that got 20 achievements.

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

Joined: May 07, 2012
Answers
5391
Questions
0
Helped
2606359
Points
14124
Ad

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 5 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 22, 2009

SOURCE: New Single Feed switch/outlet not working

Hi there, first what is your porous for the device? Do you want the switch to feed the outlet or do you want the switch to be independent? (switch feed outlet)---- black feed to gold screw on switch. then from lower screw on same side to outlet (this should be black also)> remembering to tie neutrals with wire nut in rear with pig tale to switch. hope this helps.

Ad
A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Nov 13, 2010

SOURCE: I installed a new garbage disposal. The way I

It sounds like you put in ordinary wall switch.
You use the word 'pigtail' which implies electrical knowledge, so without a photo it's hard to tell where the switch is shorting the circuit.
You need a single-pole switch with 2 screws and a ground screw.
If you use a 3-way switch, your wires are connected to dark screw and one of the brass screw
You have 2 wires running between receptacle and disposal.
The wall switch interrupts one wire. Not both wires.
So one wire from receptacle runs continuously to disposal.
The other wire is cut and one end attaches to a switch screw, the other end of the cut wire attaches on the other switch screw.
The bare ground wire connects to green screw.
Preferably the Hot wire is cut.

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Dec 08, 2010

SOURCE: Cooper Industries Cooper Wiring 274W Switch and

Switch-plug combo:
bare ground goes to green screw
dark screw goes to hot from breaker
silver screw to neutral
brass screw goes to load (light)

Add a comment any time
You are replacing single pole light switch?
Single pole switch has 3 wires: black and red and bare copper

New device has 4 different colored screws: green, dark, brass, silver
Bare copper goes to green screw.
Black wire goes to dark screw
Red wire to brass screw
Nothing on silver screw for a moment. Test circuit and make sure light turns on-off.
If lights works, then good so far.

Now let look at silver screw. Neutral wire has to connect to silver screw.
In back of your electrical box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut.
These are neutral wires.
You must connect another short piece of insulated wire to these neutral wires and run that wire to silver screw.
The neutral wire will complete circuit to receptacle.
If you do not have neutral wire, then receptacle will not work in that box without additional wiring.

Hook up neutral wire to silver screw.
Now turn on power and click switch again.
If circuit breaker trips, then reverse your red and black wires.
Otherwise this should be correct wiring.

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Dec 25, 2010

SOURCE: I can't seem to get my T5225 combo outlet to work.

Electricians don't guess, they test.

Remove device.
Separate wires for testing.
Use ordinary 2-prong tester.
Tape wood sticks to tester leads to keep hands away from power.
Turn on power.

Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on Hot wire. This wire connects to dark-colored screw.
Hot is identified.
Now test Hot wire to each other wire in box, including white wires in back of box (exclude bare ground wire)
Tester will light up on Neutral wire. Neutral wire connects to silver screw. This will complete circuit to receptacle part of device.

The last wire goes to Load (light). This wire connects to brass-colored screw, and will complete circuit to light..

You can also take advantage of fixya phone support.
Fixya expert will walk you through the steps shown above for a price.

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Mar 29, 2011

SOURCE: I replaced a three-way toggle

You installed a 4-way switch as evidenced by 2 dark screws and 2 brass screws.
3-way switch has 2 brass and 1 dark.
Ground wire is not required.

Ad

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Roland Cube 30 Bass Amp won't turn on?

1. Check the power cable and ensure it is securely connected to both the amp and the power outlet. 2. Check the fuse and replace it if needed. 3. Check the power switch and ensure it is in the correct position. 4. Check the battery (if applicable) and replace it if needed. 5. If the amp is still not turning on, contact Roland customer service for further assistance.
0helpful
1answer

Blowing breaker

In general house hold circuit breaker of the house is 15 Amps or 20 Amps.

Either you have defected (weak) circuit breaker and wiring or bad Microwave oven.

The 99.99 % house hold Microwave ovens pull less than 15 Amps. They may have internal ceramic 15A fuse or 15 Amp internal circuit breaker.

To isolate your problem:

1. Plug your Microwave oven to different areas (different electrical circuit) if the different circuit breaker still trips... your Microwave oven has a short - Most of them has a small ceramic fuse 15 amps fuse.-also check some inter lock switches at door .

2. If the Microwave oven works Ok then you may have:

2a. You may overload the existing electrical circuit, try to unplug some other appliances

2b. You may have bad electrical outlet receptacle (Replace it with the same type , - may need helps from licensed electrician)

2c. Weak or defect house hold circuit breaker. (Replace it with the same type , brand - may need helps from licensed electrician)


1helpful
1answer

Installing arc fault interrupter with ground fault

Question is vague. Arc fault and ground fault are slightly different.

Are you installing arc fault breaker?
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#arc-fault
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

Code says Maximum 12 boxes per circuit breaker.

Arc fault breaker and GFCI outlet in bathroom?
>>> do not connect this way.
Do not install 2 fault protections on same circuit.
Install the arc fault circuit breaker, and then remove bathroom GFCI, and replace with ordinary outlet, or switch-outlet.

How many outlets can be connected to a bathroom GFCI?
It depends on total boxes on circuit.
Count the boxes. Max 12 boxes per circuit breaker.

How many amps can be connected to 15 amp device?
15 x 80% = 12 amps
Electricians use 80% rule to calculate safe maximum
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

Add a comment

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

0helpful
1answer

Wall light switch timer inline with Extension cord GE 15313

Black to black (hot), Green to green (ground) and the only one left is of course white to blue. The (neutral) white wire can be many different flavors (blue, red, orange, brown, etc.).

If the outlet your plugging into (or controlled by the service panel breaker) is 15 Amps use a minimum of 14 gage wire (or 12 gage is even better), if its a 20 Amp outlet use 12 gage wires (or 10 gage). Don't use a 16 or 18 gage wire because it may get hot and start a fire because its undersize for the Amps.
0helpful
1answer

My batthroom has 2 doors,where there is a light switch on both sides that opens the light. its a 3 way switch that can open and close on any side. is it possible to add a outlet (socket) on one side, from...

Light fixtures usually use 15 amps and outlets usually use 20 amps. The wire rating is also different. A bathroom outlet should be seperate from the light circuit especially when it should be a Ground Fault Circuit Interupter (GFCI) near a water source. Of course you can use a 15 amp, non GFCI with the light circuit, just make sure you connect to the supply line and not one of the load lines. Also make sure it is far from any water.
Sep 16, 2011 • Home
1helpful
1answer

What model Leviton GFCL should I use? My wire is a 600 volt 12/2 with ground. Said wire feeds other GFCL outlets.

Any off-the-shelf GFCI sold today with work on 12-2 wire:
By code, 12-2 wire should be connected to 20 amp circuit breaker, but typically most switches and outlets wired to that circuit are rated 15 amp. Amp rating is printed on electrical devices.
Leviton 15 amp 7599-W:
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-7599-W-Receptacle-Feed-Through-SmartlockPro/dp/B000VYO9MU/ref=pd_cp_hi_3
Leviton 20 amp 7899-W
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-7899-W-SmartlockPro-Indicator-Wallplate/dp/B000N663PM/ref=pd_cp_hi_0
Wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html
1helpful
1answer

I want to install two GFCI receptacles in an outside box. One is the Cooper with the on/off switch and the other a Eagle GFCI (no on/off) can/should this be done? and if so, how? We have wired it several...

Question is a bit unclear and wires are not known.
Are both GFCI devices inside same box?
Not necessary to install 2 GFCI devices inside same box since second outlet/switch can be protected using one GFCI.

1) Typical GFCI outlet device has 4 terminal screws (plus green ground screw for bare copper ground wire)
2) Two of the screws are labeled LINE. These screws are where the black Hot wire and white Neutral wire are connected. Black goes to brass screw and white to silver screw. And now the device has power to outlets, and both outlet are GFCI protected.
3) Two of the screws are labeled LOAD. These screws are where you attach additional outlets/switches that you want protected by GFCI. All outlets connected to LOAD screws would be GFCI protected. So attach black and white wires and run them to an ordinary outlet/switch and it will be GFCI protected. The key is to connect wires to the LOAD screws.
4) If you are using the outlet/switch combo GFCI device, then the same wiring shown above applies. The difference is the wires sticking out of back of device are for the switch. For example if switch controls a light, the wires going to the light connect to the two wires on back of device.
3helpful
2answers

I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee and the heater vents dont work.I have tried to find a picture of the fuse panel i can read but i cant..When you swith it to vents it only comes out of the defrost.Where can i...

Hope this helps:
Cavity/Fuse Diagram (1996 Grand Cherokee, passenger side kick plate to find, Owner's Manual pgs 205-206): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

Row 1: 1-6 (left to right) Row 2: 7-12 Row 3: 13-18 Row 4: 19-22
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Fuse Panel (Passenger Side kick panel) Reply

CAVITY FUSE DESCRIPTION 1 -10 amp (RED) Radio 2 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Cigarette Lighter 3 -10 amp (RED) Rear Washer Switch, Body Controller 4 -10 amp (RED) Airbag 5 -10 amp (RED) Lamp Out Module, Overdrive Switch, OBD II 6 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Vehicle Information Center/Graphic Display Module Park & Side Lamps, Overhead Console Lighted Visor, Automatic Dimming Mirror 7 -20 amp (Yellow) Body Amp, Cluster, Body Controller 8 -20 amp (Yellow) Rear Wiper Motor, Flipper Glass Solenoid, Cargo Lamp, Trailer Tow 9 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Brake Switch 10- 10 amp (RED) Rear Window Defroster 11 -10 amp (RED) ABS Module 12 -10 amp (RED) Heater-Ventilation-A/C Control & Recirculation Motor 13 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Hazard Switch, Turn Signal Switch 14 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Spare 15 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Spare 16 -10 amp (RED) Right & Left Courtesy Lamp, Glove Box Lamp, Halo Lamp Cargo Lamp, Underhood Lamp, Dome/Read Lamp Right & Left Visor, Automatic Dimming Mirror 17 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Radio Illumination, Tail Lamp, Graphic Display Module, Park & Side Lamps, Headlamp Switch, Body Controller 18 -20 amp (Yellow) Spare 19 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Passing Light 20 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Radio, Heater-Ventilation-A/C, Vehicle Information Center 21 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Power Outlet 22 -10 amp (Blue) Airbag Module -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information Constant 12V+ Pink/Black Ignition Switch Harness Starter Yellow Ignition Switch Harness Ignition Dark Blue/Gray Ignition Switch Harness Ignition 2 Red/Black Ignition Switch Harness (for AC) Accessory Black/Orange Ignition Switch Harness Tach Gray/White Coil Brake Switch White/Tan Brake Switch Trunk Pin n/a Works with Dome Light Parking Lights Blue/Red (+) Left of Steering Column or Light Switch Head Lamp Tan/Black Light Switch Factory Disarm Purple/Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel Black Connector at ECM Door Trigger Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel see notes Door Lock 5/Wire in Driver's Inside Driver's Door Orange/Purple Lock Pink/Black Unlock Door Unlock and Passenger's Doors Inside Passenger's Door Black/White L Pink/Black Unlock Horn Wire Gray/Orange (-) Steering Column Windows Up LF=Light Blue, RF=Brown/White, LR=Blue/White, RR=Gray/Black Doors Windows Down LF=White, RF=Purple/White, LR=Red/Black, RR=Green/White
• Cruise Control Information • Stereo Information • View all Jeep Vehiclesairconman.jpg
22helpful
2answers

Lights & outlets in addition, how many on 20 amp breaker?

I would say something a little different than SmithBrother. You said you are putting on an addition and you asked how many outlets can you put on a 20 amp breaker. Because of the date on your comment, it is probably a little late to be replying but whaat the heck ... here goes.

I think there is a rule of thumb that you can put about 12 "holes" in a 15 or 20 amp circuit. A "hole" is a hole in the wall where a box would be put for a outlet or a light or a switch. I presume you know to use #12 wire on a 20 amp circuit and while you may use #14 on a 15 amp circuit, I prefer to shy away from #14 wire even though I MAY protect a given circuit with a 15 amp breaker. You can over protect but not under protect. 30 amp is #10 and so forth.

There are lots of other considerations ... too many to do justice in this short comment. However, I will hit a few hi lites. As SmithBrother says, a micro wave should have its own circuit as should a AC or a frig - I think that may go without sayng. I think you are speaking more general use. I believe the electric code says every wall must have a plug in it and you can go no more than 6 feet to get to a plug. So, if you have a 12 foot wall, one outlet in the middle will meet the requirement. There is nothting preventing you from puttine two outlets in that same wall. From my perspective, I want to have lots of outlets and I want them to be convenient for me to use. (There are more than 200 outlets in my home) Another thing, you cant put a outlete over a electric baseboard heater. You can put one at each end of such a heater but not where a lamp cord would lay in top of the hot heater surface.

Regarding the 12 hole rule ... if you have two switches that control the same light, you only count those two switches as one hole even though, obviously, there are two holes in the wall for the two switches. Count a second hole for the light. Conversely, if there is a light and a fan, you should count that one hole in the ceiling as two.
3helpful
1answer

I replaced a fuse but still have no power.

I QUESTION FIRST THE 30 AMP FUSE , FUSES SHOULD BE SIZED TO THE WIRE IN THE CIRCUIT AS FOLLOWS , # 12 -20 AMP FUSE , # 14 -15 AMP FUSE AND # 10 @ 30 AMP FUSE OUTLETS ARE USUALLY # 14 OR # 12 AND SHOULD BE FUSED ACCORDINGLY , ------ NOW TO GET TO THE ORIGINAL QUESTION AS TO THE PROBLEM , MOST POWER DUPLEX OUTLETS ( WHICH IS THE KIND WITH A PLACE TO PLUG 2 DEVICES HAVE WHAT IS REFERRED TO AS A BRIDGE BAR THIS IS ON THE SIDE OF THE OUTLET CONNECTS FROM THE TOP SCREW TERMINAL TO THE BOTTOM SCREW TERMINAL THIS IS ON THERE FOR THE SPLITTING OF A CIRCUIT SO SAY IN A LIVING ROOM YOU WISH TO SWITCH THE BOTTOM FOR A LAMP AND YOU WANT THE TOP TO STAY HOT ALWAYS TO ALLOW YOU TO PLUG IN SOMETHING THAT YOU WISH TO STAY HOT ALL OF THE TIME AND NOT BE SWITCHED , THIS IS ON THE SIDE OF THE OUTLET AND IF I WANT TO SPLIT I WOULD SIMPLY BREAK THIS INTO USING NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS ******-- PROBLEM THESE BARS ARE ONLY GOOD FOR 15 AMPS AND CAN BURN INTO UNDER THE LOAD YOU DESCRIBE REMOVE OUTLET AND HAVE A LOOK HERE FIRST IF THIS IS CASE REMOVE AND REPLACE ( BE SURE TO MAKE DIAGRAM OF WHICH WIRES CONNECT WHERE AND ALWAYS KILL POWER BEFORE WORKING ON ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS )
Not finding what you are looking for?

143 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Electrical Supplies Experts

Brad Brown

Level 3 Expert

19187 Answers

john h

Level 3 Expert

29494 Answers

ADMIN Andrew
ADMIN Andrew

Level 3 Expert

66963 Answers

Are you an Electrical Supply Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...