If both outlets of the duplex recept are hot all the time you need to break off the jumper tab on the hot side of the recept. This way the switched wire coming from the switch will control one of the recept. of the duplex recept and the other one will be hot at all times.
Http://waterheatertimer.org/Basic-house-wiring.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/How-to-find-ground-fault-in-household-electric-circuit.pdf
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html
15 amp shouldn't matter
Sounds like a loose neutral wire in one of the switch boxes
Gene
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7
SOURCE: New Single Feed switch/outlet not working
Hi there, first what is your porous for the device? Do you want the switch to feed the outlet or do you want the switch to be independent? (switch feed outlet)---- black feed to gold screw on switch. then from lower screw on same side to outlet (this should be black also)> remembering to tie neutrals with wire nut in rear with pig tale to switch. hope this helps.
SOURCE: I installed a new garbage disposal. The way I
It sounds like you put in ordinary wall switch.
You use the word 'pigtail' which implies electrical knowledge, so without a photo it's hard to tell where the switch is shorting the circuit.
You need a single-pole switch with 2 screws and a ground screw.
If you use a 3-way switch, your wires are connected to dark screw and one of the brass screw
You have 2 wires running between receptacle and disposal.
The wall switch interrupts one wire. Not both wires.
So one wire from receptacle runs continuously to disposal.
The other wire is cut and one end attaches to a switch screw, the other end of the cut wire attaches on the other switch screw.
The bare ground wire connects to green screw.
Preferably the Hot wire is cut.
SOURCE: Cooper Industries Cooper Wiring 274W Switch and
Switch-plug combo:
bare ground goes to green screw
dark screw goes to hot from breaker
silver screw to neutral
brass screw goes to load (light)
Add a comment any time
You are replacing single pole light switch?
Single pole switch has 3 wires: black and red and bare copper
New device has 4 different colored screws: green, dark, brass, silver
Bare copper goes to green screw.
Black wire goes to dark screw
Red wire to brass screw
Nothing on silver screw for a moment. Test circuit and make sure light turns on-off.
If lights works, then good so far.
Now let look at silver screw. Neutral wire has to connect to silver screw.
In back of your electrical box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut.
These are neutral wires.
You must connect another short piece of insulated wire to these neutral wires and run that wire to silver screw.
The neutral wire will complete circuit to receptacle.
If you do not have neutral wire, then receptacle will not work in that box without additional wiring.
Hook up neutral wire to silver screw.
Now turn on power and click switch again.
If circuit breaker trips, then reverse your red and black wires.
Otherwise this should be correct wiring.
SOURCE: I can't seem to get my T5225 combo outlet to work.
Electricians don't guess, they test.
Remove device.
Separate wires for testing.
Use ordinary 2-prong tester.
Tape wood sticks to tester leads to keep hands away from power.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on Hot wire. This wire connects to dark-colored screw.
Hot is identified.
Now test Hot wire to each other wire in box, including white wires in back of box (exclude bare ground wire)
Tester will light up on Neutral wire. Neutral wire connects to silver screw. This will complete circuit to receptacle part of device.
The last wire goes to Load (light). This wire connects to brass-colored screw, and will complete circuit to light..
You can also take advantage of fixya phone support.
Fixya expert will walk you through the steps shown above for a price.
SOURCE: I replaced a three-way toggle
You installed a 4-way switch as evidenced by 2 dark screws and 2 brass screws.
3-way switch has 2 brass and 1 dark.
Ground wire is not required.
Either you have defected (weak) circuit breaker and wiring or bad Microwave oven.
The 99.99 % house hold Microwave ovens pull less than 15 Amps. They may have internal ceramic 15A fuse or 15 Amp internal circuit breaker.
To isolate your problem:
1.
Plug your Microwave oven to different areas (different electrical circuit) if the different circuit breaker still trips... your Microwave oven has a short - Most of them has a small ceramic fuse 15 amps fuse.-also check some inter lock switches at door .
2.
If the Microwave oven works Ok then you may have:
2a. You may overload the existing electrical circuit, try to unplug some other appliances
2b. You may have bad electrical outlet receptacle (Replace it with the same type , - may need helps from licensed electrician)
2c. Weak or defect house hold circuit breaker. (Replace it with the same type , brand - may need helps from licensed electrician)
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