There are four pieces, silver and black, that are triangular and frame-like. They are supposed to fit their pegs into holes in the flat face panels of the descent stage of the lander, perhaps to represent links between the descent stage and the ascent stage. The holes are in, apparently, unique configurations, which the pegs do not seem to match, at least not in the edition I have. Help!
Factory defect ?
SOURCE: 2005 chevy impala ignition switch
Ignition and Start Switch Replacement
Removal Procedure 
Disconnect the battery ground cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect and Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
Remove the steering column filler panel. Refer to Steering Column Filler Replacement .
Remove the knee bolster bracket. Refer to Bracket Replacement - Knee Bolster .
Remove the instrument panel (I/P) cluster trim panel. Refer to Trim Plate Bezel Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Cluster .
Remove the ignition switch bolts.
Lower the ignition switch away from the instrument carrier.
Insert the key into the ignition lock cylinder. Turn the key to the ON/RUN position.
Depress the transaxle park/lock cable retainer to release. Pull to remove the park/lock cable from the ignition switch.
Important: The Passlock? electrical connector cannot be removed until the lock cylinder is removed.
Depress and hold the detent on the bottom of the ignition switch in order to release the ignition lock cylinder. Remove the ignition lock cylinder with the key. 
Disconnect the Passlock? electrical connector.
Disconnect the electrical connectors. 
Important: Ignition switch lock cylinder that won't rotate or is seized.
Perform the following procedure if the ignition switch lock cylinder is seized or won't rotate.
12.1. Protect the immediate work area with suitable material such as clean shop towels or a clean fender cover.
12.2. Locate the surface for the ignition switch lock cylinder release button (2) on the plastic ignition switch housing and center punch a location (1) on the "rib" approximately 3/8 inch reward (toward the key entry end) from the cylinder release button.
12.3. Carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing with a 1/8 inch drill bit.
12.4. Carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the ignition switch lock cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring using a 9/32 inch drill bit.
12.5. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small suitable tool.
12.6. Grasp the ignition switch lock cylinder and remove it from the switch housing.
12.7. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operation, and using compressed air blow out the ignition switch assembly.
12.8. Follow service manual procedures when cylinder cording is required. Refer to Key and Lock Cylinder Coding in General Information.
Installation Procedure
If the lock cylinder would not rotate or was seized, perform the following procedure:
1.1. Install the new ignition switch lock cylinder as required by rotating both the cylinder and the ignition switch to the ON position.
1.2. Push the ignition switch lock cylinder into the ignition switch housing until fully seated.
1.3. You may have to slightly depress the release button as the button passes by the 9/32-in hole previously drilled in the ignition switch housing. 
Connect the electrical connectors.
Connect the Passlock? electrical connector.
Connect the park/lock cable to the ignition switch
Turn the key to the ON/RUN position. Install the ignition lock cylinder into the ignition switch. If you turned the key slightly while removing the lock cylinder, you may have to align the white colored ignition switch rotor (1) with the lock cylinder (2). You can rotate the ignition switch rotor (1) with your finger.
Remove the key
Position the ignition switch to the instrument carrier.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install the ignition switch bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10 N?m (89 lb in).
Install the trim plate bezel to the I/P cluster. Refer to Trim Plate Bezel Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Cluster .
Install the knee bolster bracket. Refer to Bracket Replacement - Knee Bolster .
Install the steering column filler panel. Refer to Steering Column Filler Replacement .
Connect the battery ground cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect and Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
rate me fix ya cuz this is the fix 100%
SOURCE: driver side car seat side panel will not stay latched
you need new clips ,avable through subaru,i believe they are better than ones equipped originally
SOURCE: My weber carburator wont fit
Two possibilities: Either you have the wrong unit for your engine, or, you need to buy or make either an adapter plate, or drill and tap new stud holes to mount it (use gasket as a template and make sure the base seals properly with no passages overhanging the manifold mount surface....make sure no metal is allowed to enter the manifold while drilling...tape over it to seal it off)
SOURCE: need a diagram on how to reassemble a 1995 ford aspire distributor
I took a look at my 2 Spare distributors , looks looks like it goes in the Bottom left one ( flat part on top ) At 8 o'clock position
My advice would be to take it to a certified body shop, where they have the proper equipment to make the repair. This is not a DIY job unless you have your own shop.
Testimonial: "Do you have an idea of price. I want it to look nice"
76 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×