I have a spun rod bearing, and a crank replacement -- along with full set of bearings -- is going to have to happen. Unable to locate crank or bearings and possibly piston.
Talk to an engine rebuild shop near you. They should be able to save your crank if it's not broken, and get you a set of bearings and piston or anything else you need. They'll be in the Yellow pages.
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No the oil clearance is correct for BOTH bearings @ .022 -.046 mm to try to get a true clearance measurement use a micrometer and measure in 4 places 90 degrees part this will check for out of round journal and compare to a factory journal size. there may be a .001 thousand or .002 thousand undersize bearing insert that will bring oil clearance in to specs. but most connecting rods get black from a spun bearing and they need to stay round so a inside micrometer is used to check that 10 times out 10 the connecting rod is replaced.
You are up for an engine rebuild. Remove the engine and turn up side down in a stand. Remove the sump and find the failed bearing by taking off the big end caps. If you find a con rod damaged you will have to remove the head and that piston and replace the con rod. If it is a main bearing that has spun you should only have to replace the crank shaft and fit new bearing shells Either way you will need another crank shaft. Check the price of a low mileage engine from a wrecker as it will be quicker and possible cheaper in the long run
that would be your connecting rods or valves rattling if its your valves they just need more oil or adjusting and if its your connecting rods its a spun crank bearing and need for the crank to be replaced along with that one rod and all bearings in the lower part of your engine
A spun bearing on a connecting rod usualy requires turning the crank. You can sometime get away with filling off the worst part, and using emmery cloth on it, but you need to have a mirometer to check the crank shaft. The connecting rod could also be damaged. It takes a good eye and a good hand stone to remove any burrs. You can then clean up the old bearing and shim it to test the bearing surface with bluing. Sorry this is rather complex, it just takes a lot to keep an engine togeather as several thousand RPM. It will take a good machinist to verify the repairs.
InMrFixIt
The connecting rods are probably frozen to the crank from overheating or the bearings are frozen. Pull the oil pan off and inspect the connecting rod bearings for a blueish coloring which is a sign they overheated. If they are you'll need to replace them all and have the crank and connecting rods turned.
Being front wheel drive, you may be able to drop the oil pan and access the rod and bearing from under the car, keep it clean and use proper torque. If the bearing had spun you'll need to pull the mootr and have the crank turned other wise it may quickly spin again.
I hope this may have assisted you,
Tom
Uhh there are no rods in the head. That dealer has a loose rod in his head maybe. The crank, rods and pistons are all in the bottom end of the engine. What it likely is is either a broken piston skirt or a spun rod bearing. Spun crank bearings are rare and sound deep. A spun rod bearing can be fairly quiet on idle depending how bad it is worn out, but it will be really loud on acceleration. Piston slap from a broken skirt can be pretty loud too but it mostly sounds like diesel rattle only a bit less. Some have described it as a loud pinging sound like detonation. Drain the oil and check for metal debri. If you can tilt the vehicle a bit for the oil to drain more towards the drain hole that could help. Then look for metal pieces and judge their size. There should be NO glitter whatsoever in engine oil, or any kind of debri. Now a rear end or transmission is different. Those always have a little metalic sheen to them. Best of luck.
Your vehicle timing chain jumped a sprocket
spinning a bearing means that the bearing does not get enough oil between it and, it's rod; causing the "babbet" a soft slippery metal lining the bearing; to heat up and, weld it's self to the crankshaft or. piston rod
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