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GE HSSGFTA WW not defrosting, heating circuit OK thermistor 39Kohms
Tested heater circuit OK 26Ohms. However thermistor reads 39K ohms. is that OK? also curious about on-board diagnostics. Evidently on the GE HSS25GFTA WW has on board diagnostics accessed by freezer door temperature controls, however cannot find diagnostic procedure.
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You could have a bad control board. These are notorious for going bad. I had the same issue just the other day. I replaced the control board because the compressor wasn't coming on and the defrost thermistor was also bad causing no defrost. Remove the control board and see if there are any burned spots on the back of the board.
Sarct, the question is, was the freezer side ok, if it was, I would suspect the damper not opening. If the freezer side was warm too, then I would suspect the evaporator thermistor not sending the signal to the board to terminate the defrost. Have the tech first check the continuity at connector J3. He should have 400ohms at J3-1 to J3-2 and the same at J3-3 to j3-4. If he doesn't get those readings have him check at the damper motor itself. If he doesn't have it there, replace the damper motor. If the damper motor passes all the checks then it's on to the evaporator thermistor. Have him check the resistance. At 5 degrees it should ohm at approx 36K ohms. The evap thermostat is redundant to the defrost operation. It's there as a back up in the event the evap thermistor fails to terminate the defrost. It's normally closed and will open at 140 degrees.
your thermistors are way out of range even at that temperature you say,put each thermistor in a glass of ice water for 5 minutes,then remove the J1 connector from the main board and check with an ohm meter set on 20k ohm between the thermistors common terminal #5 and the other pin terminals all thermistors tested this way should be about 16k ohms when tested this way,if not replace them
Check the thermal fuse. The fuse can be tested reading impedance.You can replace the fuse straight away, or you can
first test it using a multimeter set on Ohms. If the multimeter reads
Ohms infinity when you touch the fuse contacts with the probes, then the
fuse is gone. A good fuse will read zero or low impedance.
If the fuse is OK, then you can have a defective
thermostat. In the same way you test
the thermostats, thermistors or cutoff located in the heating group,
near to fan and element. If they are OK, then they will be conductive at
room temperature and will read zero Ohms. If they are bad they read
open (infinity). You need to disconnect the part's contact to test
properly.
The rest depends if the dryer is electric or gas.
On electric dryers you test the heating element. The heating element is tested in the same way. Set
multimeter on impedance, disconnect element, and touch contacts with
multimeter probes. If it reads open, then element is gone. A good
element reading depends on the specific model. Most washer-dryers,
including Whirlpool and Maytag read between 10 and 20 Ohms.
With gas appliances you need to test the ignitor, then coils and then the flame sensor. The ignitor is the most common cause for the problem. Heating coils problems are also common. The flame sensor does not fail very often.
I am sure you can do this yourself, Jeff. The test procedure is as follows. Bypass the defrost thermostat (round thingy strapped to evaporater ) place the frig into defrost by manually turning the timer with a screwdriver clockwise untill you hear a loud click. You should be in defrost mode now. If the heater element comes on then you have a bad defrost thermostat. If they do not come on then the element is bad. You can check element for continuity with an ohm meter. The defrost timer rarely goes out but they occasionally do. Wait to see if the timer comes back out of defrost on its own. Takes about five to ten minutes .If it does not, then you can visually inspect timer. There is a sight window on the back of timer that should be spinning if motor is good. Hope this helps
Dave, you are throwing me a little here. By jumping line to defrost you should have 120 V. at the heater. J-11 to j-9. Are you measuring voltage? Lets ohm out the circuit. Unplug the refer and disconnect the blue connnector from the main board. Measure between the blue wire on the connector and the orange wire on J-7 pin 9. This is right to the right. You should have approx 22 ohms. If you don't have this the problem lies either in the heater, harness,or defrost T-stat. The Tstat sits on the evaporator, opens at 140 degtrees and closes at 110 degrees. So it should read closed. Let me know how you are doing, Catriver
caint do it you can read the defrost circuit easyier by going into the freezer and ohming out the heater, btw the stat that is on the evaperator coil will read contunity up to 145 f it is not a bi-metal it is a over temp sensor
if you have a defrost issue check the heater of ok then go to the sensor also located on the evap coil
if it reads contunity then mother board located on the back of the ref
savey73,
I think I know what is wrong. First the defrost thermostat you are talking about I believe is the round metal type with possibly a pink and an orange wire coming out of it. That is not the defrost thermostat as most people know it. That is a defrost overheat termination thermostat that opens only over 140 degrees F, that is why your old good one and your new good one show closed at room temp. If you read on the outside of the metal cover you will find it has a L140 indicating the limit of 140 deg.
Now to what should be causing your problem. You should find on the evaporator coil at the top left side of the evaporator coil a part that has 2 white wires going into what looks like about a 1" long X 1/4" round plastic thing. That little white plastic thing is a THERMISTOR. If it is bad your defrost will not work. Sounds like that is the only thing you have not replaced. There is no polarization of the wires That should FixYa supertechks
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