Rank: Guru
Rating: 87%, 155 votes
Hello,
Most of strands becoming disconnected or frayed inside of insulation. It would allow voltage to be read at the connector, but when the motor is hooked up and is pulling amperage, it was too much for the strands that were still in tact to handle causing the motor to not work.
The wiring for the evap fan could be defective.
Ok, you have a solid state timer obviously built into the control board. This only way I know to test the system, is to open the back panel of the
freezer and use hot water of a hair dryer to remove any built up frost on coil. Be very careful not to get in a hurry because the
refrigeration coil is made of a thin aluminum tubing and can be punctured so easily. Take it from me, you don't want to do that. After the coil is clear then inspect the
heating element for burnt spots. If you don't see any then button the system up and let it cool down. The system should last about two weeks before it gets plugged again. If it does then its pretty sure that the control board is not initiating the defrost cycle correctly and will need to be replaced. If you have an ohm meter and you want to be double sure about the heating element being good, remove one lead from the element and put your meter leads on the element terminals and see if you have any continuity through the element. I hope this will help you resolve your problem.
else I would kindly recommend you to contact the local technician
