Question about Heating & Cooling
Posted by Anonymous on
Clean indoor filter , and coils in unit (you must remove from window and remove top from unit to expose coil, After cleaning coils prop up unit so it slopes to rear and spray back and forth at bottom of front coil until drain is clear . Never turn unit upside down , and do not get water inside of fan motor . Also clean evaporator blower wheel . With unit clean and drained out place in direct sunlight for at least 2 hours to completely dry before replacing top and reinstalling in window , or just drain out , reinstall and leave unit unplugged for at least 24 hours to dry before testing . If unit is clean and still icing , check to see if thermostat works (place object in front of unit to direct cold air from top of unit onto thermostat temperature sensor and compressor should cycle off, if not replace thermostat . If unit still ices you will need a pro to repair sealed system of unit or simply buy a new one .
Posted on Oct 05, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Air conditioners rely on a difference in pressure between the "high side" and "low side" in order to perform. Of course, a/c's are designed to work in the heat. Having a cooler outdoor temp of 70 degrees probably is not sufficient to maintain adequate head pressure and will result in reduced cooling capacity. Also, since it was 68 in the morning in the room, it is possible that the indoor coil began to freeze up. Basically, you have a cold coil that you keep warm by moving air over it. If the air doesn't have enough specific heat (what your thermometer measures) it can allow the coil to get colder than 32 degrees and the condensate from all of your humidity will begin to freeze on the coil. My recommendation would be to check the a/c on a day that is 80+ degrees. If you have an avarage indoor temp of 70 degrees you should be able to look for the air coming out to be approximately 20-25 degrees colder than the air being sucked in.
Posted on Jun 12, 2008
Some units have a dehumidify setting to overcome this as they go through a defrost. You can either manually defrost running on heating for a few minutes, or have it defrost when it goes out on fault as happened.
Posted on Jun 20, 2009
Wash out outside coil from time to time.This is the most over looked part of window units. Take care not to spray water directly into fan motor. If not real humid in house check temp coming out of ac inside and make sure filter and coil are clean. run on high speed and the air should have good force. 20 to 30 degree temp drop of room temp should be about right. Much depend on outside temp and humidity and indoor humidity plus insulation factor of area. How many people are in the area and if you keep unit on day and night .
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
Ours was worse than yours. It was not frozen up, but it did need freon. The tech told us that the compressor coil (the unit in the attic) was leaking freon and that the unit would have to be replaced within a year, but adding freon dropped the temperature inside from the mid-80s to the mid-70s (on 100 degree days). It might go lower, but we don't set the thermostats below 76. We paid $80 for the service call plus another $197 for 3 lbs of freon (for our 4-ton unit). Total cost: $274. The quote to replace the system with a new 14 SEER unit is $7,000 -- but this will get us through the summer. Oh, be sure to replace your filters monthly and keep your condensor fins clean. Spray them down with a hose (even while the unit is running), make sure there are no leaves or other trash blocking them, and make sure you have 2 feet of clearance around the condensor. Putting plants or other objects right up against it will impede its operation. Good luck!
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
if it is set to 76 degrees and its 78 in the house its working fine it is suppose to shut off once it reaches 76 but sometimes there is a 1 or 2 degree differential built ini would keep you filter clean and as long as it blows out cold air i wouldnt be to concerned most airconditioners need yearly cleanings though
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
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