How do i wire this combo switch correctly. four wires in junction box

Firstly (1) will be Black=hot, White=neutral and Copper=Ground. Don't work on these wires with them live.
All copper wires will be connected together and if possible, the metal box earth lug.
You will need a SPST or SPDT switch (image of SPDT switch is shown below) to mount in your junction box. If your switch has a ground lug, you need to also connect the copper wire there.
(1) Black will connect to Switch Common, (3) Black and (4) Black. Note: all can connect to the Switch Common connection as the switch will generally allow 3 wires to be connected per terminal; one push terminal and two screw pressed terminals.
(1) White will be connected to (2) White, (3) White and (4) White. For this connection, you can use a twist cap of the correct size to parallel these neutral wires.
(2) Black will connect to other free connection on the switch. There may be two free connections, so the one you use will basically determine which direction the switch will be on/off.
Once connected and checked, you can power up. If correctly wired, you should now have switched power to (2) and continuous power to (3) and (4).
I hope this helps with your inquiry.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#add
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/ss-2a-junction-box-500.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Inside-Main-Breaker-Box-12.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-timers.html

Usually there is not a red wire in 120V circuit unless it's for 3-way, or for fan-light combo, or the circuit is 240V with 2 hot wires

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

11-1-12
Thanks for link to manual.
Solution might take more response for full clarity, and you seem a good electrician.
I have numbered two questions that may be unimportant.
Add a comment, response after 5 pm CST

Here is illustration showing Black Hot and White Neutral in attic junction box, as you described. With black-red-blue wires connected as shown in Broan manual. And each device connected to White neutral wire in junction box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Triple-fan-light-night-light.jpg

You have access to attic, and can drop another cable down wall into switch box. This will give necessary total 4 wires between switch and Broan
http://waterheatertimer.org/OWB1.html

Key start point: Junction box in attic has the Black Hot wire and White neutral coming from circuit breaker box.
This cable powers the junction box.

There are 3 cables in junction box, each cable with black and white.
Cable from breaker box with Hot and Neutral. Cable going to light switch.
Another cable jumps power to next box in the circuit, and will be reconnected when finished, black-to-black white-to-white

Old light switch in wall was single pole.
1) How many cables are inside switch box? Just one cable from attic with black and white wire?
2) 3-way switch is the wrong switch, unless you mean 3-pole triple switch with 3 screw terminals on one side of device?

Here is another link that shows wiring choices if you decide to use 3 separate switches (or timers or occupancy sensor to turn on night light) instead of triple switch: Install triple box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#4-f

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

One single cable runs from the circuit breaker to a junction box in that area of the house.
The cable has a black Hot wire, white Neutral wire, and bare ground wire.
Once the cable arrives at junction box, it can split up 2 or 3 directions.
Each successive box receives a cable that feeds back to the first junction box.

Chances are the junction box is on the ceiling. And it will be the ceiling box that is closest to main breaker box.
Junction box can also be a switch box. In that case it will be switch box closest to main box.

Find the junction box, as point of organization.
Open junction box and separate all black and white wires.
Turn power on and see if breaker sets.
That will tell you if problem is between main box and junction box.

Junction box wires are separated.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Turn power ON and test each wire in junction box to bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on Hot wire.
Test Hot to each other wire in box, except bare ground, and tester lights up on Neutral
This identifies the cable that comes from breaker box.

Now, reconnect cable from breaker box to one of the other sets of black and white wires located in junction box.
Check if breaker resets.
If breaker resets, see what circuits are working, and you can eliminate them as suspect.

Remember each successive box in a circuit has 1 cable that connects back to main breaker box
Going 1 box at a time, and disconnecting black and white wires, will eventually lead to the suspect.

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If I understand correctly you are replacing ordinary switch with switch-plug-GFCI device.
And one cable enters the box, and the cable has 1 black and 1 white and 1 ground wire.

To correctly wire combo GFCI device, you need a Neutral wire.
If your switch box has 1 cable, then it does not have a Neutral.
The neutral is required for GFCI operation, and also to power new outlet.

To test for Neutral wire:
Separate wires for testing.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot line wire from breaker box.
Hot is identified.
Test Hot wire to all other wires inside box, except bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire.

> If switch box does not have Neutral, then device cannot be wired correctly.
> If you do have a Neutral, then open following link for correct wiring of device:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t8269774-okay_same_problem_cooper

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You purchased a GFCI outlet.
You posted under GFCI combo switch and receptacle.
If you have different device, then add a comment.

On back of device are markings that show Line and Load.
These markings are associated with screws on device.
Black Hot wire connects to Brass-colored Line screw.
White Neutral wire connects to silver screw located opposite Line screw.
If you don't know which wires are Hot and Neutral, the testing steps are shown at bottom.

Your other two wires evidently go to a light, fan, or motor that is operated by the switch.
This is where the two wires that stick out of GFCI device are used.
Your Black Load wire connects to one wire, and your White Load wire connects to other wire.

Finally there are 2 screws left on GFCI device.
These screws are used if the Hot and Neutral wires go forward to another switch or receptacle box. This would require another Black and White wire in the box, and all devices from the GFCI forward would be protected by the GFCI.
As you know, the way electric circuits work is a Black Hot and White Neutral leave the circuit breaker box and travel to a junction box. From the junction box, the Black Hot and White Neutral travel to the next box, and then the next box, and so on until the last box is reached. Each box contains a switch or plug or combo device or a light fixture. In your case, the Black Hot and White Neutral may not send power forward to another box, and may just be a switch box that has a single wire to the light fixture, and that is the end of the circuit.

How to test for Hot and Neutral wires:
Separate your 4 insulated wires.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on Hot wire.
Now Hot is Identified.
Test Hot wire to each other wire in box, except bare ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire.

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Do they not work from and switch? First, check fuse 5 (30a) which is hot at all times. Then, make sure the drivers door lock has voltage to the black.white wire, if not there is a bad connection between the fuse and black/white wire (the same wire feeds switches on both sides, so find the junction and check from there back to the fuse box). Then check to make sure the other four wires register ground. If the black wires do not, run a new ground to those two wires. If the pink/lt grn-pink/yellow switches do not replace the switch. If you find voltage and ground to the other four wires move to the passenger door switch. both pink/black and pink/orange wires should register ground, and the blk/wht should register voltage. Hold the swirch in one position, one of the ground wires should now register voltage. When the switch is pressed the opposite direction, the voltage should reverse. If you register ground on both sides and voltage but it fails when pressing the switch, replace the switch. If it tests ok, the pink/black=pink/orange wires that feed the locks are losing connection between the locks and switch. You then have to move to the lock closest to you and see which wire does not register. The wires from the passenger switch yo the wire that feeds the locks or the junction where the two meet are bad.

My extreme apologizes yacunix, as I just received notification!

I do realize the gravity of your problem due to,

A) Your indication of shutting all power off to your residential structure

B) The grave safety factors that are involved, and it is my contention that you should be led step, by step, with safety guidelines being implemented during the entire course of the procedures involved.

All safety issues Need to be addressed, Before starting the procedures, and During the procedures.

In my possible defense, and this website's defense, I would wish you to know why my response is so late.

I didn't provide a Solution. I provided information in a Clarification. This was implemented, because I hadn't provided any sort of solution to your problem, just possible information to tools you may want to consider, and a way to start diagnosing your problem.

I was alerted that you had posted again, and had my user name in the heading, by a fellow expert, jyackle5.

More information was needed before proceeding further.

I needed to know if your residential structure was of the vintage that used the old knob, and tube wiring system.

With this older type of system, the Neutral, or Common wire, is led all throughout the residence on a single strand of wire.

There are individual Hot wires for each room, or a series of receptacles.

Now that I see we are dealing with a Service Panel, that has circuit breakers. Hopefully all the wiring is NM.
(Non Metallic insulation. A moniker frequently used is 'Romex'. Romex is/was a manufacturer of NM wiring, and the name stuck.
Just like when an open end adjustable wrench, is referred to as a 'Crescent Wrench')

[ I know it's a pain accessing the attic, and going back to those proposed power source wires. All I can state, is welcome to the world of an electrician.

Are the two energized wires, and the two non-energized wires in a junction box?
The junction box will be made of metal, or plastic. (Metal preferred)

If they are not, they need to be put into one. Anytime you have a connection you have a possible source for resistance, and also the connection coming loose.

Resistance causes heat. Heat can cause Fire.

Connections are put inside a junction box to keep them contained in a safe manner, and for physical requirements.
I use a metal style of junction box. I use 'Romex' wire connectors attached to the junction box, and clamped down on the wires.
I also use the metal cover.

This is a safety requirement set out by the NEC a long time ago. (US)
If a fire breaks out do to a loose connection, it is contained inside that junction box.
If a connection becomes so loose that the hot wire touches the junction box, the circuit breaker for that circuit, trips.

(ALL junction boxes, must be connected to the bare copper wire. Earth ground)

Stated this information in case you have a situation where NM wires are sticking up in that attic access hole, with wire nuts for the connection, and are NOT in a junction box.

It would behoove you to put them in a junction box, believe me.

A metal junction box used for this purpose is octagonal shaped.
There are four knockout holes, on the outside edge of the junction box. There is a metal cover that screws down on top of the junction box

An instrument such as a metal flat tip screwdriver, is used to partially tap the knockout to the outside of the junction box, then a pair of electrician's pliers are used to twist the knockout back, and forth, then remove it.

There are two different styles of these metal octagonal junction boxes, and two different sizes that I use.
(IF space permits, you can also use a square metal junction box)

One style has Two - 3/4 inch knockout holes, and Two - 1 inch knockout holes. Small and large in size.

The other style has Four - 3/4 inch knockout holes. Small and large in size.

Since you are only dealing with 4 wires, I would suggest the style that has Four - 3/4 inch knockout holes, and is 4 inches in diameter, plus 1-1/2 inches deep.

Buy Four Romex wire connectors.

( Illustration of what a Romex connector looks like,

http://www.gordonelectricsupply.com/index~ID~,Conduit...Fittings,NM.Romex.Connectors~path~product~part~35870~ds~dept~process~search

Note the two screws, and the bar clamp, in the front of this Romex connector's view shown.
The NM wire goes under the clamp, and the two screws tighten the clamp to the INSULATION of the NM wire.

The screws are tightened down evenly, keeping the clamp flat on the wire's insulation.
The clamp is only tightened down tight enough to keep the NM wire from pulling out, Not so tight that it squishes the insulation too far.

NO more than 1 inch of the OUTER insulation sheath, of the NM wire, can be protruding inside the junction box.
Make SURE you have enough NM wire's outer insulation stripped back, when installing the NM wire into the junction box.
TIP: Strip back 3 inches of the outer insulation sheath, of the NM wire.

The locking ring nut comes off, and the Romex wire connector's threaded part is inserted through the knockout hole, from the outside of the junction box.

Then the nut is installed on the threads, from the inside of the junction box.
Use a flat tip screwdriver to tighten the locking ring nut, by putting the flat tip against the 'Teeth' of the locking ring, and tapping the handle of the screwdriver.

You want the clamp to be parallel to the cover, for easy access to the screw heads.
I turn the Romex wire connector to about a 45 degree angle, tighten the locking ring just so tight, then use my electricians pliers to turn the Romex connector, until the clamp is parallel to the junction box cover, and the locking ring tightens up all the way.

NO more than 3 conductor wires can be installed in a single octagonal junction box. The Hot wires, (Black), are the conductor wires.
(That means there will be 3 Black wires, 3 White {Neutral or Common} wires, and 3 bare copper wires. {Ground)

Apologizes for that, but IF those four wires are NOT in a junction box, I don't want you to fix the source of your problem, and leave these wires not in a junction box.

Not in a junction box is an excellent source for a possible fire hazard. ALL connections should be in a junction box in some form, or another. Even behind a light fixture. ('Pancake' box)

NOW,

You have identified the two source hot wires, (Or it is thought so at this point)

Did you physically check the wire nuts to see if they were loose?
Did you do this with the POWER being ON?

THIS = NO!

POWER OFF, and I mean the entire residence, if you are not 100% positive what circuit breaker/s provide power, to those two hot leads!

Even IF you are sure the power is off, use the non-contact voltage detector for those wires, and BE SURE!

I hope you take no offense, to my being overbearing about your safety. I am not trying to insult your intelligence at any time.
I am just VERY Concerned for your safety.

AC electricity used in your residence is Alternating Current.
The electricity actually alternates back, and forth.
As it does it Vibrates the wire.

This vibration can loosen connections such as a wire nut. Upon a casual glance, the wire nut may indeed look to be tight.
Upon closer inspection by trying to twist the wire nut on tighter, it may be found that the wire nut is loose.

The wire nut MUST be on tight!!
No ANDS, IF's, or BUTS about it!

I have come through MANY a residence, where the wire nuts worked loose.
I have been through a few, where the two wires were not properly twisted together, before the wire nut was twisted on.

Tip of one wire was barely caught by the threads of the wire nut, and eventually came loose out of the wire nut.
(Yes, it makes it so much FUN {?} to track these down!)

Another thing. I tape the wire nuts to the wires, with Black electrical tape. Prevents those babies from ever coming loose. The last wind of the tape is wrapped around the wires, then tied into a square knot.

(Yes, another electrician would hate to follow my work, and have to take that electrical tape off, before being able to remove the wire nut. Thing is, unless they are using this connection for another wire lead to something else, they don't have to touch my connections. My connections stay secure. I have residences from 12 years ago, or more, to prove this)

More in additional comments, leading more directly to your problem, with your recent information posted.

If in any doubt, get an electrician or heating engineer to connect it as there is full mains voltage on these connections.
The thermostat will have 3 possible connections. You need the NO and COMM. Ignore the NC.
If the 10 way junction box has four connections, these will be NO, NC, COMM and Earth.
You need to identify the NO and COMM in the junction box and connect them to the corresponding NO and COMM on the thermostat. The DR1 is double insulated so doesnt need to be earthed.
Please make sure youre absolutely certain that you have identified the correct terminals in the junction box - whilst electrically performing the same function, there are many ways to wire up the junction box.
Again, if in any doubt call in an electrician or heating engineer.