WHAT PUMP RUNS FINE FOR A WHILE THEN IT WILL TRIP THE GFI...

replace gfci

Something in the electrical system supplied by the GFI breaker has a ground fault. The current to ground required to trip a GFI is very little such that dampness on any electrical connection can trip it. This is especially true with motors that have a lot of fine wires in the windings and are open to allow cooling.
Hard water and pool chemicals all are worse than condensation from the air because of their ionic nature.
If the same GFI powers the pump it is what I would suspect first. Your question got cut off before the result of the fan disconnect which if disconnected didn't trip the GFI, is probably the problem. But you should open whatever you can access containing electrical components and make sure everything is dry

#1. DO NOT GET INTO TUB FULL OF WATER WITH A GROUND FAULT.
2. There is a short. You need to get multimeter and start checking each part for current running to ground wire.
3) Power is ON. Connect power without GFCI.
4) Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
5) Do not touch anything directly or you will become the ground rod.
6) Ground wire must be present, and bonded back to main panel box.
7) Do not sit or touch directly on cement or bare ground. Do not touch or lean into anything made of metal.
8) Body and parts must be on sheet of plywood, or similar non-conductive dry surface.
9) Test each part with spa, but also test electric line coming from main box.
10) GFCI will also trip with any fault detected on line. So the wire coming to spa may have the fault.
11) Add a new dedicated line from main box to spa.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

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Sounds like the water seal has failed and the pump motor got wet and arced it out. As this is a sealed unit best bet is buy a new one.

This is a problem with the pressure chamber, it might be cracked or broken and if it senses water then it will trip the GFI. The pressure chamber is where all the electrical components are. You may have to replace the pressure chamber complete.

Setting the pump for 115V wont by itself cause the trip. There is either a ground in the circuit or the GFI is bad. You may want an electrician to test any further than this.

If the seals are damaged, water will leak into motor section and cause GFI to trip and yet the pump will seem that it is running fine if plugged into a non-GFI receptacle

This should be a 220 volt appliance so I'm trying to figure how this was connected to a GFI. Does it have a second connection to power the controls?

Most GFI uints I have seen are not rated for large amounts of power consumption. I used to throw the one in my bathroom if I was running the electric heater and the wife fired up the hair dryer.

I'm wondering if this indeed does require the additional 110 connection then it sould be pulling heavy current from it to aid in the cleaning process. I've never seen a stove that needed the extra. My old electric range had only the 220 as well as my elders.

So if that is the case then you should not be running that through the GFI outlet because of the heavy drain will heat the breaker in the GFI and cause it to trip. Breakers actually work very similar to how the old fuses work. Heat causes the switch to throw. GFI units have a lower tolerance (designed to detect shorts quicker to save your life) and trip quicker than breakers do.

most require a seperate circuit for the heater. depending on HP on the circulation pump and wattage on heater.

check your pump ,,, sounds like you gotten something in it putting a strain on the motor to overload your breaker