I can't get inside this thing to work on it! Is it welded together? Needs either new ignitor switches or module or ignitors, but I can't even get it apart to troubleshoot it. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, do most of my own work, but this is throwing me. Did I miss something easy?
Well, it happened again. I'd replaced the spark module last time around, due to spillage getting into/onto that control unit. This time around, I had one burner that just kept sparking after it was lit. Cleaning the sparking post (emitter) didn't solve the problem, but I realized that there might be contamination elsewhere in the connect. I pulled the brass rings (nuts, really) and was able to lift the the top off. I carefully removed the individual sparking wires from each burner, and examined each assembly. After cleaning some debris off the male connector for that bad burner's spark assy, and reassembling the cooktop, it worked!
Things learned: The top can lift off without having to worry about dropping the entire unit. (This probably varies by model). The emitters _and_their_connectors_ are sensitive to contaminants. This was an EASY fix! Thanks for the helpful instructions everyone!
Here's the deal. Your spark module has gone out, for whatever reason. Gateway appliance has a great parts division, call them at 253-872-7838 and ask for parts. Order the spark module at least (about $45). If your's is like mine was, under the burner bases are orange o-rings. Mine were baked hard. Order all four new o-rings too. When it gets in, follow the above instructions for dissasembly. Inside, under a metal shield, covered by some insulation, is the spark module. The new module is slightly different, but has all the same connections. Go slow, and pay attention, but no big deal. Oh, BTW, you can pull the top without completely dismounting the cooktop from the counter top.
Had the same problem some time back - turns out it was from accumulated food debris/buildup in and around the piezoelectric starters resulting in a change in resistance - which signaled the igniter to fire continuously. Try cleaning thoroughly top and bottom and make sure they are dry (I used oven cleaner, let it sit then cleaned w/toothbrush and toothpick.)
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There are a few things to check for: First make sure
the electrode (the small metal piece that the spark comes...or The water that you spilled onto the cooktop has shorted out the ignition switch in the gas control knob. Don't worry.
First of all, the model number is under the cooktop bottom, and secondly, this can happen due to the burner switches got wet somehow. Best thing to do is to unplug unit for 6-12 hours, allow to dry, then re-plug unit back in, this should be enough time to dry out the burner switches.
Sounds like someone washed down theb cooktop. If the moisture traveled throughout the contacts, the clicking sound will continue while off, until things dry out. Unplug cord from wall, give it some hours, maybe even a day or so, for moisture to evaporate. This worked for me in past. Give it a try. Good luck
Just solved this on the Kenmore model 911.33389 (same unit). Ignitors started with no one touching the cooktop. It has had a history of doing this and, this time, sparks were visible under the knob. Disassembled cooktop (don't forget to unplug and shut off the gas!). Performed "smell test" for burned electronics. Found smell in #3 ignitor switch. Disassembled and found worn, burned, and fried. Parts list was inside unit but had a typo for the "ignitor switch". Showed WB18T10240. Ordered that only to discover it was the transformer to ignitor wire harness set (no photo on website!). Wrong part... ugh! Dug deeper for the correct part #. It was WB18T10239 but it has been replaced with WB18T10344. Noted on some website that someone installed one and then the ignitor was NOT synchronized. Turns out, you can install WB18T10344 about three different ways. Mine was 22 degrees off vertical (different than original) and now my unit works perfectly! Also, install the new switch harness (if that's what you do) starting from the left front valve then clockwise. The original unit installed from the right front valve, then clockwise. Hope this helps.
The causes to the clicking is that the ignitors could be wet, dirty (with grease caked on them or cleaning products or a bad spark module). The ignitors are the little white things on the side of each burner with a metal piece on top. If they are wet (let them dry out for 20 - 30 min on a high flame, if dirty sand the metal piece on top with sand paper or nail file. And if it is the spark module and u are technical, order one from the parts department for Viking. You will need ur model and serial # then find out if it is located under the burners or the rear of the range. There are several wires going to the spark module. Best way is to disconnect one by one and connecting it to the new box until all wires are switched from old to new module. Remember to unplug the unit before doing this because you may get shocked. Also if it is a sealed burner system that means that the burner bowls cannot be lifted from the range and water cannot seap under the burners then you could just change all 4 or six burner bases. Viking has adapted them throughout the many complaints and they are better now. Typical cost is: $350 - $400 if spark module is under burners, in rear = $500 - $600. Burner bases = 400 - 600 depending on number of burners and if it is with a venturi or screws. Good luck.
If you have replaced the spark module with the new, blue PA020041 Tytronics 0+4 spark module, the physical positions of the leads that go to the burner igniters are reversed compared to the positions on the old, white module. Make sure that the switch wire for the burner and the position of the spark wire both go to the same burner! The positions are marked on the white label with green lettering.
This is likely caused by either a dirty ignition electrode, a cracked ignition electrode, or a bad spark re-ignition module.
Clean and inspect the six electrodes for cracks, If that doesn't solve it order a new Ignition module from an internet appliance dealer that carries Viking parts like Appliance Zone.
If you replace the Ignition module yourself, make sure to turn off the circuit breaker to the range/cooktop before you work on it. Also, make a drawing of where the different color leads are plugged into the ignition module before you unplug the wires and plug them into the new re-ignitor. If the unit is under one year, this should be covered under the warranty. Viking had a recall a few years back on their ignitor modules.
I had the same issue and replaced the spark module myself, lots of wires and you have to make sure to label them before removal to be able to hook them back up correctly. To get to the module you need to unscrew all burners, no need to take the cover plate under the knobs. Burners remove by unscrewing center, brass nut. OEM spark module is VIKING RANGE #PA020021 U-67205-21. Go