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Anonymous Posted on Sep 30, 2014

How do I wire a Pass & Seymour legrand 885-TRNICC12 electric outlet

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Gene Haynes

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  • Pass & Seymour Master 5,391 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 02, 2014
Gene Haynes
Pass & Seymour Master
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Joined: May 07, 2012
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Hot wire to brass-colored screw
Neutral to silver colored screw
http://waterheatertimer.org/Basic-house-wiring.html#test

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 5 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 01, 2009

SOURCE: How do I install a Pass & Seymour Nightlight/

The wires that you taped up are most likely the wires that feed that outlet and the outlet that isn't working anymore in the bathroom. The proper way to fix your problem would be to do one of the following:
Turn off all electrical power to that circuit. If you are unsure, turn the whole panel off. The inconvenience of resetting your household clocks isn't worth your life.

1) If the screws on your new outlet have spaces for two wires, reattach the disconnected wires under the same screws as the ones feeding the new outlet.
2) Cut yourself a 8" piece of black, white and green or bare copper wire. Disconnect the wires feeding the new outlet. Twist all three wires together, color to color and twist a wirenut on each connection. You should have the three black wires twisted together, the white wires twisted together and the green or bare wires twisted together. Now take the 8" wires and reconnect them to the outlet. Black going to the bronze screw, white going to the silver screw, and green or bare going to the green screw.

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Anonymous

  • 56 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 30, 2010

SOURCE: Where can I purchase keys for Pass & Seymour

Grainger

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Oct 09, 2010

SOURCE: is there a receptacle/switch similar to the #

78d3313.jpg

http://www.instockelectrical.com/vgfs15-cooper-15-amp-gfciswitch-de1515.html

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-7299-NI-SmartLockPro-Combination-Receptacle/dp/B000T8GWUK

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Nov 04, 2010

SOURCE: I am using a Pass & Seymour illuminated three

I answer questions for free
I work with timers and electrical devices.

If I understand correctly you replaced a 3-way switch.
The new switch has 3 screws (plus green ground screw)
You put the Hot wire on the dark screw correctly.
You attached the two travelers to the brass-colored screws.
The two travelers are red and white.
You connected the ground wire to the green screw.
The ground wire is not supposed to be connected to with the white wire, and I doubt it is because that would trip the breaker.
The lights are working correctly.

If you followed the formula above to the letter, then the lighted switch should light up.
My best guess at this point is that the lighted switch is defective.
The Pass and Seymour webpage does not have manuals to look at like Leviton and Lutron products.
As a result I can't pour over a manual and put a magnifying glass on the wiring and wording to see if there is something we've missed.
But it's just not that complicated ... the light switch should light up.

At this point, I suggest you re-read the instructions (just in case?) and then swap the switch for another one ... or get different brand.

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Nov 09, 2010

SOURCE: How to install Pass & Seymour 5410CC10 sp2

The cord that runs to your light contains two wires.
The cord switch interrupts one wire.
The second wire runs uninterrupted between wall plug and light.

The photo below is not the same switch as yours, but it shows how one wire is interrupted and the other wire is uninterrupted.

geno_3245_26.jpg

Which wire do you want to interrupt?
Look at the wall plug.
Is the plug polarized, where one blade of the plug is wider?
If the plug is polarized, then one blade is wide and the other is narrower.
Each blade of the plug feeds one of the two wires going to lamp.
Locate the narrower blade, and the wire that comes from that side of plug.
The narrow-blade wire is the wire you want to interrupt when installing the cord switch.

If the plug is not polarized, then choose one wire.

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Hello anonymous,

I am concerned in so many ways... (USA NEC assumed):
FIRST concern:
(after the obvious BATHROOM/GFCI issue) is the
NATIONAL ELECTRIC CODE for wire/device capacity
INSIDE your existing ELECTRIC box...

The CODE requires wires to have space ... aside
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Then... of course... You have said nothing about the wire gauge/ampacity... (again assuming 14 Gauge/15 Amp)... you will have to calculate the fill for each wire and check the Cubic Inches Plus your device against the ELECTRICAL BOX rated capacity...

That is just the BASICs of SAFETY.


Looking for a diagram of your
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I have found what YOUR switch looks like...

From an old electrician's standpoint...
If you have EACH device wire separately thru
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There should be NO POWER to operate the FAN.

The FACT that there is ... Is highly PROBLEMATICE.

It would seem that a PREVIOUS ELECTRICIAN
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I Recommend KLIEN NCVT (non-contact volt tester)
Klein Tools NCVT 1 Non Contact Voltage Tester Electrical Tools Amazon com

A SWITCHED NEUTRAL
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(any water) location but is EASY to fix...

Rip it ALL apart and properly configure all the EXISTING WIRES...

Do it right... Be safe.

WHAT ARE TWO BLACK WIRES FOR COMING OUT OF PASS sEYMOUR 1595 SWT SWITCH FOR

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Would suggest you contact the Pass and Seymour Div. of Legrand (France) and ask for the pdf file with the instructions. Your unit has a wireless function and must be work properly.
Not finding what you are looking for?

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