Samsung HLP4663W 46 in. Rear Projection HDTV Television
Problem for Samsung HLP4663W 46 in. Rear Projection HDTV Television

I have fan#1 and Fan#2 message on screen.It won't




By Lovelectric on Jul 04, 2009

" "
I have fan#1 and Fan#2 message on screen.It won't allow me to get on to service mode.Both fans are working, replaced actuator board, nothing. I noticed power board is sending 205V DC, and actuator board CN103 and 104 receiving 155V DC. Set is turning on fine good picture and sound, after a period of time lamp turns off but sound keep working. Any help will be more than appreciated, thanks
Comments:

Jul 04, 2009

- Both fans stops after shutting off set( 1-2 min after off).I jumped temp sensor and screen still goes off but sound working.I connected video out to another set and gave image while in set screen off. Could it be the Color wheel, sinse I connected a VCR and image wasn't good lot of blue and image not digital.Actuator board is new, digital board working on circuit. Any help will be more than appreciated,Thanks.

Jul 04, 2009

- I forgot to tell the Lamp never shuts off it kept on all the time.

Jul 15, 2009

- Well, after replacing actuator board and both fans and color wheel, set is back to normal; but once I connected any AV in the lamp turns off without any front flashing lights.If theres no AV in the set operates normal. If someone can help will be more than appreciated, thanks

Aug 03, 2009

- After checking the power board I found out ballast output was sending 320V instead of average 380V. Now I bought a new power board and this new is sending 162V to ballast. Am I wrong or the right power output to ballast is not 380V DC? When I turn the set on works fine aand after a wile image's gone,the Lamp does not turn off the color wheel keep turning and sound on, but Image is gone. Any help will be more than appreciated

Sep 17, 2009

- After chaging the power supply and DMD board, the set was fixed, the power supply was not regulating and the flash and two capasitors in the DMD board werenot working. Thanks for all your help!

Best Solution

posted on Jul 04, 2009
Very Helpful)

Skyassoc

Rank: Guru  Televisions & Videos  Expert
Rating: 91%, 294 votes
Check to make sure that both fans stay turning.If one stops prematurely, replace the one that stops. If they do turn until shutdown then try jumping the Temperature Sensor on the Lamp Housing. If that stops it from shutting down, replace the Sensor. If not , there is a chance you have a Actuator Board or a Digital Board causing the problem.
Hope this helps,
Skyassoc
Comments:

Jul 05, 2009

- If the Actuator Driver Board has been replaced, it really seems to come down to either the Color Wheel Assy , the DMD Board, or Digital board. My gut hunch is the DMD Board. It Controls Lamp turn on, Powers the Color Wheel, Drives DMD Panel, Sensor Control, and Actuator Control. It could very well cause all the symptoms the set has. If the color Wheel is turning it is probably OK. What is the state of the LED's on the front of the set? When the unit shuts down one or more should be blinking.
Hope this helps,
Skyassoc

Jul 16, 2009

- When the Lamp goes out does the Color Wheel also stop and or does the rest of the set stay operating when the Lamp goes out?
The DMD board does control Lamp turn on and has other sensor control features. The real question is if the Digital board is giving the command to the DMD to turn the Lamp off. There is only a few reasons that the LEDs on the front of the unit are not blinking when the unit fails. It almost has to be one of the two causing the problem. But, go over very closely and look for any plug connectors or ribbon connectors that you might have over looked
connecting. In some respect you have too many odd things happening to be another Board failure.
Hope this helps,
Skyassoc

Aug 03, 2009

- After mulling this around for most of the day and going through the service manual, I also cannot get past the Power Supply being only around 162V to the Ballast. Either you got a bogus reading or the Power Supply you got is defective. The supply voltage should be approx 280V DC at CN1 on the Ballast Board according to the service manual. Try putting the old one back in and recheck the Voltage Reading at CN1. I still come back to the DMD Board being the problem. It has a part to play with all of the parts you have replaced both good and bad. It also controls the temp sensors and the error LEDs. From what I see you have replaced everything else except the DMD and Digital Boards. My vote is the DMD.

Sep 18, 2009

- I am glad you are up and running and I was able to help a little.
Now enjoy it, you have certainly earned it.
God Bless,
Skyassoc
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