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Anonymous Posted on Sep 28, 2014

My Dometic 2852 will not cool in gas mode. The igniter continues to click despite a small blue flame in the burner. I have take the gas valve out and cleaned it and removed the orifice and cleaned it

My Dometic 2852 will not cool in gas mode. The igniter continues to click despite a small blue flame in the burner. I have take the gas valve out and cleaned it and removed the orifice and cleaned it as well. I also checked to see if I have sufficient gas flow through the hose and the solenoid is opening when the fridge is turned on/during start up. Help please...

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Red River RV Repair

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  • Posted on Sep 28, 2014
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If the igniter continues to click, that means that the control board is not sensing the flame through the igniter. You need to clean the igniter tip to make sure that there is not a build up of soot or corrosion. The tip of the igniter should be approximately 1/8" from the flame tube. The only way to determine "sufficient" gas flow would be to perform a manometer test to ensure that you have 10" - 14" water column. I would start with cleaning and adjusting the igniter so that it will not continue to try to ignite. If that does not stop the igniter from striking then you will need to replace the igniter. If it continues after you install a new igniter then you are more than likely experiencing board failure.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 51 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 07, 2008

SOURCE: FRIDGE WILL NOT IGNITE IN GAS MODE

The part you are looking for is the thermo couple. It senses the heat from the flame and holds the gas valve open. The clicking will try three times and then go into lock out. You then will need to reset on the front of the fridge. When installing the thermo couple do not over tighten.

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Anonymous

  • 93 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 15, 2009

SOURCE: Dometic rm 2652 fridge works on a/c. i get a check

you may need to change the thermocople this cost about 12 dollars this is what make electricity to epen the gas valve thanks from gilles

Anonymous

  • 122 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 07, 2009

SOURCE: Dometic RM2562 - No Flame

use a set of needle nose pliers & disconnect the igniter wire the module should start clicking if it does not click check the wires to the board clean them good & reconnect if the module still wont start clicking your board is bad if it does click the igniter adjustment off stick a nickle between the igniter & burner the gap should be the size of the nickle 3/16"

VtToolMan

Mark

  • 704 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 30, 2009

SOURCE: Dometic rv fridge runs fine on elec, lights on gas

It is key that all control switches are in the correct position, depending on what power source you are using, gas, electric, etc. If the switches are not in the proper setting, the unit will not operate.

Here's the manual for your fridge that should be printed out for your use and reference (and reading enjoyment). It has all the info needed to operate and troubleshoot it.

Typically, when using any gas appliance with a pilot light, the sensor has to first be hot enough to trigger it to allow the safety gas shutoff to open and allow the gas to flow to the pilot/burner. Follow the instructions and you should be all set.

http://gasrefrigeration.net/dom_techdata/2707_2811SM.PDF

Hope you find this helpful and best regards!

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Apr 24, 2010

SOURCE: 98 trailer with a Dometic RM2652 will not ignite on propane

Dometic DM 2652 just installed in travel trailer. Went to plug in and turn on later and discovered no lights or power? what do I start checking?

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There could be a few different reasons why your Kingavon mobile calor gas heater is not producing heat despite igniting. Here are some potential causes to check:
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Simple questions: Do you have LP gas in the tanks? Is the gas getting to the cook top, water heater and furnace? If not, check the main LP regulator. On the back of the refrigerator there is a small gas valve, is it open? Does the flame light but the igniter continue to click and then shut off? If it does you need to clean the igniter and make sure that the gap between the igniter and flame tube is set at approximately 1/8". If this is not the case you need to see if the gas valves are opening. When the refrigerator is turned on in gas mode, after a short pause you should hear the valves click and then the igniter will start its process. If you do not hear the valves click you will need to determine if they are getting power during that process. If they are not getting power then the circuit board is bad. If they are getting power but are not opening then the valves are bad.
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My gas cooktop is contiuing a clicking sound to start the gas burner. it is not the color of the flame or that stuff. Just the starter keeps trying to start. the gas burner that is all. Blair

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Does the clicking or spark stop with all knobs in off position? If so it's probably the one burner valve for the one you're trying to light ,stuck in light mode,sending signal to module.Have that burner valve replaced.($50). (2) If clicking continues even though everything is off, it could be any one of the burner valves or your ignition module is messed up .You would have to pull wire off each burner valve one by one to find the offending valve . If not valves then suspect ignition module.
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There is no pilot on this unit. It is electronic ignition.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
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Carrier furnace ,burner not staying on after 4th try shuts down completely.cleaned the flame sensor but noticed the 3rd and 4th burner has a delay in lighting by the time the 4th burner lights and hits the...

Remove them and scrub them with a wire brush.
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
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I have dometic modle R M 2333. It will not cool when set to gas. But is ok on AC. Burner flame is good, gas flow is good.

If the unit has a good flame and is staying lit throughout the cycle of the fridge, then you probably have a bad cooling unit. Does is cool ok on Electric? If so, then there is another problem. You may have rust build up in the flue that is not allowing the heat from the gas to work correctly. Try taking a screwdriver and small claw hammer. Remove the cover from the burner assembly and place the head of the screwdriver on the flue just above the burner. Tap the screwdriver lightly with the hammer and see if rust falls. If so, continue to do this until it stops. You then need to blow out the burner and try the fridge again.

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Once it unsticks it should operate OK.
If it does not unstick, replace the gas valve.
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