# 3 Cylinder is down was told it was the valve down. any clue anybody? how hard and how much is it to replace?

v6 engine not told,
let me guess that.
ok easy v6 means 3.7 L (226 cu in) magnum v6

I have 3.7L in my jeep.
mine is 2010
the service manual covers all this, buy it or rent it?

not told which bank needs offing/ left or right.
well all engine work here, is top down, and what you see in the way must come off
but not told the goal, ??remove the valve cover,you never said that.
just disconnect or remove to get to it( just touch the cover that?)
just use a hand stethoscope.(held to all places there)???????????

the service manual , this page, called rockers covers.
asks LEFT or RIGHT first ,so I toss the coin and land on left drivers side
USA left, is LHD driver. side

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove the resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
3. Disconnect injector connectors and unclip the injector harness.
4. Route injector harness in front of valve cover.
5. Disconnect the left side breather tube and remove the breather tube.
6. Remove the valve cover mounting bolts.
7. Remove valve cover and gasket.

now right.(called in USA LHD , passenger side)
RIGHT SIDE

1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
3. Drain cooling system, below the level of the heater hoses.
4. Remove accessory drive belt.
5. Remove air conditioning compressor retaining bolts and move compressor to the left.(tie it back gently) no hoses OFF !!!
6. Remove heater hoses.
7. Disconnect injector and ignition coil connectors.
8. Disconnect and remove positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
9. Remove oil fill tube.
10. Unclip injector and ignition coil harness and move away from valve cover.
11. Remove right rear breather tube and filter assembly.
12. Remove valve cover retaining bolts.
13. Remove valve cover and gasket.

this answer is for only removal
to just touch it , is between step 1 and what ever it takes to do you you never told yet.

or use youtube, how to remove cylinder heads, so see all steps
to where you want to be. (less sure)

double check the brake master cylinder and brake piston cylinder.

Obviously if you have the bad head off, you can compare the two. The extra .8 could be made up in piston stroke. So if the holes all line up, I would go for it as long as the two match in all aspects.

Did you replace the lines when doing all the work, the lines are the cheapest part of it all

engine check light should be on
check theses things
engine timing
idle control valve
TPS
crank angle sensor

Take the rotor off and check the ebrake. If the rotor is hard to get off then the ebrake is holding it on and is most likely your problem. It won't be your master cylinder or proportioning valve because it is only affecting one side. Any questions feel free to email me at [email protected]

Actually don't remember if the slave is on the outside of the transmission or is part of the throwout bearing on yours. It's easy to find out though...Just look on the drivers side of the bellhousing. If there is a line going to a cylinder there, then that can be replaced easily.If the line goes to another line that goes inside the bellhousing then the transmission needs to come down (big job). The slave has a bleed valve on it.Should be one for the internal unit as well, right next to the line going inside.. If the slave is leaking, often you can get the pedal back long enough to get it home. Check the back of the master cylinder, line and slave for signs of seepage. If fluid is low, re-fill it and open the valve and have someone step down on the clutch, then close the valve..repeat till you have some pedal.
if fluid is full, you may have a bypassing master..If so, replace it and bleed.

are they hard or soft to break at the pedal? or normal? if normal NO if soft/squishy YES if too hard... drain some fluid? or check master break cil.

short answer: only need to if there is something wrong.

IT IS LOCATED ON THE FRONT OF THE FRONT CYLINDER HEAD(BELT END) OF ENGINE..JUST ABOVE ALTERNATOR..2 BOLTS HOLD IT TO HEAD,A METAL TUBE COMES OFF IT..1 ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR..MORE LIKELY ELECTRICAL SIDE OF VALVE IS DEFECTIVE(SOLENOID)
..RECOMMEND REPLACING VALVE..ABOUT 120 BUCKS FROM DEALER..YOU WILL NEED A NEW TUBE GASKET AND NEED TO DISCONNECT BATTERY WHILE REPLACING..HAVE SEEN CODES RETURN EVEN REPLACING A DEFECTIVE VALVE..WAS A TECH TIP FROM CHRYSLER ENGINEERING..I HOPE THIS HELPS

No such thing as vacuum lines to the master cylinder. You do have a vacuum line on the brake booster (power assist). When you step on the pedal do you hear a whoosing sound down by your pedal. This is a leaking Booster. Needs replacement.

When you step on the brake does the engine rpm change. This is a leaking check valve (one way air valve).