Question about GE Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
In most cases it is the Defrost timer circuit. One of three things the Defrost time (most likely) it allows the cooling for a 6 to 10 hour period and the defrosting for 10 to 30 minutes to remove ice buildup, ICE BUILDUP is the main problem as it restrict air flow, the cooling air circulation through the system. You see cool air only comes in the freezer side and passes through vents (pass ways) to the refrigerator side. Ice buildup in the freezer side inhibits cooling air to the refrigerator side. You think the freezer is working, but it is only cooler because there is ice in there that you can't see. The Terminator (a LIMIT switch) opens the defrost circuit if the defrost heater gets too hot (second likely) the next is the Heater which heats for those 10 to 30 minutes to melt the ice buildup (least likely) no matter the Unit you have they all have this circuit... Hope this helps, I'm Tango
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
SOURCE: Refrigerator will not cool
Unplug power, pull refrigerator away from wall and gently remove and examine both sides of control board, Look for burn marks or smell of burns and then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
SOURCE: not cooling/freezing
Can you tell me more about your model GTS22IBMBRCC Are the lights on inside, are and fans running, do you hear any noise like clicking or the compressor trying to start. Is there a layer of Ice in the rear of the freezer? I can help just please respond with an answer, Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Aug 08, 2009
Remove the screw , on the left side of the control panel , and pull the panel , from the left side , outward to the right . You should now see , slightly to the right , from the middle , a black screw , a hole with slot , and slightly higher to the right , a hole with a white piece , with a hole in it . Now , the hole with the slot , turn with a screwdriver , until you hear/feel a louder click . Turn this slowly . When you hit the right click , the refrig will shut off . Remove the inside rear freezer panel ( and ice maker if equiped ) , by removing 3 or 4 screws , pop off the grill piece , and may have to twist the ice maker receptical slightly , to remove . If you do not see the heater on ( red ) , below the coils , then the heater is most likely the problem . pt # WR51x464 . Your old one , has a glass tube , but the new one , is calrod . I believe 2 screws hold this heater on .. If the glass heater does come on , then the problem is the defrost timer ( the piece you turned with the screwdriver ) which is removed , by removing that black screw and bending the panel out slightly . Pt # WR9X520 .
Posted on Nov 04, 2009
From what you are describing, you have a refrigerant leak. The freon has leaked from the system, The compressor will still run and evrything looks fine. To double check you will have to have someone hookup gauges to the system and verify that the charge is lost.
It may be possible to find and repair the leak. This is not always possible as some of the system is virtually inaccessible in many refrigerators.
Make sure if you do have someone repair the system that they evacuate the system very well and do a good vacum test before recharging the system.
This should help you to solve your problem.
Thanks for using Fixya!!
Posted on Nov 24, 2009
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