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hello tbrink. most likely your water pump is not running like it should resulting in it running hot. To test it do this: Get your car up to operating temperature, run the A/C. Once the temp is about 80-85 deg. Park it and let it sit idling with the A/c on for about 5 minutes, then turn the car off. let the car sit for about 5 minutes with the engine off. Then turn the ignition so that the temp gauge registers. You will probably see it spike to over 100 because the car has been sitting with a hot engine and no coolant flowing through to take away the heat. Note the temp, then start the engine. If the temp doesn't come down to normal within about a minute, then you probably have a bad pump. When functioning properly, as soon as the car is cranked the pump will move enough coolant through the head to drop the temp very quickly.
I would check the bearing on the fan motor .You can try to move blower back and forth and if it moves more than about 1/8 inch then you may need to replace the motor. Check the mounting bolts that hold squirrel cage in placeAlso check the bolt or set screw that holds blower to motor shaft to make sure it is not letting the blower move when the motor is running. I would clean the fan and motor as well as you can and oil motor if it has oil ports. Hope this helps you. Thanks
The blower is direct drive. What has happened most likely is the blower fan center hub has most likely cracked. That results in the fan tipping as it rotates and starts dragging on the Styro-foam ait ducting... or the rear condensor fan fails (very rare) and is dragging on the plastic air shroud.
To gain access to the blower fan you must remove the AC from its mounting by removing the center bottom earthquake mount and sliding the unit out of the outer chassis.
Unless you want to make a mess you should use a wet or dry vac and remove all of the water and debris from the chassis tray.
Set 2 blocks of wood equal size at least 18 inches long about 24 inches apart on the ground and rest the airconditioner on the wood.
To gain access to the blower fan you must remove the UPPER Styro-foam air shroud. This is accomplished by removing the 2 screws and bracket between the fan motor chassis bulkhead and the condenser air shroud. Some models also have 1 more screw and bracket on the top right front of the upper Styro-foam shroud.
Now check to see if the front blower fan teeters on the motor shaft or feels loose onthe motor shaft. (my bet is yes)
To change the blower you will need to follow the steps below.
You will have to remove the 4 screws in the condensor fan air shroud on the fan motor side of the condenser. Next you will need to remove the control box and disconnect both the compressor and the fan motor from the control assy. There are at least 3 screws in the control box enclosure and you must remove them all. One of the screws has the power ground attached to the chassis. MAKE A personalized DIAGRAM especially if there are terminals vs connector plugs. Also make sure to ground the run capacitor with a screw driver several times to remove any residual charge BEFORE removing termnals. (Diagram Capacitor also!) Then remove all of the screws for the air box chassis including the rear screw under the motor. There should be at least 5 screws on the rear bottom of air box metal chassis with one of them having the blower motor ground under the head. Remove the 4 screws on the sides (2 per side) of the air box chassis. WAIT... there are 4 more screws on the left side of the evaporator coils that need removed. 2 on the air shroud chassis and 2 on the evaporator assy. Then slide out the metal piece between the air shroud and the evaporator. NOW you can lift out the blower motor with both fans attached.
Removal of either fan is accomplished by squeezing the mounting clamp and sliding the fan off the motor shaft.
If you so any coil cleaning DO NOT spray the coils from an angle it will bend the coil fins. Spray straight on with a semi diffused spray pattern. It will take much longer than you would think to clean the coils.
could be seized fan motor, failed capacitor, faulty contactor, bad wiring. Turn the breaker off to the unit and try to spin the fan with a long screw driver or something similar but be careful not the bend the fan blade, If the fan will not move don't force it you need a new motor,If the fan spins freely move on open the cover and check the wiring but becareful the capacitor can still have a full charge and shock you even with power off. Other the that you will need a volt meter that can check volts, amps, and capacitors to futher test the unit I suggest calling a local HVAC contractor and having the unit repair and tuned up by have a tune up done you can recoup the cost of the repair with the energy savings from the tune up.
YOUR OUTDOOR FAN MOTOR SHOULD NEVER SHUT OFF IN THE AC MODE. IT IS SUPPOSED TO SHUT OFF IN THE HEAT MODE WHEN ITS IN DEFROST. IF THE UNIT IS RUNNING IN COOL AND THE OUTSIDE MOTOR QUITS ,THE COMPRESSOR WILL QUIT SOON AFTER. EITHER THE RUN CAPACITOR FOR THE FAN IS BAD OR THE FAN MOTOR ITSELF IS BAD, IF CAP IS GOOD THEN THE MOTOR IS At FAULT. THE OUTDOOR PRESSURE SWITCH CAN ALSO OPEN IF THE INDOOR FAN MOTOR FAILS IN HEAT OR THE FILTER IS PLUM NASTY in heat OR THE INDOOR COIL IS PLUGGED UP in heat.. THE PRESSURE SWITCH USUALLY TRIPS AT 400 TO 425 SO ITS WORKING CORRECTLY. YOU MAY BE CONFUSING THE ISSUE SAYING THAT THE AIR IS HOT AND COLD INSIDE. IT IS COLD WHEN AC IS RUNNING HOT WHEN HEAT PUMP IS RUNNING IN HEAT BUT ESSENTIALLY not cold or hot if compressor isn't running, but a lot of folks describe the lack of cold air as hot when the compressor isnt running. but it basically is warm or house air temp.you test the capacitor with a capacitor tester or take it to motor shop and let them test it. odds are its a 5 , 7.5 or a 10. it should test within 10 % of rated value . ask for a RESCUE brand replacement motor. they are great ,reversable etc.carefully oil and sand the motor shaft and note exactly where the blade was located in relation to the grill so you get it back just the same. usually they wire up black to a leg of 220 power. white to the other leg of 220 power. brown and brown with white stripe to the capacitor.you can also pull whole fan shroud assembly on some units and take whole thing to motor shop and let them test motor cap, replace and all you do is return to unit and connect two power leads,
This is nothing but an either or -or ! First, make the thermostat calls for cool, there are suppose to be 2- noise outside, the fan motor and the compressor (and if a old system,a humming noise which is the contactor coil which picks up the main 240-volts).. hurry up and take a stick or something and turn the fan blades, if it picks up speed and run, then its the capicator. If not then the fan motor is bad.! (BOTTOM LINE)!