Question about Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a A/C compressor (heat pump) that was working when de-installed 18 months. Unit was left ''charged'' and tubing was sealed. What are the chances this unti will still work if installed in a system and re-charged?

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

    Novelist:

    An expert who has written 50 answers of more than 400 characters.

  • Expert
  • 127 Answers

There should be no problem with the unit if it was removed correctly. How was the unit left charged? Not sure how they can remove the lines from the unit without losing it's charge. However, if the unit is reinstalled and properly charged, everything should work perfectly fine.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

How do I fix water leak from the Kenmore Coldspot side-by-side refrigerator


I would say or ask how is ur defrost timer working as this seems to indicate that ur build up of ice is more than normal hence u have more water build up that should usually be evaporating from the compressor heat and ur drain pan should not be so full. some other things to consider are below:
Freezer /fridge water/ice in fridge and or freezer

Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out.
Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor.
However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick.
Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also.
Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer.
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.

u can test the defrost timer as well













25682811-fvsmv4etqgwauuwz5eop31ms-5-0.jpg

25682811-fvsmv4etqgwauuwz5eop31ms-5-2.jpg

25682811-fvsmv4etqgwauuwz5eop31ms-5-5.jpg

May 06, 2015 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

For the last 4 months water has collected in and under produce bins where is freezes if not mopped up. I've tried pulling items away from shelf vents. Could a drain be clogged?


Freezer /fridge water/ice in fridge and or freezer

Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out.
Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor.
However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick.
Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also.
Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer.

Apr 21, 2015 | Samsung RF217ACRS Bottom Freezer French...

1 Answer

Water puddling under front/door. Still cold but cant find settings info and concerned seal has gone and housing will be damaged. Less than 6 months old


Freezer /fridge water/ice in fridge

Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out.
Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor.
However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick.
Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced.
Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer.

Mar 25, 2015 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a samsung refrigirator side by side with a bottom freezer door. It is leaking from the bottom of the right side of the freezer right of the free


Freezer /fridge water/ice in fridge and or freezer
Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out.
Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor.
However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick.
Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also.
Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then
Freezer /fridge water/ice in fridge and or freezer

Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out.
Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor.
However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick.
Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also.
Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then

Jul 15, 2014 | Samsung Refrigerators

2 Answers

What would cause hose from pump to tank on a porter cable pancake comressor get extremely hot when running


I too had noticed the heated compression rubber hose.. the older models for smaller united were made to last longer and used 1/4" copper tubing and flang fittings kence, less rubber seals to fail over the long run, although porta cable says the compressor has a three year limited warranty for this product.. Mine has started to leak just over a year and only used a few times maybe twice a month. So even ubder light duty this unit has failed not just the drain plug seal,, but internal seals inside the compressor. I have returned this ubit for a full refund. So to answer your question, "what would cause a rubber hose to get extremely hot" it is normal for all compression tubings and hoses to run hot to the touch when running long periods but it is also a problem when poor engineering and lack of quality components such as rubber seals fail and cause leaks and so causing excessive heat and internal damage to other seals under such extremes..May I suggest you contact porta cable and ask them about your trouble with the product and their three year limited warranty

Nov 18, 2011 | Porter Cable C2002 150 Psi 6 Gal...

1 Answer

I recently changed the alternador belt on a 2001 chevy metro lsi, afterwards whenever i start the car , there is this rattling noise and when i opened the hood to check , to the left of the alternador...


Water Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Metro
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Air cleaner
    • A/C compressor suction pipe bracket, if equipped
    • Loosen the water pump pulley bolts. Do not remove them at this time
    • Right side lower splash shield
    • A/C compressor drive belt
    • Lower alternator cover plate
    • Water pump/alternator drive belt
    • Crankshaft pulley
    • Water pump pulley
    • Timing belt
    • Dipstick tube
    • Upper alternator bracket from the water pump
    • Water pump and discard the gasket
    To install: Fig. 1: To ensure a tight seal, be sure gasket surfaces are properly prepared - Metro 7922z704.gif

  4. Clean the gasket mating surfaces thoroughly.
  5. Install or connect the following:
    • Water pump with new gasket. Torque the bolts to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
    • New rubber seals
    • Upper alternator adjusting bracket
    • Oil dipstick tube
    • Timing belt
    • Water pump and crankshaft pulleys. Leave the water pump pulley bolts hand-tight
    • Alternator drive belt
    • Lower alternator cover plate. Torque the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
    • A/C compressor drive belt, if equipped
    • Right side lower splash shield.
    • Torque the water pump pulley bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  6. Adjust the water pump drive belt tension and torque the alternator adjustment bolt to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
  7. Install or connect the following:
    • A/C compressor suction pipe bracket, if equipped
    • Air cleaner
    • Negative battery cable
  8. Refill the cooling system.
  9. Start the engine and check for leaks, repair if necessary.
Prizm 1.6L ENGINE
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Drain the engine coolant.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable and properly support the engine
    • Right side engine mount and support
    • Upper and middle timing belt covers
  4. If equipped with power steering remove the following components:
    • Front transmission mount
    • Radiator fan motor
    • Coolant reservoir
    • Upper radiator hose
  5. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor electrical connector from the dipstick tube
    • Dipstick tube
    • Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sending unit
    • Coolant inlet pipe
    • Water pump and discard the O-ring Fig. 2: Remove the coolant inlet pipe from the block, then the pump - Prizm 7922z705.gif
    To install:
  6. Install or connect the following:
    • New O-ring and Water pump. Torque the bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
    • Coolant hose to the pump
    • Coolant inlet pipe. Torque the fastener to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
    • Dipstick tube. Torque the bolt to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
    • ECT sending unit to the dipstick tube
    • Engine wire harness. Torque the bolt to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
    • Radiator fan. Torque the bolts to 52 inch lbs. (6 Nm).
    • Upper radiator hose
    • Coolant reservoir
    • Front transmission mount. Torque the bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm).
    • Upper and middle timing belt covers. Torque the bolts to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
    • Right side transmission mount and insulator. Torque the bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm).
    • Negative battery cable
  7. Fill the cooling system.
  8. Start the vehicle and check for leaks, repair if necessary.
1.8L ENGINE
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Drain the engine coolant.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Drive belt
    • Right side lower splash shield
    • Water pump and discard the O-ring
    To install:
  4. Install or connect the following:
    • New O-ring and water pump. Torque the bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
    • Right side lower splash shield
    • Drive belt
    • Negative battery cable
  5. Fill the cooling system.
  6. Start the vehicle and check for leaks, repair if necessary.
prev.gif next.gif

Jan 02, 2011 | Chevrolet Metro Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Air Leak From Pump Head on Porter Cable C2001 Pancake Compressor


The real question is where exactly is the leak coming from. Compressors have a pressure release valve designed to let the pressure off of the compressor motor so it can start when there is pressure in the tank. This valve is often the culprit and fairly easy to replace. You can order it direct from porter-cable online. Just in case double check the drain petcock sometimes these get worn and won't close completely and can easily be over looked when trouble shooting.

Jun 12, 2010 | Porter Cable 18 - Gauge Brad Nailer and...

1 Answer

How do i take off the old water pump on 1996 geo metro 4 cyl?


Removal & Installation
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove the air cleaner.
  4. Remove the suction pipe bracket for the A/C compressor, if equipped.
  5. Loosen but do not remove the 4 water pump pulley bolts.
  6. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  7. Remove the lower splash shield.
  8. Remove the A/C compressor drive belt, if equipped.
  9. Remove the alternator drive belt.
  10. Remove the crankshaft and water pump pulleys.
  11. Remove the timing belt.
  12. Remove the oil level dipstick and tube.
  13. Remove the alternator adjusting bracket from the water pump.
  14. Remove the water pump rubber seals.
  15. Remove the water pump mounting bolts and nuts and remove the water pump from the engine.


ae1b66e.gif
Water pump mounting location

  1. Clean the gasket mating surfaces thoroughly.
  2. Check the water pump by hand for smooth operation. If the pump does not operate smoothly or is noisy, replace it.
  3. Install the pump using a new gasket. Tighten the bolts to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
  4. Install new rubber seals.
  5. Install the upper alternator adjusting bracket and tighten the bolt to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
  6. Install the oil level dipstick and tube.
  7. Install the timing belt.
  8. Install the water pump and crankshaft pulleys. Leave the water pump pulley bolts hand-tight.
  9. Install the alternator drive belt.
  10. Install the lower alternator cover plate and tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  11. Install the A/C compressor drive belt, if equipped.
  12. Install the lower splash shield and lower the vehicle.
  13. Tighten the water pump pulley mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  14. Adjust the water pump drive belt tension and tighten the alternator adjustment bolt to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
  15. Install the suction pipe bracket for the A/C compressor, if equipped.
  16. Install the air cleaner.
  17. Refill the cooling system.
  18. Connect the negative battery cable.
  19. Start the engine and check for leaks.


83667f6.gif Water pump assembly showing rubber seal location


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the cooling system.

    CAUTION When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.

  3. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
  4. Loosen but do not remove the four coolant pump pulley bolts.
  5. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  6. Remove the lower splash shield.
  7. Remove the air conditioner compressor drive belt.
  8. Remove the lower alternator cover plate bolts, loosen the alternator adjusting bolt, and remove the drive belt.
  9. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
  10. Remove the coolant pump pulley.
  11. Remove the timing belt.
  12. Remove the oil level dipstick and guide tube.
  13. Remove the alternator adjusting bracket from the water pump.
  14. Remove the water pump rubber seals.
  15. Remove the water pump mounting bolts and nuts. Remove the water pump from the vehicle.
To install:
  1. Clean the gasket mating surfaces thoroughly.
  2. Check the water pump by hand for smooth operation. If the pump does not operate smoothly or is noisy, replace it.
  3. Install the pump using a new gasket. Tighten bolts to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
  4. Install new rubber seals.
  5. Install the upper alternator adjusting bracket and tighten bolt to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
  6. Install the oil level dipstick and guide tube.
  7. Install the timing belt.
  8. Install the water pump pulley and leave the bolts hand tight.
  9. Install the crankshaft pulley.
  10. Install the water pump/alternator drive belt.
  11. Install the lower alternator cover plate and tighten bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  12. Install the air conditioner compressor drive belt by releasing the tensioner pulley and installing belt.
  13. Install the lower splash shield and lower vehicle.
  14. Tighten water pump pulley mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  15. Adjust the water pump drive belt tension and tighten alternator adjustment bolt to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
  16. Install the air cleaner assembly.
  17. Refill the cooling system.
  18. Connect the negative battery cable.
  19. Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature. Check for leaks and refill cooling system as necessary.

Mar 06, 2010 | 1996 Geo Metro

1 Answer

Refridgerator/B-Freezer not cooling


System refrigerant must be recovered prior to any work done on replacing any part of the sealed system, Recovery unit required at about $750.00. After recovery the compressor lines must be disconnected by heating to a temperature above 1385°F, Torch required , cost about $350. The compressor electrical wires must be disconnected. The motor mounts must be disconnected by removing clips or bolts. The compressor can then be removed. The new compressor can now be installed and the mounts connected. The piping can be cleaned fluxed and re-soldered using a high temperature alloy such as #45 silver solder. #15 if the stub tubes of the compressor are copper. A new system filter/dryer must be installed. Electrical wires must be connected to the new compressor. A deep vacuum must be pulled on the system to remove and air , moisture and non-condensible gases for the internal system. Then you can charge the system by weight to the exact amount shown on the system name plate and the proper tyep of refrigerant.

So the answer is yes it is difficult and requires a good technician to be done properly.

If the unit is out of warranty it is not recommended that the compressor be replaced at you expense.

Jun 07, 2008 | Kenmore 73502 / 73504 / 73509 Bottom...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Heating & Cooling Logo

Related Topics:

41 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Heating & Cooling Experts

paulcarew

Level 3 Expert

2463 Answers

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8220 Answers

Donni Steen

Level 3 Expert

659 Answers

Are you a Heating and Cooling Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...