Question about Hobart AM14C-155 Dishwasher

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No heat on rinse cycle HOBART AM14C Dishwasher

CON 3 keeps banging away(on off on off)..no heat on rinse cycle sometimes, but when we do it drops off after first load...I am thinking element in the booster tank and or thermostat in booster tank. My inlet water at regulator is 120F..pressure on fill and rinse is at about 19. Changed board in control panel and float/thermometer in machine already as well. As per 2 Hobart service guys, but now thinking its booster tank problems. Unit seems to heat after long time between loads which makes me wonder how many elements in booster, maybe one not good and causing the contactor to open close repeatedly. Or bad thermostat that causes unit to not heat because it thinks its bad. Any help would be appreciated.

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  • tablesaw4 Jul 03, 2009

    I should also add that the rinse temp screw is fully adjusted (counterclockwise) and the wash time has been extended to 60 seconds and still nothing. Adjusted rinse temp screw since that was the board that was changed.

  • tablesaw4 Jul 03, 2009

    rinse temp screw is fully adjusted and wash time has been extended as well

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ITS MOST LIKELY A HATCO BSTR . IF THE TANK CAN BE SEEN ITS NOT HATCO.FIRST JUMP OUT T'STAT ON BSTR SO ITS ALWAYS CALLING FOR HEAT CK. ALL ELEMENTS FOR AMPERAGE. BE QUICK SO BSTR. DOES NOT OVERHEAT ON YOU.IS CONTACTOR STILL CHATTERING, IF NOT REPLACE OPER. T'STAT FOR BSTR

Posted on Jan 11, 2010

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3 Con, is the booster heat contactor. If it is chattering, the fault will be in the booster. There are a few different boosters in the AM14. can you post the ML number from the data plate, or describe if the booster is a square Hatco HCM-10, or a round stainless booster with a 13 kw multi wired element.. All boosters use a low water cut off circuit, a high limit thermostat and a control thermostat. The old Hatcobooster uses mechanicqal components, where the new rount tank uses probes and a control board. The board has 3 leds. red is calling for heat, yellow is open thermistor, and green is shorted thermistor.
AM14's had a variety of different control circuit voltages, ranging from 240/208/120 and 24 volt AC. Check the transformer secondary for correct output to controls, trace through circuit until voltage pulses. If new style, it could be just scaled up probes not reading water. Drain the tank with the power off before removing probes.

Posted on Aug 13, 2009

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