I have the broken part. I doubt that even Krazy Glue will fix it. The magnet holds the door closed, but barely. Is it hard to replace the lock mechanism? I realize that the weather stripping will have to be removed.
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If your oven has the control panel in the door, try this...
Open the top door and in the bottom right you'll find a flat cable that goes from the top door into the unit. It'll be just at the hinge.
Pull up on that cable and push it up into the top door. It will likely move just a little. Whilst holding that cable up into the top door look at the control panel and see if it begins behaving normally.
GE had a design problem with the connector on that ribbon cable that is inside the door with the control panel. There is no lock on the connector to hold the cable into the plug. It comes loose (just a little) and can give "probe light" error, "overtemp error" (on a cool oven), and any and all sorts of other unusual errors. The plug will even appear to be connected properly when only one or two terminals of the cable aren't making good contact.
It is poor design for a sliding card / cable configuration. The fix is to come up with a way of holding the cable into the plug. Since one or more connectors in the cable lose connection, some of the controls will be OK and others won't.
If you can "fix" the problem by wiggling that cable then you can have a repairman come out and rig something to hold the cable into the plug.
I took my double oven apart and used duct tape and it lasted a year. I used velcro and it seemed to work better. If it fails again I'm going to cut a couple of cable ties and glue them to the cable and plug to create a semi-permanent connection.
Check the fridge for out of level. Magnets on the weather-stripping hold the door closed. If there is something stuck on the seal, or too much weight in the door in an un-level fridge it will not make good contact. Try cleaning the rubber, and removing everything from the door after leveling. A good seal will stay closed even if the fridge is off.
clip on bottom of hinge is worn or broken had mine replaced. magnetic seals are not strong enough to hold the door closed on their own. Original problem was the magnets were too strong so the clip on the bottom hinge was added.
If you close any refrig door " fast " , the other will pop open . These magnetic door gaskets , are designed for lighter holding power now , than they used to be , due to children getting caught inside . I would suggest lowering the front legs slightly , so that when you let go of the door , it will close slowly on its own .
The lower hinge on each door
may have a door closing cam. It raises the door up ¼ inch when opening and this
assist in closing the door. If it’s wore out and doesn’t work the door may not
seal and the gasket can be damaged. Watch the operation of the door to see if
it rises up when opened.
Leave the door shut and let the magnetic gasket hold the
door in place. Put something between the bottom of the doorand the floor to hold it in case it slips.
Remove the bracket holding the pin and hinge assembly taking
note of order of removal of parts. Slide new cams on. You probably need two.
Had a similar problem with my Kenwood Fridge Freezer
If you're mechanically minded you could check if there's an opening and motorised flap (usually behind a cover) at the top of the fridge - Cold air from the freezer enters the fridge through this flap) The Sound you heard could have been the motor trying to open / close this flap. This flap can become frozen in the closed position - so cold air is unable to enter the fridge compartment) My fix was to thaw it with a hairdryer and reassemble. Another fix would be to empty the freezer and open the doors - it might take more than 24 hours but once completely defrosted if the flap is the issue it will have defrosted. Once plugged in again the door will open and cold air will start to flow into the fridge compartment. I had a quote for €195 for a call out / repair
I fixed it myself in an hour - Hope it works for you ...
The crushed ice sounds like the solenoid in the back of the freezer may be frozen and moving the mechanism (rod) even though you can move it by hand. Take a hair dryer and heat the area where the ice bin rod fits into in order to thaw the solenoid out. You can take the whole thing apart and put a little petrolium jelly on the shaft to keep it from freezing and sticking again if you have the tools.
The door alarm may be the door out of adjustment... hold the light switch down and see if that stops the alarm, if it does you can always glue an extension piece on the switch in order to reach the door again vice adjusting the door. Some of these models were very close to being out of adjustment and a few years of wear on the hinges could do that. I've even seen someone glue an extension on the door so it would press the switch better on closing.
As for the water leaking, is it continuous leak or say every 12 hours you notice a little bit of water? Continuous leak is likely a solenoid valve letting water by, small leak every 12 hours or so usually means the defrost drain line is clogged and the defrost water is not making it to the holding pan but leaking out the freezer compartment instead.