Question about KitchenAid KESC307 Electric Kitchen Range

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Kitchen Aid KESC307HBS6. When turning on the oven a message comes on. Saying to pull probe out and the oven dose not heater.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 833 Answers

SOURCE: kitchen aid stove problem

Peter,

First...be sure you cut power to the stove before you do anything. This is 220 volts and it can kill you. 220 Volts is based on two different lines of power coming to the stove, each of which is 110 volts...but opposite each other in phase. This may mean that some power to the stove is on and some is not. Let's go on.

I suspect a few things: First, the coil control for the burner is probably finished. What I also suspect is that it opened one of the two breakers (they are usually tied together in the panel and are either 40/50/60 amp units) causing some lights but no action.

What to do: Reset the breakers as a pair by turning them off and on. If one snaps off, you have a problem at the stove. If not,...which I doubt...you're in business.

Let's look at replacing the control. Shut the breakers. Now, take the burned control and remove it. Note the wiring positions if they are not on a plug. If they are terminals, tape the ends. Now, reset those breakers. If the other burners work, replace the control. Take the old one to the parts store. If it doesn't work, look around the burned area for broken wires. Repair and tape them up. Try again. Oh, and don't let anyone touch the stove while you're working with those breakers.

Posted on Dec 03, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kitchen Aid Double Convection Oven stopped during Self Cleaning

same thing happened to me yesterday took all day to figure it out was the themal fuse on the back of the oven the part number for my kitchen aid is 8300802 if you want the doors to unlock and reset the display you can take the leads off the fuse touch them together and the door will unlock however it is best to change the part took me 5 minutes once i knew what to look for
you have to remove the back panel and you will see the part with the number on it cost me 50 dollars but better than the 8o bucks to have a sevice guy come and do it next time i self clean i will pull the stove away from the wall to help keep it from ver heating

Posted on Apr 04, 2008

  • 338 Answers

SOURCE: Kitchen Aid oven does not get up to temp.

you can only calibrate the oven + or - 35 degrees. if you are over 35 degrees off you will need to ohm your temperature probe to see if you get about 1280 ohms if you do then you need to replace the clock control. if you ohm the temperature probe and you are off by more than 10% then you will need to replace the probe. in most cases both the control and probe would need to be replaced.

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

milten1
  • 1304 Answers

SOURCE: Display says "remove probe" but no probe is installed

you can try to throw the breaker give it a few minutes and then reset the breaker

Posted on Oct 03, 2009

fixyourboard
  • 310 Answers

SOURCE: Kitchen Aid KESC307 Electric Range oven shuts down unexpectedly

We've seen similar problems due to an intermittent failure in the control board. If you can have it removed we can likely repair it for you.

Best Regards,
Bruce
www.fixyourboard.com

Posted on Oct 13, 2009

Testimonial: "Prompt response and likely the solution although I have not experienced the problem again. "

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1 Answer

The probe light is on as well as the question remove probe or enter probe temp. This will not go away. We never used this option. We turned breaker off for 10minutes or longer... Pushed some buttons .


Make sure there is not food residue on the probe jack, it will ground the jack and make the control "think" the probe is in use. You can also send the control in to be refurbished... the solder joints on all of these machines are failing badly by now...

Oct 09, 2014 | KitchenAid Kitchen Aid KEBS277SBL Double...

Tip

Checking and Replacing an Oven Probe


As oven probes age, they can sometimes generate error codes on kitchen ranges and render them inoperative. The error code varies between models, but can be found with the technical documentation that comes with your range. Most manufacturers place a tech sheet somewhere along the back of the range, or inside the console for qualified technicians to use as a troubleshooting aid. Refer to this if an “F” code is displayed on your operator console. The probe may also exhibit other symptoms without generating an error code. You could have undesired heating results (too hot or too cold), or slow preheat times.

The location of the oven probe can vary on different models as well. It will be mounted on the back or side of the oven wall (usually in the upper right or upper left corner). If you suspect you have a bad oven probe, a resistance check can be performed to determine if the probe is good. To accomplish this, unplug the range and remove the back panel. There are still dangerous voltages present even when the oven is not on. There will be two heat insulated wires coming from the oven probe behind the oven. Disconnect the wires and perform a resistance reading across both wires at room temperature. If the probe is good, it should read around 1100-1200 ohms*. If the reading is too low (shorted) or too high (open), replace it. However, I would take a good look at the interconnecting wiring FIRST. If you have a connector plug on the oven probe, often the plug pins will oxidize and not make good contact. This gives false readings and can lead to erroneous error codes. Some manufacturers recommend cutting the connector plug off completely and hardwiring the leads together by using heat resistant ceramic wire lugs. This provides a more permanent and reliable connection. The lugs can be purchased at most hardware stores. A new oven probe roughly costs about $35 - $45 and can be found on line at several appliance parts websites. Higher end model prices may be more.

To replace the oven probe, simply remove the mounting screw from inside the oven cavity, disconnect the wires and pull the probe out. Insert the new probe by feeding the wires through the opening in the back of the oven first and out the back through the insulation (a long screwdriver can assist you in making a visible hole through the heat insulation to feed the wires easier). Once you have the wires through the back of the oven, reinsert the mounting screw and connect the wires leads together. Reinstall back panel.

*NOTE: Keep in mind resistance readings will be higher if the probe is hot. Make sure you check the temperature at room temperature.

I hope this information is helpful..

on Feb 12, 2008 | Maytag MER6772 Gemini Electric Kitchen...

2 Answers

Kitchen Aid Oven - Superba Selectra- receive


Hi,

Here is what Kitchen Aid says about F4:

F4 Meat probe shorted
1. Disconnect meat probe and measure probe resistance (78kω at 60° F [15.6° C],
37kω at 90° F [32.2° C]).
2. If resistance is not valid replace probe.
3. Insert probe and check for a firm connection between probe and jack (in oven cavity).
4. Check connection between jack and harness (in rear of oven).

It sounds like the probe jack may be bad or the wiring between the jack and the control board above.

May 10, 2010 | KitchenAid Architect Series KEMC308KSS...

1 Answer

Our Superba (what a joke) Model KEMS308 / KEMS378 has the exact same temperature probe problem where the plug where the probe is inserted is supposedly getting dirty BECAUSE THERE ISN'T A COVER OVER IT...


Common Problem, design defect allows moisture or corrosion on terminals, to cause this problem. Two ways of repairing this. 1: Plug probe in, hang probe out the door, input 160 degree probe temp, turn convection bake to 450 degrees and let it bake for a while. Turn unit off, unplug probe and test to see if the problem is resolved. If it is moisture, the high heat bakes out the moisture and resolves the issue. We have also had some luck with a hair dryer blowing on the probe receptacle to dry out the receptacle. 2: You can pull the entire unit out of the wal with the power off at the circuit breaker, remove the backing panel, and disconnect the wiring to the probe. Some units you have to remove a side panel instead. You won't be able to use the probe in the future if you do this, and you do have to insulate the wires terminals or plug. As always, if you don't know what you are doing with electricity, call a technician to do this repair, it is better to be safe. Also as an aside, I work on all brands of ovens and we find that the Kitchen Aid models have the fewest repairs and the greatest reliability, everybody has design defects and most of the other brands have deliberately built in these defects for faster replacement. The only advice on the Kitchen Aid units that I recommend is that when you do replace it that you buy a separate oven and seperate microwave oven. Most microwave ovens are only lasting 8 to 15 years before major repairs, yet the ovens last 30 to 40 years. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

Jan 03, 2010 | KitchenAid Architect® KEMS378S Electric...

1 Answer

Display says "remove probe" but no probe is installed


you can try to throw the breaker give it a few minutes and then reset the breaker

Oct 03, 2009 | Jenn-Air JES9860 Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Kitchen Aid oven does not get up to temp.


you can only calibrate the oven + or - 35 degrees. if you are over 35 degrees off you will need to ohm your temperature probe to see if you get about 1280 ohms if you do then you need to replace the clock control. if you ohm the temperature probe and you are off by more than 10% then you will need to replace the probe. in most cases both the control and probe would need to be replaced.

Feb 02, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Beeping


"F2" is an oven sensor error on an Amana. You will need to replace the oven temperature sensor and/or the Electronic Range Control (ERC) board. Replacement of the ERC is only necessary if the oven sensor checks out good. As oven probes age, they can sometimes generate error codes on kitchen ranges and render them inoperative. The error code varies between models, but can be found with the technical documentation that comes with your range. Most manufacturers place a tech sheet somewhere along the back of the range, or inside the console for qualified technicians to use as a troubleshooting aid. Refer to this if an “F” code is displayed on your operator console. The probe may also exhibit other symptoms without generating an error code. You could have undesired heating results (too or too cold), or slow preheat times.

The location of the oven probe can vary on different models as well. It will be mounted on the back or side of the oven wall (usually in the upper right or upper left corner). If you suspect you have a bad oven probe, a resistance check can be performed to determine if the probe is good. To accomplish this, unplug the range and remove the back panel. There are still dangerous voltages present even when the oven is not on. There will be two heat insulated wires coming from the oven probe behind the oven. Disconnect the wires and perform a resistance reading across both wires at room temperature. If the probe is good, it should read around 1100-1200 ohms*. If the reading is too low (shorted) or too high (open), replace it. However, I would take a good look at the interconnecting wiring FIRST. If you have a connector plug on the oven probe, often the plug pins will oxidize and not make good contact. This gives false readings and can lead to erroneous error codes. Some manufacturers recommend cutting the connector plug off completely and hardwiring the leads together by using heat resistant ceramic wire lugs. This provides a more permanent and reliable connection. The lugs can be purchased at most hardware stores. A new oven probe roughly costs about $35 - $45 and can be found on line at several appliance parts websites. Higher end model prices may be more.

To replace the oven probe, simply remove the mounting screw from inside the oven cavity and pull the probe out. Insert the new probe by feeding the wires through the opening in the back of the oven first and out the back through the insulation (a long screwdriver can assist you in making a visible hole through the heat insulation to feed the wires easier). Once you have the wires through the back of the oven, reinsert the mounting screw and connect the wires leads together. Reinstall back panel.

*NOTE: Keep in mind resistance readings will be higher if the probe is hot. Make sure you check the temperature at room temperature.

I hope this information is helpful.. Post back if you need further assistance.

Mar 24, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

2 Answers

GE GAS RANGE OVEN PROBLEM


two options.first does the pilot flame look good (a nice blue flame)?if so you will see a metal probe next to the pilot,use some sandpaper and clean that probe up.if that solves your problem so be it.second if the first thing doesnt work its probably the ignitor board not sensing the flame.the way to definitly tell the one or the other use a small torch and heat up the probe like i said and turn the oven on.if the main burner comes on then you know its the probe which is called a thermocouple and is cheap.hope this helps.

Aug 08, 2007 | GE JGBC20 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Oven will not work


Any codes? Most like the temperature sensor probe. I had to replace it after the self cleaning cycle. It had an F3 code.

Jan 01, 2007 | Jenn-Air JES9800A Electric Kitchen Range

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