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Anonymous Posted on Sep 20, 2014

My frigidaire mini fridge won't cool. Ice builds up on one of the wires on back and the cooling unit (I think) gets very hot

Ice forms on a copper wire and the cooling unit (I think) gets very hot

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Bear Paw Repair

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  • Posted on Sep 21, 2014
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It sounds like it could be a restricted Capillary tube, which would require a sealed system repair by a professional repair person. A new mini fridge might be the way to go.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1136 Answers
  • Posted on May 28, 2009

SOURCE: i have a CSX22GRB Hotpoint fridge and 1)the ice maker is not making ice 2)there is ice building up in the back of the freezer 3) the main fridge is not cooling

Hi, Id there ice or a frosty build up on the rear wall?
If it is ice, the drain is plugged. If it is frost, there is a self defrosting problem.
Please let me know so that I can assist you further.

Vic

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mgprice

Mike Price

  • 744 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 23, 2009

SOURCE: fridge/freezer cooling inefficiently

Either the repair guy did not wire up the heater correctly or he replaced the wrong part, if the heater was good it was likley to be the defrost thermostat...I would call the repair guy back to check.

joecoolvette

joecoolvette

  • 5660 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 05, 2009

SOURCE: Frigidaire model ftr18b freezer works, fridge is only cool

Info relating specifically to the Frigidaire FRT18B5ABB:

1.Refrigerator unplugged remove the bottom back panel. (Access cover with label. The rectangular shaped panel on the back, at the bottom) Place the screws in a container.
Also remove the Kickplate Grille in the front, and the defrost pan.

2.Use the wand tip on your vacuum cleaner, and vacuum this area out. Pay special attention to the condenser coils, and the fan. Use care as you don't want to bend the fan blades. After you have vacuumed up as much as possible, see if your vacuum has where you can attach the hose to blow air through it. An air compressor, hose, and air nozzle would be REAL handy right now! Blow the condenser coils, and all areas clean of any gunk. (Hair, spider webs, etc.) If this is not feasible for you, you'll need some sort of long, thin, dust 'bunny', and have to dislodge this 'gunk' physically. Then vacuum.

3.BE SURE to replace the bottom back panel, (Access Cover)! It is a VERY necessary item! If your fridge doesn't have one at present, make a temporary one of cardboard, and tape it on. This access cover is needed.

If your refrigerator side is only cool, and your freezer is cold, you may have a problem with the Cold Control, (Temperature Control), or the Defrost Timer. (Timer-Defrost)
http://disruptit.com/manualgateway.cfm?pdfwanting=34242&username=anon&AV=123345&I=99.169.118.45

mgprice

Mike Price

  • 744 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 17, 2009

SOURCE: the freezer element build up with ice and the

Hi, With the information you supplied I’m going to assume there is an ice build up at the rear of the freezer. Your problem is going to be with your defrost system. I will also assume you have the ability to repair this yourself.
This is going to be one of three problems with your refrigerator, 1st thing to do is remove shelf’s and panel in the back of the Freezer. You may see ice build up on the evaporator, don't worry get a hair dryer and melt the ice.
Next locate the wires for the defrost heater and using a multi-meter/ohms meter test the heater for continuity (it should read infinite) if the defrost heater is bad replace it.
This is what a typical defrost heater looks like:
6ddaaf7.jpg  
If the heater is good test the defrost thermostat. This should normally be done when the evaporator is still covered with ice since it will only activate at 40f - 50f depending on the thermostat. When tested with the ohms meter at below 40f it will read infinite. It is normally clipped to the upper right of the evaporator and look something like this:
4462625.jpg The next possible problem could be the defrost timer. If you have tested the heater and thermostat and they have tested good next find the defrost timer, If your refrigerator has a mechanical one it will either be located inside the control panel in the fridge or behind the panel below the doors. Once you have located it advance the dial until you hear a click. This will initiate the defrost cycle. If your heater begins to get hot this will tell you that your timer has stalled and needs to be replaced. A typical mechanical timer looks like this:
f218caf.jpg If your refrigerator has a digital defrost timer you should locate the tech sheet. Normally you can find this behind the panel under the doors. It will tell you how to initiate a manual defrost cycle. As before if the heater gets hot you will have to replace the mother board normally located behind a panel at the rear of your refrigerator.
If your fridge is warm and there is no build up of frost/ice on the back panel inside the freezer then you problem is most likely going to be the evaporator fan, have you heard the fan running in the past few hours? if you are not sure pull the panel out to where you can see fan and watch it over the space of an hour to see if it turns. If you don’t see it turning replace the motor. This is what a typical evaporator fan looks like:
a4183d8.png Hope this helps. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment again. If you decide to get a repair guy in should not cost you any more then $120 - $200 depending on make/model/problem Good luck & thanks for using Fixya! Mike

Testimonial: "UNFORTUNETLY THIS DID NOT PERTAIN TO MY MODEL SO I COULD NOT USE THE INFORMATION"

Anonymous

  • 316 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 01, 2010

SOURCE: Ice In Freezer Vents

thick frost on the back wall indicates a defrost problem, either with the defrost control, the heater, or the bimetal thermostat. Without personal inspection, i cant tell you which one it is, but i can narrow it down to those three

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1answer

Large Ice Build up on top inside back of fridge unit.

Could be the auto-defrost has stopped working. Most modern frost-free fridges have a heating element behind the liner where the cooling element is and the ice forms. Between the thermostat controlled periods of cooling the heating element should switch on for a short time to melt any ice that has formed and the resulting water forms into droplets that roll down the fridge liner until it is channelled into a drain leading to a tray mounted on the electric motor. The warmth from the motor evaporates the water and completes the maintenance-free frost-free system.

Possibilities are faulty wiring/connections, defrost timer, defrost element.

The defrost timer could be integral with the thermostat.

Some older fridges had a manual switch to start the defrost process.
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Thank you for your post, friend!

Please help me understand the question you are asking. Is the defrost timer not working? Is the fridge still not cooling? Or is the ice forming too often? With further information I look forward to assisting you. -Matt

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if it seems like the evaporator is getting cold then your sealed system should appear to be ok. you need the evap fan to transfer cold air into fresh food section. if not turning u need to replace fan motor. make sure your not getting to much frost build up on the evap.
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Either the repair guy did not wire up the heater correctly or he replaced the wrong part, if the heater was good it was likley to be the defrost thermostat...I would call the repair guy back to check.
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