My dryer seems to start and run just fine. It is only after it heats up that it runs for a few minutes longer and then shuts off. I tried unplugging it and then restarting it, but the same thing happens over and over again.
Replace The High Limit Disc.
SOURCE: Dryer runs & heats but shuts off after 3-10 minutes
the motor overload can caouse that problem in that case new motor is needed if the dryer turn right back on after it turns off the even heat control board in panel bad if it humms are no noise after turn off and you have to let cool down the motor is the problem
SOURCE: Dryer shuts off after a few minutes
THE KENMORE DRYER I HAVE... IF REN IN THE COTTON CYCLE IT WILL RUN FOR 50 MINUTES AND SHUT OFF. ITS BOLWING HOT AIR AND THE OTHER CYCLES SEEM TO WORK FINE WITH OUT SHUTING DOWN SO ID APPRECIATE A TIP ON WHAT THIS PROBLEM COULD BE
SOURCE: Dryer not turning off when clothes are dry (model LDE 400ACL)
Normally if you have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes
are dry, it will do it with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing
system. The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a "pre-set" temperature.
When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. If there is a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough. The timer advances until the interior cools, then the termostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again. This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But... if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix this problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork and make sure the vent is not compressed or kinked. If that doesn't work, then your thermostat, moisture sensor or timer could be the culprit.
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SOURCE: Kenmore Gas Dryer Gets Hot, Shuts Off Early in Cycle
Sounds like a faulty high limit or cycling thermostat. The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a certain temp. It should be mounted on the exhause duct inside the back of the dryer. It should look something like the one in the picture:
Hope this helped and best wishes.
SOURCE: my fisher and paykel model
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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