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Out side unit not working relay makes contact

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Do you have 220 volts coming in and out of the contactor

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

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Passenger side high beam not working


Hi Lee
Could be open contacts on the Relay.
A Relay is simply a set of contacts actuated by an electromagnet coil.
A relay can click but it doesn't mean the internal contacts are closing.
Is there one relay for left side and another for right?

Use a 12v test light or Multimeter on 12 volts to trace the power.


Look at the connectors on the base of the Relay.
Get a pin out diagram of that relay of the Internet.
2 pins for actuation. Gnd & +12v.
2 Switch contact pins.
Short the "contacts" switch pins together to simulate Relay closing its Contacts.
Is there Battery 12v at one of the relay socket "contacts" pins?

Use a jumper lead from Battery + to that relay wire.

Good luck

Feb 03, 2016 | 2006 Hyundai Sonata

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What can I troubleshoot to determine why my RV Rooftop Heatpump does not work on generator, only shore power?


There are a couple of possible causes:

1. There is a Front/Rear Switch somewhere in the unit, usually in the main salon or near the breaker box. This is most common if your generator is not large enough to run 2 units at the same time. It is not always labeled as such, sometimes it's just 1 or 2 and in others it's a set of breakers.

2. You have dropped a leg from the generator output. Normally the generator has 2 outputs, each feeding a separate circuit. This could be in the generator, the transfer switch or the breaker box. If you have issues with other 110v circuits, this would be a place to start.

3.

Mar 18, 2015 | Dometic Rooftop RV Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Keeps blowing 3 amp fuses when i turn the air conditioning on.


Ok, If 3 amp fuse is blowing in the air handler unit when switch is turned to cool check to see if outside unit jump starts and stops when this happens. If this is the case wiring is fine check main relay in outdoor unit. There will be a spring contact on main relay (Black relay close to where wires come into unit), check for corrosion or carbon build-up on little round contacts. If you can clean contacts with a small piece of sand paper. Make sure all breakers are off before removing cover! You might have to remove relay in order to clean it. Make sure you write down exact locations of any wires you remove. This should fix the problem.

Jun 20, 2012 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My refrigerator quit cooling, not making any noises just not cooling how do I test the relay on the side of the compressr


Hello and Welcome to FixYa!
The relay works on the principle that when voltage is connected and the relay is cool and under working condition, current passes through the relay to start winding. After a short time, current passing through the relays heats the resistor installed in the relay and causes increase in the relay resistance which causes blockage to the current through the relay and it trips (turns off the current to the compressor unit).
There are different techniques for different models to test the relay. Here is a general technique to check the working.
Physically you can observe the burn marks or burning smell from the component. If there is excessive burn smell or heat from the unit, the unit is faulty. Solid state relay plugs directly on compressor start and run terminals. Relay terminals 2 & 3 are connected within the relay. Run capacitor is connected to relay terminal 3. L2 side of 120 or 220 VAC power is connected to relay terminal 2. Locate these terminals. Please make sure that you have disconnected the refrigerator power. Remove the relay cover (if any) and disconnect the leads/jack. Check the resistance across 2 & 3 terminals. It should be less than or around 100 ohms or so( You get a proper reading ).If it shows 0ohm its short and if it shows infinite ohms its open... We'll there could be multiple reasons for which the refrigerator had quit cooling. Relay is one of that. You need to workout all the possibilities in order for the trouble free working of the unit.

Hope this is all you need to know,

Best of Luck,

Please do Rate the solution, As a token of appreciation,

Concerned.

Aug 11, 2010 | Frigidaire FRS26R4A Side by Side...

1 Answer

My central heating and air unit is blowing inside but nothing is turning outside; no cool air


The first thing I would check is the breaker/disconnect that feeds your outside unit with electricity. If it seems fine then i would check the electrical contact/relay that energizes the compressor. Low voltage from your thermostat is sent to a small coil in the contact/relay that is energized to pick up a set of contacts. These contacts allow the supply voltage to flow through them to turn on your compressor and fan. If your thermostat is in the on position, have an electrician use a meter to see if there is voltage on either/both sides of the contact. If it is only on the supply side, then you probably have a bad contact. Fairly inexpensive fix if you are a do-it-yourselfer. Also, make sure that your thermostat is sending out a signal to the contact. A meter will show you a low voltage signal if it is working.

Oct 07, 2009 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Honeywell rth221 wiring question


The unit has a relay that is opened and closed by the house thermostat. There should be a small brown covered wire... These go to the 'primary' side of the relay (the part that carries current through the relay coil).

One side of the secondary part of the relay (the part with the heavy contacts) are internally connected to the compressor and fan circuit. The other side, the one with the terminal screws, is for connection to the power lines. In a 220V circuit, it makes no difference which of the two wires you connect to which terminal.

The bare wire coming from your house wiring is to ground the unit (Usually a green screw). Hope this helps.

Aug 21, 2009 | Weather King 10AJA2501AH Air Conditioner

2 Answers

07 Canyon Blinker issue


When one side blinds faster than the other, the side than blinks faster means a light bulb burnt or not making contact. Are u sure the hazard light are the same with the blinkers

Jul 24, 2009 | 2007 GMC Canyon Crew

2 Answers

NEED CORRECT WIRING DIAGRAM FOR CAR ALARM WITH REMOTE STARTER MODEL NO:NT898SA. PROBLEM IS THERE ARE 4 RELAYS IN TOTAL 1 FOR CUT OUT/STARTER AND THE OTHER 3 FOR THE VARIOUS SEQUENCE REQUIRED TO START THE...


Relays are wired correctly (all except one) what you are doing is supplying the one side of the relay contacts with +12V and one side of the relay energising coils with +12V. the other side of the relay coils are switched on independantly by the -0V from the various outputs from the alarm unit. When relay coils are energised +12V is output through the relay contacts to ACC (accessories) IG1 & IG2 and ST (starter) in sequence. The problem with the cicuit seems to be the IG1 & IG2 relay this seems to just switch +12V between IG1 & IG2 one of them remains on all the time according to weather the relay is energised or not - this is not right. So I have wired the n/o contact of the relay to IG (1 or 2) wire which controls the ignition circuit - this is usually the last ignition wire before the starter wire on the ignition switch.

May 11, 2009 | Vehicle Parts & Accessories

1 Answer

Infinity Reference Amps stay illuminated


Hello shaymus_hoos,

No, it isn't supposed to work that way. Although amps are usually wired with the positive directly to the vehicle battery, they aren't supposed to turn on unless power is supplied on the remote wire.

The problem is most likely in either the head unit or one of the amps. And if not corrected, the amps will sooner or later, completely drain the battery.

First see if it works properly with just one amp connected. Remove the remote turn-on from 1 amp at a time and test with the vehicle and head unit off and then on. If the problem is still there with just one amp connected, either the head unit is at fault or the remote wire is picking up 12V somewhere along it's path to the amps. Make sure you have it connected to the right wire on the Kenwood. Every Kenwood I've seen uses blue/white for the remote wire.

If both amps work OK separately, one of the amps is causing the problem. You may be able to correct it by using a relay to electrically separate the turn-on signal for each amp. You'll need a "double-throw, single-throw" type of relay. Here's a link to the Basic Car Audio Electronics web site that details the connections http://www.bcae1.com/. Connect the remote wire coming from the head unit to one side of the relay coil and ground the other side. Bring 12V positive from an "accessory" lead that is hot only when the ignition is in either the "ON" or "ACCESSORY" positions to one side of both sets of relay contacts (it doesn't matter which side). Connect the other sides of the relay contacts, one to each amp turn-on connector.

Hope this helps.

Apr 22, 2009 | Infinity Reference 7541a Car Audio...

1 Answer

I have a Eureka Central Vac CV1601b. The motor does not stop unless the Unit is unplug from the electrical outlet. Any Idea?.I removed the control unit to check if there was disconnected wires or burnt...


If the unit is relay controlled, there is always the possibility that when the unit was turned on, the relay contacts welded themselves shut making the power button ineffective.

If you're familiar with relay pinouts, with the unit unplugged, verify the contact closures with an ohmmeter or continuity checker. With the unit unplugged, the relay contacts should be in their "normal" state (probably open).

Try gently tapping the relays to see if it can be freed that way. If that works, there's nothing stopping them from welding themselves together again. The relay may need replacement.

Cheers.

Mar 07, 2008 | Vacuums

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